Second rebuild 1973
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Well I don't have a dial guard so I used a feeler gauge to check the play in the yokes.
Pass side
1.55 mm play
Drivers side
4.71mm play
Thinking these numbers aren't too great.
Pass side
1.55 mm play
Drivers side
4.71mm play
Thinking these numbers aren't too great.
Last edited by FatCat; Sep 17, 2013 at 10:10 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,111
Likes: 32
From: Damascus MD
Play
Hi Fatcat.
You can get an inexpensive dial gauge from Harbor freight. Not perfect but will get you some pretty close readings. Generally play is measured in thousandths and not mm.
Those numbers are not too good. 1.55 mm equates to over 60 thousandths. Looks like the stub axles are getting really close to or already rubbing the differential case. Hopefully that has not happened or the casing may be toast. Let's hope not. You seem to make your own good luck
Replacing stub axles and seals is not too bad. Replaced my drivers side for the same reason.
Check the run out on the rear bearings too. Run out should be less than .005 ideally.
How do the u joints look?
Bill
You can get an inexpensive dial gauge from Harbor freight. Not perfect but will get you some pretty close readings. Generally play is measured in thousandths and not mm.
Those numbers are not too good. 1.55 mm equates to over 60 thousandths. Looks like the stub axles are getting really close to or already rubbing the differential case. Hopefully that has not happened or the casing may be toast. Let's hope not. You seem to make your own good luck
Replacing stub axles and seals is not too bad. Replaced my drivers side for the same reason.
Check the run out on the rear bearings too. Run out should be less than .005 ideally.
How do the u joints look?
Bill
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Hi Fatcat.
You can get an inexpensive dial gauge from Harbor freight. Not perfect but will get you some pretty close readings. Generally play is measured in thousandths and not mm.
Those numbers are not too good. 1.55 mm equates to over 60 thousandths. Looks like the stub axles are getting really close to or already rubbing the differential case. Hopefully that has not happened or the casing may be toast. Let's hope not. You seem to make your own good luck
Replacing stub axles and seals is not too bad. Replaced my drivers side for the same reason.
Check the run out on the rear bearings too. Run out should be less than .005 ideally.
How do the u joints look?
Bill
You can get an inexpensive dial gauge from Harbor freight. Not perfect but will get you some pretty close readings. Generally play is measured in thousandths and not mm.
Those numbers are not too good. 1.55 mm equates to over 60 thousandths. Looks like the stub axles are getting really close to or already rubbing the differential case. Hopefully that has not happened or the casing may be toast. Let's hope not. You seem to make your own good luck
Replacing stub axles and seals is not too bad. Replaced my drivers side for the same reason.
Check the run out on the rear bearings too. Run out should be less than .005 ideally.
How do the u joints look?
Bill
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,428
Likes: 5
From: Japan
Scott, you can check the condition of the rear wheel bearings by grabbing the tire(s) at 9&3 and 'rocking' the wheel back and forth.With the car jacked, of course... Ideally there should be almost no noticeable movement there; about 1/8" at the end of the tire equates to the max. allowable (.008") runout at the spindle. Figure if you can feel the tire jiggling an appreciable amount, you need to look into replacing those bearings.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Scott, you can check the condition of the rear wheel bearings by grabbing the tire(s) at 9&3 and 'rocking' the wheel back and forth.With the car jacked, of course... Ideally there should be almost no noticeable movement there; about 1/8" at the end of the tire equates to the max. allowable (.008") runout at the spindle. Figure if you can feel the tire jiggling an appreciable amount, you need to look into replacing those bearings.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 9,272
Likes: 17
harbor freight sells a disk brake runout gauge the has a vice grip for the base, works pretty good on just about everything, specially those places that a flat base, even a magnetic one are difficult to use. basically, not having movement usually means good. dial indicators ,etc..usually are needed to tell you if the movement you have is excessive.
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Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 3,487
Likes: 83
From: Titusville Florida
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 3,487
Likes: 83
From: Titusville Florida
You're a braver man than I, I took my Vette to a shop and just had them deal with removing the diff, if a bolt can be froze on from rust and or 37 years just being there with my luck I will round off the head and then have a mess 
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
So I wanted to check the fit of the fiberglass bumper and have about 1" gap on each side. Is this common, will it have enough flex to pull (sure is rigid) in with nuts or will I have to glass?
Any input will beach appreciated.
Thanks
Scott
Any input will beach appreciated.
Thanks
Scott
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,111
Likes: 32
From: Damascus MD
Fiberglass
I do not think you want to try on pull it but rather sand/grind the bumper to get it right. I suspect the fiberglass will crack if you do.
That fit is not uncommon with after market parts. Whatever you do don't mess with the original fenders.
Bill
That fit is not uncommon with after market parts. Whatever you do don't mess with the original fenders.
Bill
Last edited by 1974ta; Sep 22, 2013 at 08:54 AM. Reason: clarification