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Old Oct 27, 2013 | 11:36 PM
  #281  
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Originally Posted by FatCat
Hey Bill, why did you use temporary bolts?
Scott
So he wouldn't mess up the real Purdy bolts
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Old Oct 28, 2013 | 07:43 PM
  #282  
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Originally Posted by doorgunner
So he wouldn't mess up the real Purdy bolts
Yep
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Old Nov 3, 2013 | 02:32 AM
  #283  
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Soooo I had some work issues come up last week which caused me to slow down but back to it tonight...I am still working on cleaning up the rear wheel wells.



The next 2 pix are the best I could get. It is the top of the wheel well where the panels meet. The glass feels very thin in this area as if there is no resin and just fiber. That is the only way I know how to explain it but can anyone help me figure out what needs to be done to strengthen it?

The lighter color is the area in question.

Thanks
Scott
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Old Nov 3, 2013 | 10:52 AM
  #284  
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FC.....you're up at 2:30 in the morning?!

I got no repair knowledge......sorry.

(But.....I'm "gonna" watch your thread and get some...now show me how to build up fiberglass....LOL)
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Old Nov 3, 2013 | 11:00 AM
  #285  
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Originally Posted by doorgunner
FC.....you're up at 2:30 in the morning?!

I got no repair knowledge......sorry.

(But.....I'm "gonna" watch your thread and get some...now show me how to build up fiberglass....LOL)
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Old Nov 3, 2013 | 11:14 AM
  #286  
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Hahahaha! I was exhausted from the week and took a late nap so I couldn't sleep. Hee Hee
Yeah, this should be fun just hoping someone chimes on the glass. I am thinking it's not too hard but at this point I still haven't done any glass work so should be an adventure.
Everything is in order to complete the back 1/3 of the car cleaning and painting over the next week but unfortunately my business took a dive and I had to shut down so TArm bushings, yokes and such will have to wait until I have secured a new job. Kind of a bummer but we will survive it.
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Old Nov 3, 2013 | 11:30 AM
  #287  
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Originally Posted by FatCat
Hahahaha! I was exhausted from the week and took a late nap so I couldn't sleep. Hee Hee
Yeah, this should be fun just hoping someone chimes on the glass. I am thinking it's not too hard but at this point I still haven't done any glass work so should be an adventure.
Everything is in order to complete the back 1/3 of the car cleaning and painting over the next week but unfortunately my business took a dive and I had to shut down so TArm bushings, yokes and such will have to wait until I have secured a new job. Kind of a bummer but we will survive it.
Best of Luck ... Bob
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Old Nov 3, 2013 | 11:52 AM
  #288  
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Originally Posted by carjack007
Best of Luck ... Bob
Thanks Bob! There's a job out there for a guy like me! Hahahaha
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Old Nov 3, 2013 | 12:01 PM
  #289  
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Good luck on the job hunt. I lost mine 6 months ago and now just take small jobs.

I'm going to work on my engine compartment today, got a little glass work to do also.
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Old Nov 3, 2013 | 06:43 PM
  #290  
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Sorry about your job situation/s I hope both of you find jobs quick. I'm a bit uncertain about my employment after January with our wonderful government "leadership"
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Old Nov 4, 2013 | 06:20 PM
  #291  
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Thanks for the well wishes everyone!
So I am cleaning up the driver side wheel well and found this. If anyone has input that would be great on how to repair.
This is where the panels meet and appears to need just reattached with a body adhesive of some sort.
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Old Nov 4, 2013 | 10:57 PM
  #292  
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So tonight I went ahead and sprayed a new coat of 3M 8881 undercoating and dusted with a semi flat black paint....I am very pleased!

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Old Nov 5, 2013 | 12:00 AM
  #293  
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Default Wheel Well

Originally Posted by FatCat
So tonight I went ahead and sprayed a new coat of 3M 8881 undercoating and dusted with a semi flat black paint....I am very pleased!


Lookin Good Scott!

When you put the body mount plate back on the factory use strip caulk to seal it up. Typically it squeezed out around the cover.

Bill
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Old Nov 5, 2013 | 12:13 AM
  #294  
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Originally Posted by 1974ta
Lookin Good Scott!

When you put the body mount plate back on the factory use strip caulk to seal it up. Typically it squeezed out around the cover.

Bill
Thanks for the tip, I figured it was black RTV but I will see of I can find strip caulk.
I may take a point deduct for over restoration but I couldn't just do it halfway. Hahaha
Thanks
Scott
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Old Nov 6, 2013 | 12:53 AM
  #295  
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Ok, I am getting ready to have to reassemble the freshly cleaned and painted back 1/3 of the car. Still have a little work left.
Can anyone give me advice on rear shock? Keep in mind I am restoring for flight judging.
Bill, I will also be needing that top secret part soon! Hahaha!
Scott
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Old Nov 6, 2013 | 08:41 AM
  #296  
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Geesh.....you're gonna give Alan a run for his money. Car looks fantastic, keep up the great work.
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Old Nov 6, 2013 | 01:19 PM
  #297  
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Originally Posted by briankeery
Geesh.....you're gonna give Alan a run for his money. Car looks fantastic, keep up the great work.
Thanks man!!! I doubt I can get to Alan71 level but I am going to at least try and have something close..
Scott
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Old Nov 6, 2013 | 04:04 PM
  #298  
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Hi Scott,
Your work looks very good!
Paragon for instance sells a Delco shock that's very close to the originals in appearance. If you paint them 'rear shock gray', and put a broadcast code sticker on them most people will be impressed.
They'll really only be missing the manufacturer's stamp, the part number stamp, and the Julian date code stamp.
Regards,
Alan





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Old Nov 6, 2013 | 04:11 PM
  #299  
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Default Shocks

Originally Posted by Alan 71
Hi Scott,
Your work looks very good!
Paragon for instance sells a Delco shock that's very close to the originals in appearance. If you paint them 'rear shock gray', and put a broadcast code sticker on them most people will be impressed.
They'll really only be missing the manufacturer's stamp, the part number stamp, and the Julian date code stamp.
Regards,
Alan





I am really jealous of those original shocks Alan

Bill
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Old Nov 6, 2013 | 10:32 PM
  #300  
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Thanks Alan and thanks for the tip! I will look to see what I can find.
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