Second rebuild 1973
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
So read about a rust remover product in an older thread on here and decided to give it a try.
It's called Evapo Rust and I got it at harbor freight.
I did a small portion on the frame and a bag of rear end bolts.
The instructions are to soak the parts or use soakd paper towels and wrap with plastic.
I soaked it over night.
Cleaned with water and removed most of the rust and only left a all light punt and the old paint.
Lightly wire wheeled less than 2 min
The frame part I was happy but not overly pleased. Now the bag of bolts.. Whole other story!!!!
I was shocked at how well it worked on them, maybe I won't have to replace as many as I thought.
If I rated this stuff based on how pleased I was with the results, I would give it an 8 on a scale of 1-10 with 10 the highest satisfaction.
I just wanted to share this with you all and hope I didn't break any forum rules in doing so.
It's called Evapo Rust and I got it at harbor freight.
I did a small portion on the frame and a bag of rear end bolts.
The instructions are to soak the parts or use soakd paper towels and wrap with plastic.
I soaked it over night.
Cleaned with water and removed most of the rust and only left a all light punt and the old paint.
Lightly wire wheeled less than 2 min
The frame part I was happy but not overly pleased. Now the bag of bolts.. Whole other story!!!!
I was shocked at how well it worked on them, maybe I won't have to replace as many as I thought.
If I rated this stuff based on how pleased I was with the results, I would give it an 8 on a scale of 1-10 with 10 the highest satisfaction.
I just wanted to share this with you all and hope I didn't break any forum rules in doing so.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Actually if you do a large section of the frame and let is soak the night before you wire wheel it, the wire wheel process goes much faster. IMO
Last edited by FatCat; Sep 28, 2013 at 11:59 AM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Anyone have an opinion on replacing the fuel lines? Do you have to drop the body to do that? If u look at the pics they are pretty rusty.
Scott
Scott
Last edited by FatCat; Sep 28, 2013 at 04:34 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 11,615
Likes: 350
From: No Where USA
So read about a rust remover product in an older thread on here and decided to give it a try.
It's called Evapo Rust and I got it at harbor freight.
I did a small portion on the frame and a bag of rear end bolts.
The instructions are to soak the parts or use soakd paper towels and wrap with plastic.
I soaked it over night.
Cleaned with water and removed most of the rust and only left a all light punt and the old paint.
Lightly wire wheeled less than 2 min
The frame part I was happy but not overly pleased. Now the bag of bolts.. Whole other story!!!!
I was shocked at how well it worked on them, maybe I won't have to replace as many as I thought.
If I rated this stuff based on how pleased I was with the results, I would give it an 8 on a scale of 1-10 with 10 the highest satisfaction.
I just wanted to share this with you all and hope I didn't break any forum rules in doing so.
It's called Evapo Rust and I got it at harbor freight.
I did a small portion on the frame and a bag of rear end bolts.
The instructions are to soak the parts or use soakd paper towels and wrap with plastic.
I soaked it over night.
Cleaned with water and removed most of the rust and only left a all light punt and the old paint.
Lightly wire wheeled less than 2 min
The frame part I was happy but not overly pleased. Now the bag of bolts.. Whole other story!!!!
I was shocked at how well it worked on them, maybe I won't have to replace as many as I thought.
If I rated this stuff based on how pleased I was with the results, I would give it an 8 on a scale of 1-10 with 10 the highest satisfaction.
I just wanted to share this with you all and hope I didn't break any forum rules in doing so.
I have a 5 gallon bucket fill with rust remover I bought at home depot. When I need to clean rust off something I just stick it in there over night and it comes out like new the next day.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,274
Likes: 4,366
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi FC,
It's REALLY difficult to replace the long brake, fuel, and vapor lines with the body mounted on the chassis.
For me the 'dark pockets' in the frame in your picture still need to be addressed. Also, you chose a nice flat area for your test... it's the corners and welded brackets on the frame that are, and will be difficult to clean completely, with the liquid.
I don't think these's any short cut in preparing a frame to paint.
Regards,
Alan
I still believe there's no substitute for cleaning fasteners using a wire wheel mounted on a bench grinder if you're going to replete them.
Sorry!
