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Planning to install on my 71. Has anyone used stainless hoses on this installation. If so does anyone sell a pre-configured hose set and who would that be.
Have stainless hoses on my 59 that has a PS rack and pinion system. They look great and may be a bit easier to install on the 71.
Had been considering rack/pinion for the 71, but this looks great and is less expensive.
Thanks
Yes, I got the one's from Borgeson. They need to be cut. Not aware of available pre-cuts. They worked well. No leaks. Only trick is to not fray them. Wrap tightly in tape, then I used a metal cutting wheel on a dremel to cut the braid..high speed, go slow. The cut came clean.
Installed on pump, then install pump. Then to the Jeep box.
Going off to Goodguys event in Pleasanton today. Always many vendors there, will find if any pre-cut systems. Summit link looks perfect however.
Just got new clutch and flywheel in car yesterday, anxious to try it out, but so far (about 10 miles) all looks great,,,,Centerforce billet flywheel, Sachs clutch kit.
But damn, just blew both brake light and turn signal fuses again,,,,after just spending hours a couple of weeks ago changing turn signal switch,,,running out of ideas on this one,,,never a dull moment.
I want to improve my steering but I am plagued with the options and associated pitfalls. This is a good thread about one of the options:
1) I could have the recirculating ball box rebuilt to better than OEM specs but all the "prone to leaking" hydraulic stuff would still be hanging under the oil pan and the ratio is the same.
2) I could install rack and pinion with the associated lateral and upward flex. The following thread by Gunther was an interesting read (Project "Selfmade Rack and Pinion" (lots of pics)).
3) I could install the flex-free Jeep unit with a better ratio and loose all the leaky hydraulic stuff but have to rely on the recirculating ball technology.
Keep the information coming. I'm going to pull my steering gear off in a couple of months and do something. I just have not decided what.
the only item that I havent seen mentioned, is that if you're running your plug wires over the top of the valve covers, with straight boots, #3 will rub the borge, easily cured with the 45/135 degree, aka big block plug boot, I converted all mine to the bb boots so they would look the same. If you run them stock under the manifolds, no issues
I just ordered the Borgeson kit yesterday for my '73 restoration..
I figured that the money spent having the factory box blueprinted, rebuilding or replacing the control valve and cylinder OR buying the Borgeson kit is pretty much a wash either way, and now I don't have to worry about any leaks or "issues" with the factory setup.
I just ordered the Borgeson kit yesterday for my '73 restoration..
I figured that the money spent having the factory box blueprinted, rebuilding or replacing the control valve and cylinder OR buying the Borgeson kit is pretty much a wash either way, and now I don't have to worry about any leaks or "issues" with the factory setup.
Good move
I had already rebuilt/replaced/replaced again every part on the power steering system, and it STILL wasn't right I was tired of constantly screwing with the system, so I laid down the cash for the Borgeson unit....done and over with, one less thing to worry about
Glad to see this thread has helped so many members
The photos of how you had to cut down the spacer on the shaft came in real handy for me. I am in the process of installing mine on my 68 and was wondering if I was going to have to do that to get it to all fit on the shaft. Did your column shaft have a flat section on the top if it that is not splined in the very front where the coupler initially goes on it. Mine has a little ridge with no splines there and I guess I will have to put the Dremel tool to it to get the coupling to go on. Thanks!
The photos of how you had to cut down the spacer on the shaft came in real handy for me. I am in the process of installing mine on my 68 and was wondering if I was going to have to do that to get it to all fit on the shaft. Did your column shaft have a flat section on the top if it that is not splined in the very front where the coupler initially goes on it. Mine has a little ridge with no splines there and I guess I will have to put the Dremel tool to it to get the coupling to go on. Thanks!
Kelly
Glad so many were able to benefit from this thread I received PM and emails up to two years later from members asking all sorts of questions...mostly relating to clearance issues...tried to help however I could!
