Borgeson Steering Install
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 845
Likes: 54
From: Bangor, Northern Ireland
hi, guys, great thread, thanks
Nearly finished doing this conversion, 2 points
- centering the steering, i'd like to know how others have done it ( see if it's similar to how i did it)
- hoses, the two connections on the steering box are the same size, which one goes to the push on connector on the pump and which one goes to the threaded connector on the pump? and do i need to use the brass inserts?
thanks!
Nearly finished doing this conversion, 2 points
- centering the steering, i'd like to know how others have done it ( see if it's similar to how i did it)
- hoses, the two connections on the steering box are the same size, which one goes to the push on connector on the pump and which one goes to the threaded connector on the pump? and do i need to use the brass inserts?
thanks!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 845
Likes: 54
From: Bangor, Northern Ireland
hi, guys, great thread, thanks
Nearly finished doing this conversion, 2 points
- centering the steering, i'd like to know how others have done it ( see if it's similar to how i did it)
- hoses, the two connections on the steering box are the same size, which one goes to the push on connector on the pump and which one goes to the threaded connector on the pump? and do i need to use the brass inserts?
thanks!
Nearly finished doing this conversion, 2 points
- centering the steering, i'd like to know how others have done it ( see if it's similar to how i did it)
- hoses, the two connections on the steering box are the same size, which one goes to the push on connector on the pump and which one goes to the threaded connector on the pump? and do i need to use the brass inserts?
thanks!
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,100
Likes: 3
From: belle plaine ks
there is an answer to your problem
Perfect pics!!!!
I´m a bit sad because I also want to drive this box, because when I looked in my eninge bay to see how much space between stock steering box and my Headman header is, I saw there is no further space
That sucks! 
Have you any idea what I can do? I don´t want do mold the headers. Here a pic:
Thanks, Günther
I´m a bit sad because I also want to drive this box, because when I looked in my eninge bay to see how much space between stock steering box and my Headman header is, I saw there is no further space
That sucks! Have you any idea what I can do? I don´t want do mold the headers. Here a pic:
Thanks, Günther
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 779
Likes: 1
From: Minneapolis MN
Got my Borgeson box and hydroboost installed. All I can really say is WOW!
The only remaining issue:
There seems to be no way my pitman arm is going on the Borgeson box shaft as far as it should (as far as it did on the old box). I have it on far enough that I have about 1 thread showing out the nut, but that is without the split washer. I can't see any way that I could tighten it down another 1/2" that would be required for the split washer to go on as well.
Anyone run into this?
The only remaining issue:
There seems to be no way my pitman arm is going on the Borgeson box shaft as far as it should (as far as it did on the old box). I have it on far enough that I have about 1 thread showing out the nut, but that is without the split washer. I can't see any way that I could tighten it down another 1/2" that would be required for the split washer to go on as well.
Anyone run into this?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 971
Likes: 45
From: Middlesex NJ
Got my Borgeson box and hydroboost installed. All I can really say is WOW!
The only remaining issue:
There seems to be no way my pitman arm is going on the Borgeson box shaft as far as it should (as far as it did on the old box). I have it on far enough that I have about 1 thread showing out the nut, but that is without the split washer. I can't see any way that I could tighten it down another 1/2" that would be required for the split washer to go on as well.
Anyone run into this?
The only remaining issue:
There seems to be no way my pitman arm is going on the Borgeson box shaft as far as it should (as far as it did on the old box). I have it on far enough that I have about 1 thread showing out the nut, but that is without the split washer. I can't see any way that I could tighten it down another 1/2" that would be required for the split washer to go on as well.
Anyone run into this?
I had to send my box back for a different issue and the new box I got fits the pitman arm perfectly. The pitman arm slid right on. The old box was a struggle just to get the pitman arm started on the shaft. Also my old box was a real pain to center. my drivers tie rods wound up being around 14"'s long and the passengerside was about 16"'s (center of zerk to center of zerk).
The new box is dead on center with both tierods being right about 15 1/2"'s long zerk to zerk (not aligned yet) with the dimpled end of the servo input shaft pointing directly at the engine.
