Second rebuild 1973
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
So tonight I am continuing the undercoat scraping. I have found an old fiberglass repair and need some advice on what to do.
Here are pix of it
And another picture of a cleaned area. Can anyone tell me what the part is an for in the upper left side of the picture?
I also need help on what to do with this seam right above the body mount plate in the front of the wheel well.
Thanks!
Scott
Here are pix of it
And another picture of a cleaned area. Can anyone tell me what the part is an for in the upper left side of the picture?
I also need help on what to do with this seam right above the body mount plate in the front of the wheel well.
Thanks!
Scott
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,274
Likes: 4,366
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi Scott,
The circular part in your third picture is the drain for the phlenum that's under the grills in the rear deck just to the rear of the rear glass.
I used a sharp blade like a window scraper to carefully 'chip' the excess bond material off flush with the flange in the lower fiberglass piece. Made it too 'pretty', but to my taste.
Regards,
Alan
The circular part in your third picture is the drain for the phlenum that's under the grills in the rear deck just to the rear of the rear glass.
I used a sharp blade like a window scraper to carefully 'chip' the excess bond material off flush with the flange in the lower fiberglass piece. Made it too 'pretty', but to my taste.
Regards,
Alan
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Hi Scott,
The circular part in your third picture is the drain for the phlenum that's under the grills in the rear deck just to the rear of the rear glass.
I used a sharp blade like a window scraper to carefully 'chip' the excess bond material off flush with the flange in the lower fiberglass piece. Made it too 'pretty', but to my taste.
Regards,
Alan
The circular part in your third picture is the drain for the phlenum that's under the grills in the rear deck just to the rear of the rear glass.
I used a sharp blade like a window scraper to carefully 'chip' the excess bond material off flush with the flange in the lower fiberglass piece. Made it too 'pretty', but to my taste.
Regards,
Alan
Scott
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Scott
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,111
Likes: 32
From: Damascus MD
fiberglass
HI Scott,
The area you are cleaning now actually has quite of bit of overspray typically.
I left as much of the original overspray there as possible and I had a little original lacquer mixed up to recreate the overspray where I had to get a bit aggressive to clean it up.
I also cleaned up the vents, taped off the rivets and painted with Krylon 1613 semi flat. Keep in mind the body color overspray was on the vents too.
If you duplicate the overspray, you can disguise the fiberglass repairs.
I had a couple holes in the same area from where bubba tried to mount a speaker or two. I was able to use fiberglass and resin with a tiny amount of black dye to duplicate the original black glass. I cut up the fiberglass in to tiny pieces before using it to fill the holes. You would be very hard pressed to find the repairs.
I also found the number "100" on the bulkhead.
Bill
The area you are cleaning now actually has quite of bit of overspray typically.
I left as much of the original overspray there as possible and I had a little original lacquer mixed up to recreate the overspray where I had to get a bit aggressive to clean it up.
I also cleaned up the vents, taped off the rivets and painted with Krylon 1613 semi flat. Keep in mind the body color overspray was on the vents too.
If you duplicate the overspray, you can disguise the fiberglass repairs.
I had a couple holes in the same area from where bubba tried to mount a speaker or two. I was able to use fiberglass and resin with a tiny amount of black dye to duplicate the original black glass. I cut up the fiberglass in to tiny pieces before using it to fill the holes. You would be very hard pressed to find the repairs.
I also found the number "100" on the bulkhead.
Bill
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,111
Likes: 32
From: Damascus MD
Details
If you do repair. make sure you tape the areas around it so they do not get sanded and ground down by accident. Also keeps the resin from dripping on the good areas.
The repairs are not too bad just takes a little practice. I use paper cups to mix the fiberglass.
I left the seam a mess as built.
Bill
The repairs are not too bad just takes a little practice. I use paper cups to mix the fiberglass.
I left the seam a mess as built.
Bill
Last edited by 1974ta; Oct 21, 2013 at 09:54 PM. Reason: Add
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
HI Scott,
The area you are cleaning now actually has quite of bit of overspray typically.
I left as much of the original overspray there as possible and I had a little original lacquer mixed up to recreate the overspray where I had to get a bit aggressive to clean it up.
I also cleaned up the vents, taped off the rivets and painted with Krylon 1613 semi flat. Keep in mind the body color overspray was on the vents too.
If you duplicate the overspray, you can disguise the fiberglass repairs.
I had a couple holes in the same area from where bubba tried to mount a speaker or two. I was able to use fiberglass and resin with a tiny amount of black dye to duplicate the original black glass. I cut up the fiberglass in to tiny pieces before using it to fill the holes. You would be very hard pressed to find the repairs.
I also found the number "100" on the bulkhead.
Bill
The area you are cleaning now actually has quite of bit of overspray typically.
I left as much of the original overspray there as possible and I had a little original lacquer mixed up to recreate the overspray where I had to get a bit aggressive to clean it up.
