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Nice work! I just read this entire thread with my morning coffee.
I notice a few pages back you said your timing had changed. I had a similar problem years ago and chased. I found in the end I had a two piece harmonic balancer. The part where the timing marks sat was attached to the lower part but there is a rubber seal. The balancer was gone and the upper half was slipping on the lower. That would throw off the marks. I though I was setting the timing but it was way off. Each time I came back to it it was different. I don't know what balancer you have. But I woul mark the top with a line right to the bottom and see if there is any change. See if its slipping. Look at the attached link. See where the two parts join? Thats a rubber seal in between there.
Starting down the stretch with a final sanding before primer. Used 180 grit here getting this baby smooth. Got drivers side of the hood, front fender and door to this point. I thought I would post a few pix for you guys. I have found a few razor gouges but they sanded right out. The goal is to get the body as straight as possible, primer, guide coat and block sand. I usually have to rub a while after I get it silky smooth! Hahahaha
On my car the body is surprisinly uneven, looks like an amateur's paint job on a car that had a lot of minor dings. Prior to doing your final sanding did you apply fiberglass or something over the whole body or did you just sand down the original fiberglass until it was even?
Nice work! I just read this entire thread with my morning coffee.
I notice a few pages back you said your timing had changed. I had a similar problem years ago and chased. I found in the end I had a two piece harmonic balancer. The part where the timing marks sat was attached to the lower part but there is a rubber seal. The balancer was gone and the upper half was slipping on the lower. That would throw off the marks. I though I was setting the timing but it was way off. Each time I came back to it it was different. I don't know what balancer you have. But I woul mark the top with a line right to the bottom and see if there is any change. See if its slipping. Look at the attached link. See where the two parts join? Thats a rubber seal in between there.
Wow! That took some time! I actually forgot at that time, had adjusted it but am going to watch it once I start drivin it for th problem you are talking about. Thanks for your encouragment and interest!
On my car the body is surprisinly uneven, looks like an amateur's paint job on a car that had a lot of minor dings. Prior to doing your final sanding did you apply fiberglass or something over the whole body or did you just sand down the original fiberglass until it was even?
The process we are using is: sand, primer, guide coat and block sand, which should get us smooth as glass. I hope! Thanks!
Wow! That took some time! I actually forgot at that time, had adjusted it but am going to watch it once I start drivin it for th problem you are talking about. Thanks for your encouragment and interest!
More like three coffees!
Its going to be hard to do with the fan belt pulley on there. the balancer is behind it. Your going to have to try to mark it on the back, draw a line through both halves. Or take the fan belt pulley off and draw the line. Then check it at a later point by removing the fan belt pulleys again.
On the first sanding did you sand into the original fiberglass to level it out?
No we only went down to the original primer and started sanding from there. Maybe you can shed some light on how to level it from here. It makes sense to , to do that then primer, then guide coat and then block sand to get the best results. Just not sure how to level the original promer
No we only went down to the original primer and started sanding from there. Maybe you can shed some light on how to level it from here. It makes sense to , to do that then primer, then guide coat and then block sand to get the best results. Just not sure how to level the original promer
No, I don't really have any ideas for you on how to level it from there. I've painted quite a few cars in my time but none of them were fiberglass and the Corvette looks like quite a challenge to even out with all those compound curves. On my car it looks like the dips are too deep to even out just by sanding primer alone so that's why I ask.
No, I don't really have any ideas for you on how to level it from there. I've painted quite a few cars in my time but none of them were fiberglass and the Corvette looks like quite a challenge to even out with all those compound curves. On my car it looks like the dips are too deep to even out just by sanding primer alone so that's why I ask.
According to my painter, we are going to primer then shoot the guide coat and block sand. As we block sand, we will address any dips with filler as we go. Right now, I am going strictly by feel to get it close as possible before that process.
According to my painter, we are going to primer then shoot the guide coat and block sand. As we block sand, we will address any dips with filler as we go. Right now, I am going strictly by feel to get it close as possible before that process.
Do you know what kind of filler you will be using?
Why is that interesting? You are scaring me! Hahaha
Well, for me I'm used to using body fill on bare metal before the primer goes on. I know I see on a lot of these car restoration shows people applying primer first and then putting body fill over top of that but the thought of doing it that way kind of scares me because I was taught you shouldn't put body fill over paint or primer. I also would have thought on a Corvette a person would use fiberglass fill rather than bondo but perhaps the fiberglass fill is unnecessary if one isn't filling directly on the fiberglass. If your painter says that's the way to do it I'm not in a position to argue with him, that does seem to be an increasingly common way to do it these days(I'm old school).
If you talk to your painter I'd be grateful if you'd ask him the specific type and brand of primer and body fill he's using.
I was thinking the way to even out a Corvette body would be to strip down to the fiberglass, apply fiberglass fill over the entire body, and then sand until guide coat looks even - guess that's not the way to do it.
Last edited by Priya; Mar 6, 2013 at 01:33 PM.
Reason: more info
Well, for me I'm used to using body fill on bare metal before the primer goes on. I know I see on a lot of these car restoration shows people applying primer first and then putting body fill over top of that but the thought of doing it that way kind of scares me because I was taught you shouldn't put body fill over paint or primer. I also would have thought on a Corvette a person would use fiberglass fill rather than bondo but perhaps the fiberglass fill is unnecessary if one isn't filling directly on the fiberglass. If your painter says that's the way to do it I'm not in a position to argue with him, that does seem to be an increasingly common way to do it these days(I'm old school).
If you talk to your painter I'd be grateful if you'd ask him the specific type and brand of primer and body fill he's using.
I was thinking the way to even out a Corvette body would be to strip down to the fiberglass, apply fiberglass fill over the entire body, and then sand until guide coat looks even - guess that's not the way to do it.
Oh! Let me clarify. We are not putting any filler over primer. All body work is done befor we prime the car. Any filler used for that is applied to fiberglass by sanding all the way down first to that section. Once primer is shot and guide coat, (if I understand correctly) we will block sand and any really low spots will bee again sanded out and filled again to the glass.
As for the filler, I believe there are different views on reg Bondo, Bondo glass filler ect. I spoke to a few people other than my painter and the said reg Bondo works great.
I will see what materials are used and list later.
Here are the materials
Primer- Pro form epoxy high build
Base and mid coats- either Matrix paint systems or House of Kolor depending on what color I actually go with.
Clear- Matrix AG40 Auto Glass, high solids
Its going to be hard to do with the fan belt pulley on there. the balancer is behind it. Your going to have to try to mark it on the back, draw a line through both halves. Or take the fan belt pulley off and draw the line. Then check it at a later point by removing the fan belt pulleys again.
Here are the materials
Primer- Pro form epoxy high build
Base and mid coats- either Matrix paint systems or House of Kolor depending on what color I actually go with.
Clear- Matrix AG40 Auto Glass, high solids