Looking good Richard!
Have you worked in the interior anymore? I'm looking forward to seeing how it will go together. I ordered my gauges for mine trying to get all the pieces together. I am not sure what to do about the heater/air switches. Is there an easy option to modernise them? Kinda like the brake you used?

any help will be appreciated!

 

You are welcome- stay tuned!!


Thank you !!! Yep- I have had this problem since I was a child- first it was a square peg in a round hole- then decided a triangle would be more of a challenge!!!

Hey Steve-

I'm working on the rear compartment right now- then it's get the steering column where I want it and then put it together from there.

As far as the HVAC switches- I'm running the vintage air- and used there "universal controls" - upgraded the ***** to be back lit (got them off a Oldsmobile Aura IIRC) and designed the switch to switch the defroster off/on but pushing the **** in

This video has the old *****- the ones that came with the Vintage Air universal.



Then I started finishing up the rear compartment -

Got the fuel pumps wired- then polished out the rollbar. It was in the car when I bought in 1981- and I'm guessing its chromemoly. Started out with 320- then 600 - 800 to 1500. Then some Mothers Wheel polish. I'm happy with how it turned out.






Then I was lamenting the fact that the light in the back of the compartment sux...In my 73 on several long trips-every time there was anything- like a set of folding chairs- overnight bag- you could NOT see as the light was covered- worthless!!!

So- LED rope lights- cut to size and some aluminum u-channel. . It'll mount right under the rear lip- only a 1/4" revels past the lip- just had to bend - tweek a little bit to fit nice and tight.

Polished the inside channel and sprayed the outside black. Not dry yet- I'll get a picture of it mounted and working- I just used a 9V battery to test- very efficient!!! Should light up the whole compartment with ease.









Here the back compartment light-

Don't even notice it AND plenty of light.

Now back to wiring...

 

Bolted up the heim strut rods and spacer plate-then went through every bolt on the back of the car- sway bars-gas tank-half shafts-driveshaft -diff and torqued them down,

Brake lines made up from the trailing arm to the caliper. The stock ones were too close to the coilovers- Some ni-cop line and my trusty Eastwood flare tool- done.


Messed with the fuel sender- as I was getting a leak from it- after carefully going over it- looks like the insulator for the electrical connector was just loose. So I decided to use a ring terminal- double nut it and not use the factory post clip connector. Also used a 2 pin weatherpack connector to make it easily disconnected- just in case I have to take it apart again....

 

I'm where you guys are with the interior....

Lotsa wires!!!



BUT to the rescue- my Dymo labeler that does HEAT SHRINK TUBING!!!






Also fixed a fuel rail leak-

It was a straight cut AN fitting with an O-ring...

I tried several days - let the sealant cure for 24hours- crap leaking again.




Then- tried a Dowty seal- used for high pressure hydraulics-it worked-


Four wires- two pumps in the tank- running both- no leaks

 

I made a tool to drill the rollbar for the seatbelt-

Looked on line- a lot of different designs to center drill a pipe- most were a V- block and a drill press...

Here's what I did on the cheap-

split ring hanger have them in various sizes at Lowes/HomeDepot I got the 2" and 1 ˝"- so I'm all in for $5!!!

Some aluminum tube I had laying around (about 10mm)- threaded it to 3/8-16

Then cut it so the drill bit would be able to goo through the rollbar.

Wallah-






Worked good-

Now just have to make a cover for the re-tractor-

 

That my friend, is just genius!

 

I don't know what I'm more impressed with. The impending V12, the flip down license plate, or the label maker with heat shrink tubing!

I didn't know they made Dynamo cartridges with that. I'm off to the store!

 

I have to thank Richard too for the Dymo deal.
Soon as I saw that in his post, I hit Amazon and had one on the way. Richard spends my money faster than my ex!

 

I just learned that a 9v will pull a led strip.....Can't wait to see it in person.....I promise I'll wear a bib to catch all the drool when I check it out.

Brian

 

Richard, I noticed the rotor shield in the photo from post 304. Looks like it maybe making light contact with the rotor near the top just forward of the front of the caliper. I am excited whenever a new post arrives on this thread as it is a work of art. Might have to get one of those Dymo label makers. Love to see the progress, keep at it.




