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Very impressed with the progress on the glass on the back end. Looking good! What tool are you using to feather? An angle grinder? Dremmel?
In case you were curious the Active Duty medical care isn't much better! I once waited three months for an appointment for a chiropractor. He sat down with me and looked at my chart and set another appointment for another 3 months later I guess I didn't need it.
Keep your chin up, no sense letting those VA folks get you down.
Very impressed with the progress on the glass on the back end. Looking good! What tool are you using to feather? An angle grinder? Dremmel?
In case you were curious the Active Duty medical care isn't much better! I once waited three months for an appointment for a chiropractor. He sat down with me and looked at my chart and set another appointment for another 3 months later I guess I didn't need it.
Keep your chin up, no sense letting those VA folks get you down.
The VA now has this rule that if they can't get you in within 30 days they farm you out to a private practice, I'm waiting on the VA to tell me what eye doctor they're sending me to, that could take a month or so just to tell me
I go to the VA once a year for there required annual physical. About all they do is check to see if your still warm and refill prescriptions. Takes about 5 minutes. Not happy with VA care for us veterans. If I had a welfare card I would be better off.
I go to the VA once a year for there required annual physical. About all they do is check to see if your still warm and refill prescriptions. Takes about 5 minutes. Not happy with VA care for us veterans. If I had a welfare card I would be better off.
Can't argue with that! I let them take care of things like vision, my sleep apneia, and the once a year physical that yes does take all of about 5 minutes if you don't count the blood work. I keep my private doc because I get better care and the prescriptions that I like. I will have to use VA exclusively once I retire in about 5 years...
That didn't take long......only a 3 hour exam......
4 different doctors examined my right eye (but Doc(s)...my right eye doesn't bother me!)
Now they say I need another "headshot"/MRI
(Focus on the garage....Focus!)
I might have to change my Signature to "Lab Rat for the V.A."
Sorry to here about your VA medical problems. My VA here is great and they always take great care of me .If fact I would not be alive if it were not for them .The Veterans have taken very good care of me and my family for years ,I get almost $40K tax free a year plus all my daughters collage is paid for plus she gets$1k a month for living expense .Every time I go I get a survey in the mail to ask how the visit went. Hope yours get's better
Very impressed with the progress on the glass on the back end. Looking good! What tool are you using to feather? An angle grinder? Dremmel?
Rookie answer:
I think the rule is to cut/grind a "V" into the edges....but I wanted more area to bond using strips of fiberglass cloth, so I used a 90* hand-size angle grinder with a 1.5" diameter 60 grit sanding disc to get the "valley" width I wanted (rookie here).......in other words I'm doing a rookie-double-bond-underside-top-side to make this as strong as possible and also to get the void as close to "level" as possible/then use the Eastwood Filler to finish leveling the low spots so the repair is "even with the deck".
Originally Posted by Priya
Ewww
EWWWWWWWWWWWW?
Now Priya.......you don't eat the slug(bullet) that's inside the moose.......BUT CHA EAT DA MOOSE!
Back to the garage.................................. .
Last edited by doorgunner; Feb 2, 2016 at 12:16 PM.
I finally put the FINAL layer of fiberglass/4 layers of woven cloth. It's not "pretty"/matter of fact---it's uuuugly.....but it's stout.......
Passenger side...........
Underside of deck...........
Driver side............
This is the filler DUB recommended once I have all the fiberglass repair done....................
That's the right stuff Tony. Take and mix a little and try it somewhere. You can actually start sanding it pretty quickly. Experiment with the time. Once this stuff cures, like the next day it is very hard and you won't like sanding it much. Also try to put it on as smooth as you can keeping the edges very thin. You can do it!!!
R
That's the right stuff Tony. Take and mix a little and try it somewhere. You can actually start sanding it pretty quickly. Experiment with the time. Once this stuff cures, like the next day it is very hard and you won't like sanding it much. Also try to put it on as smooth as you can keeping the edges very thin. You can do it!!!
R
I learned that lesson the HARD way LOL! DON'T GO LOOKING FOR SANDPAPER ONCE THE FILLER IS APPLIED!!!
I learned that lesson the HARD way LOL! DON'T GO LOOKING FOR SANDPAPER ONCE THE FILLER IS APPLIED!!!
Depending on how hot it is by you currently...you can have short time before you have to get in on this VPA and begin to sand it to get it where you want it. If the body and VPA is cold....you will have some time.
Stir it VERY WELL.... MIX IT VERY WELL by mashing it out on your mixing board VERY WELL to get the possible air bubbles out of it....just in case you do not know this.
If you have not 'played' with it. One thing I can add is that when you go in with your sandpaper and IF the VPA is still too soft....and plugs/clogs up your sandpaper and DOES NOT come out of your sandpaper when you smack the paper to clean it out. Give the VPA a minute or two ( depending once again on how hot is it there)an try again. You WILL KNOW it is time to go 'buck wild' sanding when you sand on it and you can pop the sandpaper with a paint stick or what ever method you choose so the sanding residue comes out of the paper. THAT is when you want to get it to where you feel good about the repair and then stop and use a different grit of paper.
Keep in mind that 36 grit sandpaper will leave a good scratch when the VPA is still soft...BUT.... the next day...if you sand on it with 36 grit it will leave an entirely different type of scratch in the VPA....the same goes for 80 grit.
I see what you mean since I am doing the underside first to get a little experience. As I was roughing up all the fiberglass that I applied previously I also now understand about bubbles, and why you make apprentices remove the fiberglass from some of their repairs.......I thought I did a good job of flattening out the cloth, but I found several bubbles about the size of a dime when I hit the area with 60 grit discs on an angle grinder.
I also can only mix two ounces of resin at a time to work with because of inexperience.
I really made some work for myself when I had to heat/grind/scrape/gouge out the 10 lbs. (no exaggeration ) of "stuff" piled up all the way across the underside of the deck and quarterpanels 2" thick in some places/1" thick in most places (no exaggeration).....as you can see from the pics how jagged the deck area was with the light shining through the new fiberglass repair.
I am going to read again your advice on fiberglass repairs that can be SEEN.......I see now I can't be as sloppy with the resin dripping everywhere across the deck surface as I begin adding fiberglass cloth to the valley I cut.
As for the filler.....I'll re-read your advice in the Paint/Body Forum....but it will probably be next week before I use the filler.
I was looking at my pics to help me decide the next step (bad idea)......I found a big problem........the sides of the cargo area are not centered between the frame rails/matter of fact---the cargo wall on the passenger side is about 5/8" from the frame rail.......the cargo wall on the driver side is about 1 & 1/2" from the driver side frame rail.....the passenger side of the body is also higher than the driver side when measuring at the wheel wells.......NOT GOOD BUT FIXABLE .........................
I knew that the #8(?) body mount was rusted away/bolt gone.....the #7 mount must be missing also for the rear of the body to be offset so much (the rest of the mounts must be rusted through also).
I HAVE to reposition the body "square" in the frame so I can install the cargo area extension that I made.
Please give me an idea of how to accomplish the above (I will replace all the body mounts after the rear modifications are complete/should have noticed-replaced the mounts FIRST)
Last edited by doorgunner; Feb 3, 2016 at 01:50 AM.
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.
I guess I didn't need it. 
