C3 Tech/Performance V8 Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine, Basic Tech and Maintenance for the C3 Corvette
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My first rebuild

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Old Jan 29, 2013 | 12:18 AM
  #881  
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the reason you don't have sound is the best reason of all.

the motor is so loud that the microphone shuts off to protect your ears

a bit lean, huh? that glowing red manifold is kind of an indication

but still

CONGRATULATIONS!!!!!! a job well done!
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Old Jan 29, 2013 | 12:20 AM
  #882  
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Wow! Them headers are freakin hot!!! No exhaust + no backpressure = firing on the exhaust stroke. needed to advance timing and likely richen the carb. will burn an exhaust valve like that.

Last edited by 63mako; Jan 29, 2013 at 12:23 AM.
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Old Jan 29, 2013 | 12:21 AM
  #883  
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Originally Posted by SuperBuickGuy
the reason you don't have sound is the best reason of all.

the motor is so loud that the microphone shuts off to protect your ears

a bit lean, huh? that glowing red manifold is kind of an indication

but still

CONGRATULATIONS!!!!!! a job well done!
Thanks brother!
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Old Jan 29, 2013 | 12:23 AM
  #884  
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I didn't mention that a plug wire slipped during break in and burned. Had to make a mad dash to Orielly's for new wires. Hahaha. I am going to have to really study how to rout the plug wires. Anyone have pics of theirs with headers?
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Old Jan 29, 2013 | 12:28 AM
  #885  
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I prefer "tangled mess with boot socks"...


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Old Jan 29, 2013 | 12:32 AM
  #886  
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Ok, so it was getting late and my neighbors asked me to not run it past 8:30 since their kids go to bed. I just added the time and think I am about 5 min short on break in time. Is this a problem, do I start over or just go with it? The vehicle must have deffinetly running lean mixture screws on the carb after checking were almost all the way in. I have adjusted at this point.
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Old Jan 29, 2013 | 12:43 AM
  #887  
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By the way guys, I really appreciate ALL of your help. I could not have gotten here without your advice and occasional butt chewings. Hahaha
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Old Jan 29, 2013 | 07:45 AM
  #888  
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On the break-in...better safe than sorry!
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Old Jan 29, 2013 | 01:33 PM
  #889  
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I think you'll be ok, just try and vary you engine speeds as much as possible. This is also how you break it in on the street, even if you have to use L2 or low 1 to keep the rpm changing. You don't have to be **** but don't cruise for 20 minutes at 1800rpm.
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Old Jan 29, 2013 | 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by FatCat
Ok, so it was getting late and my neighbors asked me to not run it past 8:30 since their kids go to bed. I just added the time and think I am about 5 min short on break in time. Is this a problem, do I start over or just go with it? The vehicle must have deffinetly running lean mixture screws on the carb after checking were almost all the way in. I have adjusted at this point.
it's fine.... a bit of a word, though, on a new motor. Limit the "start it up to show a friend then shut it down without warming it up" after 1500 miles, it doesn't make a lot of difference, but while everything is still new such things should be minimized.

Of course, you will be replacing this motor with something a "bit more stout" long before it ever wears out - so a caution rather than a prohibition is in order
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Old Jan 29, 2013 | 02:13 PM
  #891  
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That's great FatCat, way to go on that motor ---I know you feel like a million $$$'s right now !!!!!!!
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Old Jan 29, 2013 | 06:29 PM
  #892  
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Originally Posted by SuperBuickGuy
.
Of course, you will be replacing this motor with something a "bit more stout" long before it ever wears out - so a caution rather than a prohibition is in order
haha, think so, he doesn't seem like the leadfoot type, but he does enjoy his projects. great job FatCat!
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Old Jan 29, 2013 | 08:11 PM
  #893  
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wooohooo! it's alive
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Old Jan 29, 2013 | 08:22 PM
  #894  
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Originally Posted by FatCat
I didn't mention that a plug wire slipped during break in and burned. Had to make a mad dash to Orielly's for new wires. Hahaha. I am going to have to really study how to rout the plug wires. Anyone have pics of theirs with headers?
nicely done FC, you'll be sleeping really well the next few nights i bet .

my engine had like heat shield/plug trays and bolt to the block that route the plug wires away from the headers, i'm sure you can buy them some where. Like i said they bolt right to the block so there should be a place on your motor for them to go.

Last edited by greghennings; Jan 29, 2013 at 08:22 PM. Reason: spelling corrections :P
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Old Jan 29, 2013 | 09:27 PM
  #895  
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Originally Posted by Doug1
haha, think so, he doesn't seem like the leadfoot type, but he does enjoy his projects. great job FatCat!
hmmm.... that sounds like poor parenting to me - but maybe he can overcome his past by doing burnouts at least twice a week (one of those times being well after 8:30 pm)
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Old Jan 29, 2013 | 09:48 PM
  #896  
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Hahaha! Thanks guys! And you thought we were done! Oh no. Here is the problem of the night at 700 rpm I am dead on 0 timing with that said, in the picture u will notice I can't turn dissy any because the VA is hitting the intake! What do I do about this?
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Old Jan 29, 2013 | 09:49 PM
  #897  
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Old Jan 29, 2013 | 09:53 PM
  #898  
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You're going to have to remove the distributor and move it one or two teeth in the clockwise direction. Then you can turn the distributor body clockwise and time it the way you want. (Mechanical drive tach distributors were correctly installed with the vacuum canister back near the firewall.)

Good work on your rebuild!
Pete
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Old Jan 29, 2013 | 10:01 PM
  #899  
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Originally Posted by PeteZO6
You're going to have to remove the distributor and move it one or two teeth in the clockwise direction. Then you can turn the distributor body clockwise and time it the way you want. (Mechanical drive tach distributors were correctly installed with the vacuum canister back near the firewall.)

Good work on your rebuild!
Pete
Thanks Pete for the compliment and the advice!
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Old Jan 29, 2013 | 10:19 PM
  #900  
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Originally Posted by PeteZO6
You're going to have to remove the distributor and move it one or two teeth in the clockwise direction. Then you can turn the distributor body clockwise and time it the way you want. (Mechanical drive tach distributors were correctly installed with the vacuum canister back near the firewall.)

Good work on your rebuild!
Pete
That's exactly what the problem is. Once you do that you'll be able to dial some advance in, which will cool off those pipes a bit. Basically chevy set this deal up so that the big square on the top of the HEI will essentially be 'square' to the engine when it's set up properly, and it looks like you've got the rotor set about two teeth counterclockwise from where it should be.

It will likely pick up some rpm when you do this, so you'll have to dial the idle back down a bit, then re-check and adjust your mixture screws as needed...
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