My first rebuild
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,548
Likes: 379
From: Woodinville WA
I have the entire wiring harness on a large map-style page that I bought from Eckler's.... it's saved my bacon more times - and I've eliminated or changed 50% of the wiring on my car.... buy one, they're like 20 bucks 
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,652
Likes: 49
From: Bridgewater nj
Once you get your vac advance hooked up and all the vacuum lines attached or plugged than you can move to the butt Dyno. Drive up hill at part throttle at @2500 rpm with a hot engine. Keep bumping the timing up until you hear pinging or you lose performance 
every performance built engine has it own sweet spot, its just up to you to find it. Kind of like a women
I'm assuming your mechanical advance and vac advance is working properly....
every performance built engine has it own sweet spot, its just up to you to find it. Kind of like a womenI'm assuming your mechanical advance and vac advance is working properly....
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,548
Likes: 379
From: Woodinville WA
Once you get your vac advance hooked up and all the vacuum lines attached or plugged than you can move to the butt Dyno. Drive up hill at part throttle at @2500 rpm with a hot engine. Keep bumping the timing up until you hear pinging or you lose performance every performance built engine has it own sweet spot, its just up to you to find it. Kind of like a women
I'm assuming your mechanical advance and vac advance is working properly....
every performance built engine has it own sweet spot, its just up to you to find it. Kind of like a womenI'm assuming your mechanical advance and vac advance is working properly....
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Sorry guys! It was a busy weekend with moms birthday and all. I just had a Y pipe put in but went to 2 1/2" pipe and it sounds great. It is still running hot and dies while driving and I got to figure that out.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,548
Likes: 379
From: Woodinville WA
make sure your upper hose isn't trapping air.
and check your thermostat..... I went through 3 before I finally got one that opened. That's right, opened... at 220* then it works fine and stays at 180* (grumble)
birthdays over Corvette driving.... oh young man, we're so disappointed in the poor training that we've done - the only way to go to a birthday party is greasy
and check your thermostat..... I went through 3 before I finally got one that opened. That's right, opened... at 220* then it works fine and stays at 180* (grumble)
birthdays over Corvette driving.... oh young man, we're so disappointed in the poor training that we've done - the only way to go to a birthday party is greasy
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
make sure your upper hose isn't trapping air.
and check your thermostat..... I went through 3 before I finally got one that opened. That's right, opened... at 220* then it works fine and stays at 180* (grumble)
birthdays over Corvette driving.... oh young man, we're so disappointed in the poor training that we've done - the only way to go to a birthday party is greasy
and check your thermostat..... I went through 3 before I finally got one that opened. That's right, opened... at 220* then it works fine and stays at 180* (grumble)
birthdays over Corvette driving.... oh young man, we're so disappointed in the poor training that we've done - the only way to go to a birthday party is greasy
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,548
Likes: 379
From: Woodinville WA
HA! I have been greasy for months now! The running hot problem looks like this. I am running about 210*-220* tmp. I can see the thermostat open about 210 and the temp drops. When at idle I am running 190*-200* but driving 210*-220*. Birdsmith and I spoke and he suggested I go to a 180* thermostat and look into getting the shoud weatherstrip that is missing from my car.
be sure your radiator isn't blocked - air travels from under the chin and into the radiator.... not so much through the front grills.
