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I hadn't seen those tow plates before.
Was defiantly going to make something for the rear diff mount when i changed my diff.
I'd actually drawn something up in CAD couple years ago, but never progressed any further....
Electric PS, is that to free up hp or to have a cleaner looking engine bay?
I was so looking forward to seeing you and your vette again at the Nationals @ Easter... ... damn Covid.
In fact i'm off work for 10 days in self isolation with it at the moment, head/back ache and score throat.
Yes it’s very disappointing that they have cancelled the Vette Nationals Alan. Would have been good to catch up again. Seems early to make the call but they did say they needed to pay deposits now so possibly it was financial.
the rear tow plate is from VanSteel and the front from Dave Howard here on the forum. He started with a plate that allows you to use a jack under the front crossmember then added tow hooks. Nicely made for sure.
As for electric power steering pumps the old Saginaw pump has always been a bit noisy and I thought I would do some more research after reading some good posts here about them. Also it was a bargain to buy locally so I grabbed it.
look after yourself, we have had friends and family members with it who have got very sick.
Got some time while watching TV to progress the Arduino project to control my thermo fans.
Was tired of taking the laptop to the car to watch the monitor to see what was happening so I spent $3.50 and got an OLED display to write to that show me what's going on.
The voltage is the reading on the factory temperature sender (sender varies resistance based on temperature that changes the voltage). The pwm is the speed I am sending to the fans. The second line just read out what is happening, like buttons being pressed etc.
Fun evening project.
Should have it in the car soon so I can work out the points to start the fans and how to speed them up based on temperature.
Its nice to no longer have the huge amp spike when the fans come on.
Code from Carl Buchbinder was a great starting point.
Yes I am very happy with it, gives a stock appearance but modern recovery operation. I was lucky to come across your thread from early 2021 by chance earlier this year. Perfect solution.
Another take on the trans pan and associated leaks.
I had a new cast aluminum pan that I fitted with a Moroso gasket.
Also replaced the shifter shaft seal again but this time sanded the shaft smooth and used some sealant around the metal to metal parts of the seal.
5 Days and no leaks yet.
I did have to do some severe compression on one of my exhaust pipe segments to get clearance for the pan. I will get that re-made in the next few weeks.
I've seen a couple of threads where guys have used oval exhaust tubing to gain a little ground clearance.
I wonder if it would work for you to gain some clearance between the pan and exhaust tube.
Ouch on the exhaust, but I bet the stiff pan eliminates the leaks at the pan to gasket interface and sealing up the metal to metal on the body of the seal to the case hopefully finished that off too. They usually mold some of the rubber to the outer (case sealing) face of the shaft seal, but it's often suspect whether or not it will seal, especially if it has been replaced more than once over the last 51 years. I love your attention to detail, it's often the little things that make the biggest difference in enjoying our hobby.
I looked at oval exhaust tube where the pipes come under the diff but we managed to tuck it up fairly well and my diff is a bit higher than normal with the delrin mounts.
The photos possibly make it look worse but I think he will be able to get the pipe in ok and still tuck it up.
have only had the pipes scrape once towards the diff.
I crushed the pipe way more than needed as I tried to compensate on the other side it ge it to align at the flanges.
Ouch on the exhaust, but I bet the stiff pan eliminates the leaks at the pan to gasket interface and sealing up the metal to metal on the body of the seal to the case hopefully finished that off too. They usually mold some of the rubber to the outer (case sealing) face of the shaft seal, but it's often suspect whether or not it will seal, especially if it has been replaced more than once over the last 51 years. I love your attention to detail, it's often the little things that make the biggest difference in enjoying our hobby.
Thanks, yes I had a real good look this time and it appeared it was not the rubber shaft seal as the main culprit but the metal to metal outer edge. I smoothed all surfaces of burrs and hopefully the sealer will help. Time will tell