Is it difficult to change brake pads with the caliper still on the car? It seems you remove the large pin across the top that holds the pads and the pads should slide out. Is that right? How do you keep the pistons from moving or closing?

 

A wide putty knife works well. Push back the pad then insert the knife between the pistons and pad before the pistons rebound. Remove that pad while holding back the pistons with the knife. Not much pressure just a couple of springs. Then do the opposite pad. Man, I wish I lived in Shreveport. I could have so much more fun. Keep on her, Stuart. mike...

 

Hi,
I'll bite!
Why is there more fun to be had in Shreveport than in Kaufman County Texas?
Regards,
Alan

 

Three, no five, good friends that I like to hang with. One that has a car I could work on. If he would let me. The second owns two gas stations, one is a Colonel in the Air Force and can fly RC helicopters, the next has lots of guns, the last is married to the second. . mike...

 

If those pads are badly worn, you will have to drive each piston back into its caliper to make room for the [thicker] new one. You can do that with that [wide] spatula/putty knife by hand, or with a small C-clamp. BUT, when you do that, the brake fluid will "back up" into the master cylinder. So, you need to remove the M/C lid and you need to syphon some of the M/C brake fluid out of the reservoir (whichever one you are working on) so there's room to backfill. You don't want that fluid overflowing into your engine compartment.

Have the new pad oriented properly and waiting to go into the caliper. Pull one of the old one's out, stick in the spatula and drive the piston back into the caliper, and drop in the new one. Then, repeat for the other pad in that caliper.

 

7T1vette is absolutely correct. Sorry for not thinking of that. I know you just had the MC replaced when I saw you so it will be full. Good luck and again, sorry for the omission. mike...

 

When you push the pistons back into the caliper, hold your pry tool in place for a few seconds so the fluid can make its way back to the master cylinder. When you remove the tool, you'll soon see the piston starting to come back out. Make sure you slip the new pad into place before the piston closes off the opening.

...and don't forget to apply anti-squeal compound to the BACK sides (metal) of the new pads before inserting them into the caliper. Buy high quality compound.

Also, when siphoning brake fluid out of the master cylinder, make VERY sure you don't spill even a drop. Brake fluid eats paint immediately on contact.

 

Thanks Mike!!!

 

I've had a tool made for this purpose for years. Not sure if it is still available from vendors, but sure makes the job easier. It is just a piece of sheet metal bent in a "U" shape to go around the back of the caliper and the pistons on the other side. It should still be dirt cheap since it is not very high tech.

Ralph.

 

I would open the bleeder valves prior to pushing back on
the pistons. When the pistons are pushed back, this will force
the brake fluid in the calipers out of the system, rather than
back up into the master cylinder. The fluid in the calipers
probably contains moisture so it is best to get rid of it. Once the
pistons are pushed back, close the bleeder valves. After
the pads are installed, open the bleeder valves, starting with
the right rear first, and let gravity bleed the brakes.
Or another method can be used to bleed the brakes, such as
a power or vacume bleeder.

 

They do work well.

 

You'll need a pair of these: http://www.zip-corvette.com/ProductD...GR-SR&CTitle=&

 

Seems like you would need three hands to do it that way. Why not just remove the caliper?

 

Buy the tools.
Pull the pins.
Remove the master cylinder lid.
Clip the pistons on one side.
Apply anti-squeal compound to the back of the pad.
Insert pad.
Repeatx7.

You can do it while holding a beer.

 

The anti-squeal compound.....what does that do? Does it prevent the chirping noise?

 

Hiya,
The "chirping" noise you may have heard with brakes is the low pad indicator which is nothing more than a piece of metal fastened to the brake pad. It's positioned adjacent and ahead of the minimal wear level of the "meat" of the pad and is designed to rub against the rotor before the pad gets too low. While it rubs against the rotor it emits an audible intermittent "chirp' as it hits the rotor's high spots during each revolution of the rotor.

The anti-squeal compound is a very viscous, sticky substance that you spray or apply onto the back of the brake pads prior to installing them back into the caliper. It's purpose is to help the back of the brake pad maintain contact with the piston. This prevents the harmonic vibration that emits a squeal or squeak that you hear in squealing brakes. You can produce the same affect by running your finger around the rim of a wine glass and making it hum. Crooked brake shops have used squeaky brakes to help convince naive drivers that their brakes are unsafe. That it total BS. If that were the case, every city bus in America is unsafe. Now a grinding noise, that's a different story.
Good Luck with your brakes!

 

http://www.crcindustries.com/ei/cont...x?S=Y&PN=05351