[QUOTE=MsVetteMan]
Basically I now have to pull the head on the pass. side and report my findings. Asked the ole boy about "my time", and he said the do not warranty labor on self installs. If a shop with certified mechanics had put the motor in, then they would. [QUOTE]

Thats a croc of SSSSHHHit! Every engine manufacturer I have ever dealt with offers a flat rate for your time to remove and install a replacement engine. They are going too far having you do all this disassembly in your car so they can figure out IF they made a mistake. I would tell them that you will take it out and send it back to them freight collect so they can do their own troubleshooting and them file a claim at the local court house for reimbursment of your time and cost of the engine. Warranty of an engine cannot be restricted to professional installations only or they would not be able to offer a warranty to a private individual when they sell it to them.

 

The only problem with taking them to court is that you have to file the suit in the county where the transaction took place and that would be where the vendor is not where you live.
Don't ask me how I know trust me on this one.

Kona

 

This is true unless they are incorporated in your state, registered to do business in your state, or have their principle office in your state.

 

Did you notice any silicone gasket/sealer around the water passages ?

Whenever I install an intake I put a bead of RTV ( usually black ) around the water passages to prevent water from getting into the motor

 

I think this is a wise move. You don't want to be a chump but keeping it civil is a better place to be.. for now anyways. I would suggest only applying preasure if you need to. Give them the opportunity to do the right thing first. Your time hasvalue, no question BUT pulling a head is less time than going through the courts.

My .02 anyways

 

remember Clarence is not the last word...i'm sure he has a boss....

 

Udate.....Heads off.....

No gasket damage. But.....top of piston in #6 is broken off on the edge. Pics coming soon, but that still doesn't explain the water??

Now I'm really getting pizzed.....

Be back shortly with pics

 

It had to be pouring from a fairly large hole to produce that tapioca pudding in there. Broken ring land? Maybe from the lack of lubrication with water in there instead of oil?

 

It's a shame when something like this happens, to both the buyer and seller. It's somewhat safe to assume the engine builder did not intentionally send a bad engine. Its also safe to say the user didn't do anything wrong. Try and work things out; however, take the necessary precautions to protect your butt. If you paid by credit card, call the credit card company and see what steps are involved to file a complaint for a refund and what the time lines are. Sometimes a merchant will try to be helpful and stall knowing the funds may be removed from their account. After the date to file a complaint has passed for a credit card refund, they'll much more resistant to make things right if the money is coming out of their pocket.

Looking at their perspective. They more than likely think of themselves as a bonafide business and not trying to push faulty product on a customer. They build an engine and run it on a dyno. Everything is fine to their knowledge. Shortly after the end user puts the engine in an unusal problem occurs. They naturally think the end user has created the problem. They more than likely know they will have to eat some if not most of the repairs even though they feel the product was fine when if was boxed up. Once they feel the end user did not create the problem they should be more willing to take care of the mess and make things right.

By now, they should have given instructions on how to minimize any further damage to the engine. I would think the first thing is to clean up the milkshake fluid. Perhaps kerosene/Marvle Mystry Oil would clean it, drain it, change filter, fill with fresh oil, and pump fresh oil through with an oil primer. Do another oil change and prime before putting it back together.

 

this article actually gives the cleaning protocol

http://www.practicingoilanalysis.com...up=OilAnalysis

Procedure for Cleaning Glycol from Engines
A flushing procedure proposed by one major oil company to remove glycol from engine internal surfaces involves the use of Butoxy-Ethanol (trade name Butyl Cellosolve, Union Carbide). The flushing procedure for conditions of less than five percent glycol contamination is summarized below:

1. Drain oil from compartment and all lines and components.

2. Install new filter elements.

3. Mix an ISO VG 32 R&O mineral oil 50/50 with Butyl Cellosolve.

4. Use the mixture to turbulently flush (using an external pump installed at the turbocharger supply line or other suitable pumping method) internal surfaces by ample flow and volume for one hour at a temperature not less than 70°F (21°C).

5. Drain the system completely, mop out crankcase and replace filters.

6. Repeat steps 2 through 5, using a 60 percent R&O 32, 40 percent kerosene mixture.

7. Remove and inspect all main bearings, journals and other engine surfaces.

8. Remove the external pump and recharge with the correct lubricant. Replace the filter.

9. Monitor the engine carefully until all conditions stabilize.

 

Top of the piston is broken off???

 

ouch that sounds bad but how could that have happened on a brand new engine?

 

You can't leave us hanging like that.....get someone a camera and have them just take pictures and post about once an hour

 

the top ring land broke usually a sign of detonation, chan ces are the cylinder wall is cracked in that cylinder.

 

Ouch!

 

Piston ring is still intact, I can see it, but it doesn't show in the pic. The water port between the 8 and 8 cylinders has water/oil mix, while the others do not.

Pic of piston top....



More pics coming, having problems upload

 

The ring land is the area of the piston between the top ring and the top of the piston. From your description, you have a broken ring land.

 

Rut Row......good think I still have my 350 block. Looks like I may eat this puppy. To be honest, the damn uncapped headers were so loud, I couldn't hear if was detonating or not.....

Dayum.....

 

I think its on you now....

Sorry but there is no way in hell that did not overheat. Either that or you ****ed timing up real bad and it detonated, but theres no way it would detonate bad enough to crack a piston at idle on an N/A(****, even an FI) engine. You didnt notice a huge chunk of piston shoot out the headers after it bent your valves to ****?

Im gonna have some ***** and say its your fault. Sorry.

 

See pic I added above.