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Banned Scam/Spammer
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 518
Likes: 0
From: Oldsmar FL
Got my Borgeson box and hydroboost installed. All I can really say is WOW!
The only remaining issue:
There seems to be no way my pitman arm is going on the Borgeson box shaft as far as it should (as far as it did on the old box). I have it on far enough that I have about 1 thread showing out the nut, but that is without the split washer. I can't see any way that I could tighten it down another 1/2" that would be required for the split washer to go on as well.
Anyone run into this?
The only remaining issue:
There seems to be no way my pitman arm is going on the Borgeson box shaft as far as it should (as far as it did on the old box). I have it on far enough that I have about 1 thread showing out the nut, but that is without the split washer. I can't see any way that I could tighten it down another 1/2" that would be required for the split washer to go on as well.
Anyone run into this?
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,681
Likes: 200
From: Waterford Mi
Thanks for the information you have placed here. I am ready to install one on my 73. I need some help to figure out how to push the column shaft up. I placed a piece of aluminum on the face and tried hitting it with my BFH but it does not want to move. I tried to press it with a bottle jack but that only wanted to push in the fire wall.
I have cleaned/sanded the rust off the shaft and sprayed it with PB Blaster. Hopefully that will help loosen it up some.
I need to move it about 2.375" based on the measuring I did.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I have cleaned/sanded the rust off the shaft and sprayed it with PB Blaster. Hopefully that will help loosen it up some.
I need to move it about 2.375" based on the measuring I did.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 4,270
Likes: 20
From: Central Michigan
Thanks for the information you have placed here. I am ready to install one on my 73. I need some help to figure out how to push the column shaft up. I placed a piece of aluminum on the face and tried hitting it with my BFH but it does not want to move. I tried to press it with a bottle jack but that only wanted to push in the fire wall.
I have cleaned/sanded the rust off the shaft and sprayed it with PB Blaster. Hopefully that will help loosen it up some.
I need to move it about 2.375" based on the measuring I did.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I have cleaned/sanded the rust off the shaft and sprayed it with PB Blaster. Hopefully that will help loosen it up some.
I need to move it about 2.375" based on the measuring I did.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,681
Likes: 200
From: Waterford Mi
I ended up pulling the steering column.
Once I installed the gear box I took the rag joint apart and installed the piece to the steering shaft. It did not want to slide on easy.
I then install the column and hoses. It would have been easier if I wasn't doing this by myself but I got it done.
Thanks for all the good information. It help a lot.
Once I installed the gear box I took the rag joint apart and installed the piece to the steering shaft. It did not want to slide on easy.
I then install the column and hoses. It would have been easier if I wasn't doing this by myself but I got it done.
Thanks for all the good information. It help a lot.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 4,270
Likes: 20
From: Central Michigan
I ended up pulling the steering column.
Once I installed the gear box I took the rag joint apart and installed the piece to the steering shaft. It did not want to slide on easy.
I then install the column and hoses. It would have been easier if I wasn't doing this by myself but I got it done.
Thanks for all the good information. It help a lot.
Once I installed the gear box I took the rag joint apart and installed the piece to the steering shaft. It did not want to slide on easy.
I then install the column and hoses. It would have been easier if I wasn't doing this by myself but I got it done.
Thanks for all the good information. It help a lot.
I had my column apart during the resto, so my steering column contracted without too much effortWhere is Waterford? My family is in the Clio-Montrose area, my 68 is from that area as well
This is about the only part of the install that isn't plug and play...that and header clearance can be an issue
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
From: Sugar Land TX
I installed the Borgeson today. I am running a 383 with Hooker Super Comps. This is what I learned.
Remove master cylinder, makes install alot easier. The column is a non issue, hammer with a block of wood-job done. Measure twice, hammer a couple of times. I also had to cut the black plastic piece about an inch and a half to get steering column and rag joint coupled.
I had plenty of clearance with headers, did not have to take left side off.
