C3 Tech/Performance V8 Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine, Basic Tech and Maintenance for the C3 Corvette
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My first rebuild

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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 11:58 PM
  #1301  
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Originally Posted by augiedoggy
I bet even the makitas are made in china now instead of japan... honestly you would be very hard pressed to find any power tools made in the states... even craftsmen tools are mainly made in china now... the difference is marketing and quality.... I am on my second HF buffer but I beat the hell out of the first one buffing out two paint jobs.
I bet if you experimented with the paint gun settings you could get rid of much of that orange peel I know I did.... and I used harbor frieght paint guns... went through 5 different brands and types of guns before I had the best luck with the cheaper HF one.... the pricier ones I had required more air and my compressor couldnt keep up well...
ALSO watch a lot of youtube videos on painting....THEY HELP!
BTW soda blasting wont harm the body or glass windows and rubber for that matter... it just removes the paint...
I think the biggest thing I learned this weekend was though I had no sags or runs, I painted it a little too dry. I am going to do the jambs next and will turn up the air just a few lbs. hoping that will do the trick!
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 08:35 AM
  #1302  
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Originally Posted by FatCat
I think the biggest thing I learned this weekend was though I had no sags or runs, I painted it a little too dry. I am going to do the jambs next and will turn up the air just a few lbs. hoping that will do the trick!
more air without more paint will just make it spray more dry.... dry is ok for basecoat I found the metallic blue I used on my jeep came out nice and even that way...
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 08:50 AM
  #1303  
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Originally Posted by augiedoggy
more air without more paint will just make it spray more dry.... dry is ok for basecoat I found the metallic blue I used on my jeep came out nice and even that way...
That makes sense, so let me ask this! If you get some orange peel on the base but lay the clear nice and wet, will that cover the base orange peel?
Thanks!
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 09:43 AM
  #1304  
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as that fuel line goes FC, the supply line is 3/8" rubber hose and the return line is 1/4", you can buy them from anywhere. My hoses were rotting out so it might be a good idea for you to change them out too. Routing them shouldn't be too tricky, you might just need a long hose. Also that steel line is somewhat bendy if you need to position it a different direction.
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 10:02 AM
  #1305  
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Originally Posted by greghennings
as that fuel line goes FC, the supply line is 3/8" rubber hose and the return line is 1/4", you can buy them from anywhere. My hoses were rotting out so it might be a good idea for you to change them out too. Routing them shouldn't be too tricky, you might just need a long hose. Also that steel line is somewhat bendy if you need to position it a different direction.
I changed them when I put the engine back in but the supply line was a real PITA It was so tight it ended up being kinked a little which I guess as it warmed from running heat, it must have kinked closed. I'll just have to look at it and see what I can do. I was thinking if I could see a picture, I could save some headache.
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 10:57 AM
  #1306  
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Originally Posted by FatCat
I changed them when I put the engine back in but the supply line was a real PITA It was so tight it ended up being kinked a little which I guess as it warmed from running heat, it must have kinked closed. I'll just have to look at it and see what I can do. I was thinking if I could see a picture, I could save some headache.
I think there is a preformed "S" shaped hose for later C3 Corvettes. It goes from the supply line to the fuel pump. I have read about it here on the forum that if you don't use that hose, you will have a problem with the hose kinking. Check the Corvette vendors, you'll find it.

Pete
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 11:09 AM
  #1307  
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Yeah I think I need that same line, here is a link...

http://willcoxcorvette.com/product_i...roducts_id=559
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 11:14 AM
  #1308  
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Originally Posted by AirborneSilva
Yeah I think I need that same line, here is a link...

http://willcoxcorvette.com/product_i...roducts_id=559
Good call AS! I am on my iPad, and it's not as easy to jump around in the browser when typing - you loose what you typed. Thanks for the link.

Pete
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 12:06 PM
  #1309  
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Originally Posted by PeteZO6
Good call AS! I am on my iPad, and it's not as easy to jump around in the browser when typing - you loose what you typed. Thanks for the link.

Pete
Just helping a brother out
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 01:50 PM
  #1310  
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Thanks! I looked and that will work! Hahaha started to just order it but they want more to ship than the part costs! Lol
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 04:41 PM
  #1311  
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it wont smooth out the paint job completely but it helps ...and you can always buff the clear smooth later. main thing is not to shoot the clear on real dry.
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 05:29 PM
  #1312  
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Originally Posted by augiedoggy
it wont smooth out the paint job completely but it helps ...and you can always buff the clear smooth later. main thing is not to shoot the clear on real dry.
Agreed!! The base "should" go on so lightly that it "barely" covers with each coat... I sprayed jet black over a light grey primer and it took me at least 3-4 coats to get full coverage... While I'm no pro, I would guess the mixture is off a bit or you are spraying on too thick to be getting peel in your base... My base turned out very flat and smooth, just not shiny (until I sprayed clear)...