RE the section of the column with no splines on it, I can't remember exactly, but I think it's there to index the coupling. Check the inside of the coupling for a matching flat before breaking out the Dremel. Hopefully they didn't send you the wrong coupling
I am installing one on my 69 bb with xs power ss sidepipes, borgeson saids you will have to relocation of brake lines and prop. valve do you have to do this or not & how do you do this eith ne ss b lines.
I am installing one on my 69 bb with xs power ss sidepipes, borgeson saids you will have to relocation of brake lines and prop. valve do you have to do this or not & how do you do this eith ne ss b lines.
The brake line from the distribution valve to the tee suppling the front brakes had to be bent slightly to make room for the larger steering box.
They must be refering to a frame mount prop valve....68's don't have this so it was a non-issue, I don't think 69's have it either but I could be wrong
The brake line from the distribution valve to the tee suppling the front brakes had to be bent slightly to make room for the larger steering box.
They must be refering to a frame mount prop valve....68's don't have this so it was a non-issue, I don't think 69's have it either but I could be wrong
I do not have a tee, all the lines &prop valve is new ss from c.c. I have 2 lines from the master c. to theframe mount prop valve &3 lines coming out 2 to the front & 1 line to the rear brakes, on my 69 vette
I do not have a tee, all the lines &prop valve is new ss from c.c. I have 2 lines from the master c. to theframe mount prop valve &3 lines coming out 2 to the front & 1 line to the rear brakes, on my 69 vette
Maybe you can move the valve and bend the lines a little to get around the box...you may have to bend up some new lines
I just did mine this morning. On my 68, the box just barely made contact with the brake line leading to the PV. All it took was loosening the PV mounting bolt, rotating the PV as far as possible in the original slot and then re-tightening the mounting bolt.
Oh, to follow up on my previous post about the flat un-splined "ridge" on the end of my steering shaft; I spoke with someone from Borgeson and was informed that they do not make a different ragjoint to accommodate this situation. After a little Dremel work, the ridge was gone and so was the problem. The ragjoint slid right on with no problems.
I just did mine this morning. On my 68, the box just barely made contact with the brake line leading to the PV. All it took was loosening the PV mounting bolt, rotating the PV as far as possible in the original slot and then re-tightening the mounting bolt.
Oh, to follow up on my previous post about the flat un-splined "ridge" on the end of my steering shaft; I spoke with someone from Borgeson and was informed that they do not make a different ragjoint to accommodate this situation. After a little Dremel work, the ridge was gone and so was the problem. The ragjoint slid right on with no problems.
I want to improve my steering but I am plagued with the options and associated pitfalls. This is a good thread about one of the options:
1) I could have the recirculating ball box rebuilt to better than OEM specs but all the "prone to leaking" hydraulic stuff would still be hanging under the oil pan and the ratio is the same.
2) I could install rack and pinion with the associated lateral and upward flex. The following thread by Gunther was an interesting read (Project "Selfmade Rack and Pinion" (lots of pics)).
3) I could install the flex-free Jeep unit with a better ratio and loose all the leaky hydraulic stuff but have to rely on the recirculating ball technology.
Keep the information coming. I'm going to pull my steering gear off in a couple of months and do something. I just have not decided what.
I just did mine this morning. On my 68, the box just barely made contact with the brake line leading to the PV. All it took was loosening the PV mounting bolt, rotating the PV as far as possible in the original slot and then re-tightening the mounting bolt.
Oh, to follow up on my previous post about the flat un-splined "ridge" on the end of my steering shaft; I spoke with someone from Borgeson and was informed that they do not make a different ragjoint to accommodate this situation. After a little Dremel work, the ridge was gone and so was the problem. The ragjoint slid right on with no problems.
thanks for the imf. do you have power b. or man. I have power brs.
hi,i have a big qu. I have removed the exhaust + steering box on my bb 69 vette. do I install the headers + sidepipes first or the borgeson box first. what would be the best way to go? ray
hi,i have a big qu. I have removed the exhaust + steering box on my bb 69 vette. do I install the headers + sidepipes first or the borgeson box first. what would be the best way to go? ray
I know that the Borgeson box will go in with the headers and sidepipes installed (on my '68 BBC). I do not know if the reverse is true.