Second rebuild 1973
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 1,216
Likes: 66
From: Killeen Texas
My lift table helped but trying to get all the shims in sucked... I got it close but ended up with a few extra shims that I will take with me when I get the 4 wheel alignment. I got a set of SS shims as part of the rebuild.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,111
Likes: 32
From: Damascus MD
rust
Time consuming and tedious and even then there are areas you cannot get to with the body on.
Bill
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Scott
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,111
Likes: 32
From: Damascus MD
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,652
Likes: 49
From: Bridgewater nj
Emory has a heavy material that keeps it from shredding. I use a sanding sponge to knock the scales off and then POR15. You need rust to cure the POR15. I put on my truck frame and it was disaster because I cleaned the frame down to bare metal. With in a year, it bubbled up and heavy rust formed underneath. 
Sometimes it pays to read directions
Sometimes it pays to read directions
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Emory has a heavy material that keeps it from shredding. I use a sanding sponge to knock the scales off and then POR15. You need rust to cure the POR15. I put on my truck frame and it was disaster because I cleaned the frame down to bare metal. With in a year, it bubbled up and heavy rust formed underneath.
Sometimes it pays to read directions
Sometimes it pays to read directions
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Thanks
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Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Any we are still alive and progressing!!! Hahaha
BTW Emory cloth taped to a paint stick is becoming a favorite in the plethora of tools!
Thanks for that advise everyone...
Scott
BTW Emory cloth taped to a paint stick is becoming a favorite in the plethora of tools!
Thanks for that advise everyone...
Scott
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
If I can figure out how to paint in the really tight spots I will be really happy..... My dad sakes me tonight, " why are you doing all of that? No one will ever see it." most just don't get it!!
Last edited by FatCat; Oct 16, 2013 at 11:20 PM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Paging Alan71!!!
I hope you see this and don't mind I posted the picture but I have a question about it.
Can you tell me what the process for getting the underneath fiberglass that clean is? It appears to not be painted but is that just from a good cleaning?
Thanks!
I hope you see this and don't mind I posted the picture but I have a question about it.
Can you tell me what the process for getting the underneath fiberglass that clean is? It appears to not be painted but is that just from a good cleaning?
Thanks!
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,274
Likes: 4,366
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi FC,
I don't recommend using anything stiffer than a PLASTIC paint scraper on any of the fiberglass under body, wheel wells, or spare tire tub.
You REALLY don't want to gouge or scratch the surface.
I used lacquer thinner in copious amounts on lots rags to soak through the crud everywhere on the underbody. I didn't find anything that enough lacquer thinner would work it's way through.
After the underbody and tub was clean I sprayed it very lightly with semi-flat clear. This restores a bit of sheen and makes it easy to maintain the fiberglass.
To answer your PM... not a problem.
It looks like you're making nice progress. I'm not sure though if I'd have done any painting until you've cleaned the underbody.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
Here's another picture showing the under body.
And another at the transmission tunnel. You can see a little sheen.
I don't recommend using anything stiffer than a PLASTIC paint scraper on any of the fiberglass under body, wheel wells, or spare tire tub.
You REALLY don't want to gouge or scratch the surface.
I used lacquer thinner in copious amounts on lots rags to soak through the crud everywhere on the underbody. I didn't find anything that enough lacquer thinner would work it's way through.
After the underbody and tub was clean I sprayed it very lightly with semi-flat clear. This restores a bit of sheen and makes it easy to maintain the fiberglass.
To answer your PM... not a problem.
It looks like you're making nice progress. I'm not sure though if I'd have done any painting until you've cleaned the underbody.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
Here's another picture showing the under body.
And another at the transmission tunnel. You can see a little sheen.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Thanks for posting Alan that helps me a lot! I really debated with myself on whether to paint or not. My end thought process was any overspray that does get through would be on the old dirt and grime instead of the glass. After last night though I started thinking maybe it was a mistake. We live and we learn right!?!?
Scott
Scott