Second rebuild 1973
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 1,216
Likes: 66
From: Killeen Texas
My back is killing me as I was on a ladder got to many hours today. I will try to get on the Vette tomorrow. Need to sand and get engine compartment painted. I ordered the new ac system from vintage air.. Need it so I can compleat the interior wiring
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Yea that's why mine went to Vansteal to have rebuilt. I also do not have a run out gage. They were recommended but others that had them done by them.
My back is killing me as I was on a ladder got to many hours today. I will try to get on the Vette tomorrow. Need to sand and get engine compartment painted. I ordered the new ac system from vintage air.. Need it so I can compleat the interior wiring
My back is killing me as I was on a ladder got to many hours today. I will try to get on the Vette tomorrow. Need to sand and get engine compartment painted. I ordered the new ac system from vintage air.. Need it so I can compleat the interior wiring
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
TArms, I hate you!!!
Here is where I am at and I have ready many posts but before I stray hacking away, I would like to try and get the bolt out. Castle nut came right off today but what is the best way to tell if you have to cut the bolt out? I tried to get a wrench and a socket on the head of the bolt with no luck. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
Scott
Here is where I am at and I have ready many posts but before I stray hacking away, I would like to try and get the bolt out. Castle nut came right off today but what is the best way to tell if you have to cut the bolt out? I tried to get a wrench and a socket on the head of the bolt with no luck. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
Scott
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,111
Likes: 32
From: Damascus MD
T Arms
TArms, I hate you!!!
Here is where I am at and I have ready many posts but before I stray hacking away, I would like to try and get the bolt out. Castle nut came right off today but what is the best way to tell if you have to cut the bolt out? I tried to get a wrench and a socket on the head of the bolt with no luck. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
Scott
Here is where I am at and I have ready many posts but before I stray hacking away, I would like to try and get the bolt out. Castle nut came right off today but what is the best way to tell if you have to cut the bolt out? I tried to get a wrench and a socket on the head of the bolt with no luck. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
Scott
The T Arm bolts fuse to the sleeve they pass through. Since yours is a 73 the T arm shims should be slotted. Pull the shims out and label them carefully. Take pictures too. Once you get the shims out you should be able to see the bolt.
The bolts are very hard. I believe at least grade 5. You will need the proper sawsall blade. Mine came right out so what I am saying has been perused from other threads.
Were you able to tap the end to the edge of the T arm bolt hole? If so it is not frozen. Use a thin stubby screw driver to push it through. You should then be able to grab the bolt on the outside of the T arm pocket. The bolt can be tough to see and get at but can be done. A triangular reinforcement and brake block/line obscures the bolt.
I used long nosed pliers to get the bolt out once I saw here it was located.
Hope this helps.
Bill
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 1,216
Likes: 66
From: Killeen Texas
I soaked mine with wd40 for 2 days before I took mine off. I used a lift table under the arm to take tension off, I removed the shims by removing long carter key that holds them in then with a brass drift and sledge I gave it a good hit and it came out..
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,111
Likes: 32
From: Damascus MD
Bolt
Did you try both sides? There is barely enough room to tap on the bolt but it is tough to get a clear shot. You can not hit it very hard but maybe it just needs some light tapping to get started.
You may want to soak for a couple more days and see it that helps. before just cutting them out. Otherwise cutting them out is the only option.
There are some good threads about cutting them out. It happens more often than not.
Bill
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 1,216
Likes: 66
From: Killeen Texas
You should be able to get a good shot on it with a sledge with either brass drift or punch since the body if off.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 1,216
Likes: 66
From: Killeen Texas
For some reason I thought you had removed the body, my bad... Makes it much harder if it is frozen on the frame.
Not sure if you have a pneumatic punch or a chisel if you have a chisel bit then cut it off flat and used it to knock the bolt loose or cut the bolt off with a sawzaw
Not sure if you have a pneumatic punch or a chisel if you have a chisel bit then cut it off flat and used it to knock the bolt loose or cut the bolt off with a sawzaw
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Hi Jane! I asked that question a while back and the commences is no because the trim is anodized and to keep it original you have to live with it the way it is or buy new. I you aren't worried about those points you could use 0000 steel wool to clean them up, paint the black parts and clear coat them!
Thanks for posting.
Scott
Thanks for posting.
Scott
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Oh! Got bored while waiting for the TArms to soak and did this! Any guidance from here is appreciated. I am not painting them but plan on using RPM Magic when done.
Process: First I cleaned the dirt off then hit them lightly with an already used 3M pad on the angle grinder to knock off the rust and patina. Then I cleaned it up a little more with 220 grit sand paper to get any light swirls out of it.
The process took about 15 min per axle to get them to this point, not too bad.
Scott
Process: First I cleaned the dirt off then hit them lightly with an already used 3M pad on the angle grinder to knock off the rust and patina. Then I cleaned it up a little more with 220 grit sand paper to get any light swirls out of it.
The process took about 15 min per axle to get them to this point, not too bad.
Scott
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 1,216
Likes: 66
From: Killeen Texas
I think putting them back in after I got them back from the rebuild shop was harder then taking them out... Putting the shims in is a real pain...
Keep up the work....
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Keep soaking it.. When I removed my body I used 3 of the large bottles of wd40 over a few days soaking every bolt. Figured that was easer then removing broke off bolts... Everything came out with out a issue, the TA like I said took a good swift hit with a sludge and a brass drift. But was able to get them out..
I think putting them back in after I got them back from the rebuild shop was harder then taking them out... Putting the shims in is a real pain...
Keep up the work....
I think putting them back in after I got them back from the rebuild shop was harder then taking them out... Putting the shims in is a real pain...
Keep up the work....