It's REALLY difficult to replace the long brake, fuel, and vapor lines with the body mounted on the chassis.
For me the 'dark pockets' in the frame in your picture still need to be addressed. Also, you chose a nice flat area for your test... it's the corners and welded brackets on the frame that are, and will be difficult to clean completely, with the liquid.
I don't think these's any short cut in preparing a frame to paint.
Regards,
Alan
I still believe there's no substitute for cleaning fasteners using a wire wheel mounted on a bench grinder if you're going to replete them.
Sorry!
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Hi FC,
It's REALLY difficult to replace the long brake, fuel, and vapor lines with the body mounted on the chassis.
For me the 'dark pockets' in the frame in your picture still need to be addressed. Also, you chose a nice flat area for your test... it's the corners and welded brackets on the frame that are, and will be difficult to clean completely, with the liquid.
I don't think these's any short cut in preparing a frame to paint.
Regards,
Alan
I still believe there's no substitute for cleaning fasteners using a wire wheel mounted on a bench grinder if you're going to replete them.
Sorry!
It's REALLY difficult to replace the long brake, fuel, and vapor lines with the body mounted on the chassis.
For me the 'dark pockets' in the frame in your picture still need to be addressed. Also, you chose a nice flat area for your test... it's the corners and welded brackets on the frame that are, and will be difficult to clean completely, with the liquid.
I don't think these's any short cut in preparing a frame to paint.
Regards,
Alan
I still believe there's no substitute for cleaning fasteners using a wire wheel mounted on a bench grinder if you're going to replete them.
Sorry!
Hey speaking if plating, is it expensive to set up and learn to do the plating myself? I know you mentioned that was what you did. Do you have a good resource for learning the process?
Thanks!
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Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
For to do some work today!!! I am making good progress for me and really happy with the way things are cleaning up. I hope to have to back 1/4 of the frame done over the next week or so. Here is some pix from today...I still have a lot of detail work to do but I was able to kind of getting in a groove which should speed things up some.
Also started cleaning up the fuel lines.
Also started cleaning up the fuel lines.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,111
Likes: 32
From: Damascus MD
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
I picked up some John Deere Vlitz Black today here's a picture of my rear end cross member.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 1,216
Likes: 66
From: Killeen Texas
I just started posting today on this forum, Thread is "My 1973 frame off Follow along the restoration" I'm a little over a year into the restoration. I went back and started posting what I have done so far with pictures. I'm up to April, hope to have it finished by tomorrow..
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,111
Likes: 32
From: Damascus MD
Crossmember
The drips I have are around the bottom edges on the original parts. No drips on the bigger parts that I have seen. Imagine GM using a wire to hold the part and dipping it in black paint. The bottom most area on the part dipped has the runs.
I will have to see if I have some pictures. I prefer to post on NCRS because I really dislike the method of here on the forum of using Photo bucket.
Bill
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Looks like the paint is brushed on. The John Deere paint comes in rattle cans.
The drips I have are around the bottom edges on the original parts. No drips on the bigger parts that I have seen. Imagine GM using a wire to hold the part and dipping it in black paint. The bottom most area on the part dipped has the runs.
I will have to see if I have some pictures. I prefer to post on NCRS because I really dislike the method of here on the forum of using Photo bucket.
Bill
The drips I have are around the bottom edges on the original parts. No drips on the bigger parts that I have seen. Imagine GM using a wire to hold the part and dipping it in black paint. The bottom most area on the part dipped has the runs.
I will have to see if I have some pictures. I prefer to post on NCRS because I really dislike the method of here on the forum of using Photo bucket.
Bill
No need for pix, I get what you are saying brother!
Scott
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Another night and a little closer to getting ready for paint on the rear part of the frame. All I have left to do is find a tool tomorrow for getting into the very corners to rod them of rust. I am currently using a combination of flat and cupped wire wheels, pipe cleaners, 2"&3" 3M pads on an angle grinder, and a black (not sure what it is called) knarley looking hard plastic pad on a drill. Here's a few pictures.
I also went ahead and started taping off everything so I don't get overspray on places it's not suppose to be.
I also got this in the mail today!!
I also went ahead and started taping off everything so I don't get overspray on places it's not suppose to be.
I also got this in the mail today!!