I also cleaned up the vents, taped off the rivets and painted with Krylon 1613 semi flat. Keep in mind the body color overspray was on the vents too.
If you duplicate the overspray, you can disguise the fiberglass repairs.
I had a couple holes in the same area from where bubba tried to mount a speaker or two. I was able to use fiberglass and resin with a tiny amount of black dye to duplicate the original black glass. I cut up the fiberglass in to tiny pieces before using it to fill the holes. You would be very hard pressed to find the repairs.
I also found the number "100" on the bulkhead.
Bill
I am really trying to wrap my head around the whole overspray part and understand how it should all look. At the same time I want it to please my eye as well. I wishy judginganu had a few pictures as examples nice and close up.
Thanks
Scott
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Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Here is an example of what I am up against with the factory overspray. This is what the jack compartment looked like and I see no way to not take the overspray off to get the undercoating off.
I am also curious what color you all a painting the body mount cover?
Scott
I am also curious what color you all a painting the body mount cover?
Scott
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Sorry guys for all the questions tonight but I couldn't do this without you all!!
In this picture I pulled out the fiber mesh and really not seeing where anything was even repaired at this point. The question is, what do I use to get the old resin off? Laquer thinner doesn't seem to soften it at all.
Thanks
Scott
In this picture I pulled out the fiber mesh and really not seeing where anything was even repaired at this point. The question is, what do I use to get the old resin off? Laquer thinner doesn't seem to soften it at all.
Thanks
Scott
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 3,487
Likes: 83
From: Titusville Florida
Sorry guys for all the questions tonight but I couldn't do this without you all!!
In this picture I pulled out the fiber mesh and really not seeing where anything was even repaired at this point. The question is, what do I use to get the old resin off? Laquer thinner doesn't seem to soften it at all.
Thanks
Scott
In this picture I pulled out the fiber mesh and really not seeing where anything was even repaired at this point. The question is, what do I use to get the old resin off? Laquer thinner doesn't seem to soften it at all.
Thanks
Scott
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 3,487
Likes: 83
From: Titusville Florida
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,111
Likes: 32
From: Damascus MD
Factory
Does not look factory at all.
My suggestion is to use a dremel to VERY carefully grind down resin and remainder of mat. Then go to 150 grit paper and finish with 320 when you get down to original glass.
This is the method I used to fill a few screw holes. I did tape off the area around so I only sanded areas needing sanding.
It will be a little too smooth but will be closer to factory.
Bill
My suggestion is to use a dremel to VERY carefully grind down resin and remainder of mat. Then go to 150 grit paper and finish with 320 when you get down to original glass.
This is the method I used to fill a few screw holes. I did tape off the area around so I only sanded areas needing sanding.
It will be a little too smooth but will be closer to factory.
Bill
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
So the trailing arms ate up a lot of time and now I have to play catch up. The last 30 minutes of work each night I will scrape a little paint. That should get me actually ahead of schedule again in a few weeks!!!
Trailing arms going to get blasted tomorrow!!
Trailing arms going to get blasted tomorrow!!
Last edited by FatCat; Oct 23, 2013 at 12:46 AM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Does not look factory at all.
My suggestion is to use a dremel to VERY carefully grind down resin and remainder of mat. Then go to 150 grit paper and finish with 320 when you get down to original glass.
This is the method I used to fill a few screw holes. I did tape off the area around so I only sanded areas needing sanding.
It will be a little too smooth but will be closer to factory.
Bill
My suggestion is to use a dremel to VERY carefully grind down resin and remainder of mat. Then go to 150 grit paper and finish with 320 when you get down to original glass.
This is the method I used to fill a few screw holes. I did tape off the area around so I only sanded areas needing sanding.
It will be a little too smooth but will be closer to factory.
Bill
Scott
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 186
Likes: 2
From: Moncks Corner SC
Hi Scott,
It appears to me there is a small crack in the lower third of the picture. I agree that the "fix" should be to carefully remove the old patch and then see what you have. My guess is that some finely chopped fiberglass and resin will do the job. keep up the good work.
Regards, Bob
It appears to me there is a small crack in the lower third of the picture. I agree that the "fix" should be to carefully remove the old patch and then see what you have. My guess is that some finely chopped fiberglass and resin will do the job. keep up the good work.
Regards, Bob
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Hi Scott,
It appears to me there is a small crack in the lower third of the picture. I agree that the "fix" should be to carefully remove the old patch and then see what you have. My guess is that some finely chopped fiberglass and resin will do the job. keep up the good work.
Regards, Bob
It appears to me there is a small crack in the lower third of the picture. I agree that the "fix" should be to carefully remove the old patch and then see what you have. My guess is that some finely chopped fiberglass and resin will do the job. keep up the good work.
Regards, Bob
I may try to tackle that this evening.
Scott