Unlike others I have seen on the forum, nut on pitman seated well on new box. Only concern I had was clearance on drag link and 7 qt oil pan. Did a little work on drag link to get it to clear. PM me if you have the same issue.
Hoses are stiff, this is where MC removal helped the most.
Cant wait for remainder of front end parts to get in so I can check out steering response. Next weekend cant come soon enough.
Remove master cylinder, makes install alot easier. The column is a non issue, hammer with a block of wood-job done. Measure twice, hammer a couple of times. I also had to cut the black plastic piece about an inch and a half to get steering column and rag joint coupled.
I had plenty of clearance with headers, did not have to take left side off.
Unlike others I have seen on the forum, nut on pitman seated well on new box. Only concern I had was clearance on drag link and 7 qt oil pan. Did a little work on drag link to get it to clear. PM me if you have the same issue.
Hoses are stiff, this is where MC removal helped the most.
Cant wait for remainder of front end parts to get in so I can check out steering response. Next weekend cant come soon enough.
Pro
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 744
Likes: 19
From: Salzburg Austria
Let us know how you like the box!
As I looked at you avantar I was afraid! For the first watch your car lookes like mine, but on the second watch I could see that yours is a convertible
Regards, Günther
As I looked at you avantar I was afraid! For the first watch your car lookes like mine, but on the second watch I could see that yours is a convertible
Regards, Günther
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,681
Likes: 200
From: Waterford Mi
The nut on mine seated properly also. The biggest issue I had was getting the steering wheel lined up correctly. It would have been a lot easier if I had someone help hold the column up in place while I was under the car to attach the rag joint. I must have taken the column in and out at least 4 times. The part of the rag joint that attaches to the column will fit through the firewall opening but it is tight. It would not slip easily on to the shaft from under the car. I did not have to cut anything off for mine to fit, My 73 column does not look like yours.
he is my install page on the project.
he is my install page on the project.
Last edited by redwingvette; Oct 31, 2011 at 05:30 PM.
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 113
Likes: 5
From: Dwingeloo Netherlands
I have seen this comment a number of times, and fail to see, why Borgeson supplies 3000 PSI working pressure hoses, while the actual pressures in the Corvette are around the 1000PSI.
In addition to that the return hose is also a high pressure hose, while a simple single braided textile hose would be more than enough, and very much easier to install; a 90* elbow with the correct metric thread is available for just a few $$.
That is the way I am going: I'll get all the parts separately, including the hoses, purchased locally, as a flexible set of hoses makes things a lot easier, as I have read a number of times.
So, I am going the "Jeep way"
Cor
In addition to that the return hose is also a high pressure hose, while a simple single braided textile hose would be more than enough, and very much easier to install; a 90* elbow with the correct metric thread is available for just a few $$.
That is the way I am going: I'll get all the parts separately, including the hoses, purchased locally, as a flexible set of hoses makes things a lot easier, as I have read a number of times.
So, I am going the "Jeep way"
Cor
Pro
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 667
Likes: 7
From: Milpitas Calyfornua
I have seen this comment a number of times, and fail to see, why Borgeson supplies 3000 PSI working pressure hoses, while the actual pressures in the Corvette are around the 1000PSI.
In addition to that the return hose is also a high pressure hose, while a simple single braided textile hose would be more than enough, and very much easier to install; a 90* elbow with the correct metric thread is available for just a few $$.
That is the way I am going: I'll get all the parts separately, including the hoses, purchased locally, as a flexible set of hoses makes things a lot easier, as I have read a number of times.
So, I am going the "Jeep way"
Cor
In addition to that the return hose is also a high pressure hose, while a simple single braided textile hose would be more than enough, and very much easier to install; a 90* elbow with the correct metric thread is available for just a few $$.
That is the way I am going: I'll get all the parts separately, including the hoses, purchased locally, as a flexible set of hoses makes things a lot easier, as I have read a number of times.
So, I am going the "Jeep way"
Cor
Have stainless hoses on my 59 that has a PS rack and pinion system. They look great and may be a bit easier to install on the 71.
Had been considering rack/pinion for the 71, but this looks great and is less expensive.
Thanks