Good luck...

Rogman
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 09:33 PM
  #1313  
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Originally Posted by rogman16
Agreed!! The base "should" go on so lightly that it "barely" covers with each coat... I sprayed jet black over a light grey primer and it took me at least 3-4 coats to get full coverage... While I'm no pro, I would guess the mixture is off a bit or you are spraying on too thick to be getting peel in your base... My base turned out very flat and smooth, just not shiny (until I sprayed clear)...

Good luck...

Rogman
So, what if you took the time to sand the primer, base and clear? Would it be good or a waist of time?

Last edited by FatCat; Apr 18, 2013 at 07:09 PM.
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Old Apr 18, 2013 | 07:11 PM
  #1314  
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Anyone got input on that?
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Old Apr 18, 2013 | 10:14 PM
  #1315  
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I asked the question once if you could sand the base coat to smooth it out prior to clear coat, the painter said that you get the orange peel in the clear coat I think, and i'm not a painter mind you, that it wouldn't hurt if you put enough base on to smooth out... Our painters here would better answer that question though.
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Old Apr 18, 2013 | 10:18 PM
  #1316  
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Originally Posted by AirborneSilva
I asked the question once if you could sand the base coat to smooth it out prior to clear coat, the painter said that you get the orange peel in the clear coat I think, and i'm not a painter mind you, that it wouldn't hurt if you put enough base on to smooth out... Our painters here would better answer that question though.
So of I am reading this correctly, your orange peel problem is in the clear and not the base? If that is the case I guess just putting the clear on a little wetter should solve the problem. I do know u get OP in the primer too just unclear on the base. Thanks AS!
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Old Apr 18, 2013 | 10:25 PM
  #1317  
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Yeah he told me that you don't get op in the base but that don't make sense to me, I guess if you put on medium coats and not too light or too wet then you should be ok... Again, I am not a painter by any stretch.
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Old Apr 19, 2013 | 09:42 AM
  #1318  
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sand between base and clear.... that said, you can sand it smooth with a DA and 500 or 600 grit sandpaper (with water, of course)

and it really doesn't take long to sand it because all you're trying to do is get it flatter


or

you could do like a friend did, not sand the orange peel - then sand through the clear to the base so the car looks dull no matter how much you wax.
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Old Apr 19, 2013 | 05:03 PM
  #1319  
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Scott, you may want to try reducing your base a little more than the standard 100% or 1/1. This will allow it to flow out a little better than what you saw with your test panel. If you're getting orange peel in your base it's either because it's insufficiently reduced, the tip is too large, or you're applying it too heavily (gun too close/ dwelling too long/too much material) It also won't hurt to soak your gun tips in acetone for a day or two as well as cleaning the needle off real well. It has been my [recent] discovery that reducing (thinning) the material slightly more than what your paint vendor might recommend is generally beneficial when it comes to getting a nice smooth surface, that and using a 1.3mm tip while spraying color and clear.

Understand that with extra reduction comes extra likelihood for getting runs and sags, so when shooting vertical surfaces you don't want to lay the paint on too heavily, with the first coat being light. This gives successive coats more of a 'tooth' to grab onto, so it's less likely to run. ESPECIALLY with clearcoat, it's IMPERATIVE that the first coat go on as no more than a fog coat. Every time I've tried to lay a full wet first clearcoat down I got a ton of solvent pop, and you don't want that because the only way to fix it is to sand it out and reshoot it, which is a total waste of expensive paint. It's tempting to rush out a blow down a gallon on the first coat, but you have to resist that temptation if you're going to get a good result.

My own experience is that it's not necessary to sand basecoat even if there's a little peel in it, but the best finish I had with clear was to apply it (3 coats), let it cure for two or three days, sand out the peel with 600 grit wet paper, then lay on two or three more coats. It then flows on almost perfectly level and requires very little color sanding to get to where it can be polished, and it polishes up to an absolutely stunning finish. But to do a whole car that way would require an absolutely insane amount of HARD work...



That's what my wiper door looked like after this process...I wasn't about to do it to the whole car. Too much farkin' WORK!
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Old Apr 20, 2013 | 09:49 AM
  #1320  
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good morning guys. not trying to steal fatcat's "novel",just wanted to say this is a awesome thread i jumped to the end to add my 2cents in about 25 pages in and seem to learn a bit each time . as a new owner of a older vette i am sure some of this is gonna save me headaches in the future keep it going ,good job fatcat, thanks to all that helped !
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