be sure that if you have a fan, it's shroud is also attached
be sure that if you have a fan, the thermostat in the fan works (clutch fans)
be sure that the air dam is on under the car
be sure that the air block on top of the radiator (which fills the space between the radiator and core support is blocked
if that doesn't work
go out for another drive, but this time with the hood unlatched.... it's possible, in a very crowded engine compartment, that you're not getting enough air out. If that's the case, unblock the vents on the side
those things solve about 90% of the issues
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,652
Likes: 49
From: Bridgewater nj
HA! I have been greasy for months now! The running hot problem looks like this. I am running about 210*-220* tmp. I can see the thermostat open about 210 and the temp drops. When at idle I am running 190*-200* but driving 210*-220*. Birdsmith and I spoke and he suggested I go to a 180* thermostat and look into getting the shoud weatherstrip that is missing from my car.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
There is nothing between the top of radiator and shroud (never was since I have had it) the weatherstrip on the side are somewhat there. The fan clutch appears to be working correctly. Not sure what the air dam under the car looks like but will check it out tonight to see if I can figure it out tonight. Until I ge this figured out I am dead in the water because I am afraid to drive it. It hasn't overheated but sure scary. Once I get through this, I can address the drivability issue of dies while driving. A for watching the coolant flow, man if I don't put the cap on when running, it shoots coolant across the garage after a few minutes.
Last edited by FatCat; Feb 6, 2013 at 01:11 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,428
Likes: 5
From: Japan
Dr. Rebuild sells all the seal kits for the radiator and core support...
BTW, remember awhile back during block prep when I reminded you of the importance of getting all the loose garbage out of those water jackets?
BTW, remember awhile back during block prep when I reminded you of the importance of getting all the loose garbage out of those water jackets?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
I did find those on Dr Rebuild! And yes I remember you said I will start a new thread on my overheating problem but I sure worked hard to not have that issue. Hahaha
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Ok, so I hence posted about this problem which may be normal but I don't think it is. The vehicle had been running for 3-5 min and pushing coolant out but when I hit the throttle and idle down, well you will see. FYI this car was doing the same thing prior to the rebuild.
Pro
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 672
Likes: 0
From: Chesapeake Virginia
Hey FC, concerning the overheating, does it do it while cruising around slowly or does it do it while running down the road at a fairly good clip.
the front air dam is critical for cooling on any car that doesn't have a front grill. I had a '86 TA that would run all day long around town or idleing, but put it on the highway and it would overheat within minutes. after much diging I found that the front spoiler had be knocked off before I got the car. I didn't even know it was supposed to be there until someone mentioned it. after spending $30 and a half hour, all was well at any speed.
just a thought.
the front air dam is critical for cooling on any car that doesn't have a front grill. I had a '86 TA that would run all day long around town or idleing, but put it on the highway and it would overheat within minutes. after much diging I found that the front spoiler had be knocked off before I got the car. I didn't even know it was supposed to be there until someone mentioned it. after spending $30 and a half hour, all was well at any speed.
just a thought.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Hey FC, concerning the overheating, does it do it while cruising around slowly or does it do it while running down the road at a fairly good clip.
the front air dam is critical for cooling on any car that doesn't have a front grill. I had a '86 TA that would run all day long around town or idleing, but put it on the highway and it would overheat within minutes. after much diging I found that the front spoiler had be knocked off before I got the car. I didn't even know it was supposed to be there until someone mentioned it. after spending $30 and a half hour, all was well at any speed.
just a thought.
the front air dam is critical for cooling on any car that doesn't have a front grill. I had a '86 TA that would run all day long around town or idleing, but put it on the highway and it would overheat within minutes. after much diging I found that the front spoiler had be knocked off before I got the car. I didn't even know it was supposed to be there until someone mentioned it. after spending $30 and a half hour, all was well at any speed.
just a thought.
It hasn't overheated at this point but It's consistently running at 200-220 while driving any speed at idle it drops at times, to 180-190. But I'm worried about the water pushed out in the video and think it might be part of my problem.
Last edited by FatCat; Feb 8, 2013 at 08:53 PM.
Pro
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 672
Likes: 0
From: Chesapeake Virginia
I don't think that 200 or 220 is that high IF you're running a 180* thermostat? and, you could also be getting some unreliable readings from the gauge.
as far as the "puking" goes, when exactly does it do it? during throttle up or throttle steady or throttle down?
as far as the "puking" goes, when exactly does it do it? during throttle up or throttle steady or throttle down?