[/QUOTE]

 

Thank you!

Hmmm- my ex's parents were from Ohio....although now all my ex's live in Duplexes!!!

Glad I could get you to spend some money!!!

Thanks!!! I'll bring a microfiber....

Thank you...I'm still at it. I did bend that edge right next to the caliper back -

I think I'm going to call Dyno and see if I can get a commission!!!


I'm still not a 100% as far as my cold- flu crap...However I did find some time to fight with the carpet around the roll bar. Not sure if I want to put edging on the carpet around the roll bar cuts- or try to hide them...

 

 

While I'm not going to be dropping in a v12, I did just drop $85 buying a labeler Great idea!

 

Hey Richard,
I'm looking for a roll bar like yours to install in my 73 build.
Did you make yours or did you purchase it?
Thanks

 

Love the ideas you come up with and thanks for sharing. Looking good and keeping it clean!

 

You do not want a Jag v12. They yank them from XJS and XJ12 cars to replace with small blocks for a reason. There are 6 criteria an engine has to meet: .size, weight, ease of repair, price-availability of parts, power output for weight, longevity. The Jag motor fails all of these. The Chevy small block passes them all.

 

Thanks Bill- After looking over your build- that's a nice compliment!!!

It was on the car when I bought it 38 years ago today!!! It's welded to the frame. Fits with the soft top and hardtop with no interference- did have to put a couple of reliefs in the decklid. If you need dimensions- I'll be glad to get them for you.

THANKS !!!


I went with a BMW engine. It's smaller than the big block that was in it- now I can change the plugs with ease. Weighs less then a small block. Parts? BMW still supplies OEM stuff for cars they built 50 years ago. Longevity? These engine used the Alusil not the dreaded Nikasil coatings on the piston walls- I have two V12 sitting in my basement with over 200K and the piston walls look brand new. The only things that sucked- twin distributors and twin ECUs- I have swapped them out - running LS coils and Megasquirt MS3 Pro ECU- both are pretty bullet proof..

The other reason they yanked the V12s out of Jags- Champagne tastes with beer budgets!!!


I am still finishing up the back of the interior-

The seat belts work great- so I'm making a cover for the retractors- which will tie into the quarter panel trim

Here's the first one out of the mold-needs to be cut down about and beefed up with some mat-

Still waiting on a couple parts- then hopefully buy next weekend have it started up!!!

 

It was on the car when I bought it 38 years ago today!!! It's welded to the frame. Fits with the soft top and hardtop with no interference- did have to put a couple of reliefs in the decklid. If you need dimensions- I'll be glad to get them for you.
Quote:

Thanks,
I've seen a couple that are made for Corvettes and I'll keep hunting for one that I can pick up.
I don't have the equipment to build one myself.
Greg

 

Working on the wiring....





Been messing with a solution for a while on this one-





I have a E-stopp electric barking brake- the guys at E-Stopp would not give me ANY information on how to "customize" it-

Told them I just wanted to "change" out the switch- but no luck.

Even had a buddy of mine stop by their booth at SEMA and see if he could get any info...Nope!!!

Their switch just looks out of place in my interior - also have a nice looking billet one- but still not my cup of tea.

So- I just cut the "void if removed" sticker and looked inside...cut up some wires and figured out what was needed to incorporate a Mercedes Benz S550 electric parking brake switch-

A couple of Bosch relays and I'm there,

Pull out- disengages the parking brake- push in the button and it engages-



Will look good mounted on the lower dash-


Opps- I guess it's out of warranty!!



Here's my rear storage compartment relay bank-

Started out as a craftsman socket holder!!!



3M Carbon fiber wrap


Relays - fuses- fuel pump switch( to switch between primary and back-up ) PWM control for plate motor- and USB charger plug

The fuses light when blown- and three 'blown" ones to tell me the fuel pump is on(one or two) and if the roll over inertia switch is triggered. If the car won't run- in seconds I'll know if the pump is working




I'll label the box-as far as fuse size and what it controls-





.