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A Frankenstein set with primary pipes from a 1964 sporting a 2.5 inch diameter. The intermediates are from a 1969 as are the mufflers.
I’m impressed with the pipes. Made in Canada. My previous set was 2.25 and quite kinked. Stepping up to 2.5 - these look much bigger for only 1/4 of an inch.
The ram horns exit is 2.5 inches. I really like the way the manifold clears the plugs nicely. The bolts are too long at the collector. That’s an easy fix. Pleased also with the doughnut system.
I am please with the fit.
The mid-hanger is excellent engineering. Compliant enough to conform to the pipe. Stiff enough to stay clear of crossmember. And swings away from crossmember if it droops a little with time.
Seems ok.
As viewed from rear.
And the OEM hanger. I really wanted this in particular restored. Finally away from that awful welded crap from a PO
Last edited by DorianC3; Jan 29, 2024 at 03:51 AM.
Nice progress!
It looks fantastic.
That 2.5” exhaust really looks beefy!
Can I make one suggestion?
While the body is off, run a fuel return line from the engine to the tank and if you don’t hook it up now, just cap it off.
Having the return line to bleed off fuel will help vapor lock ever being an issue, just in case you relocate to a warmer environment, and if you ever decide to change to an EFI system, the required return line is already in.
Nice progress!
It looks fantastic.
That 2.5” exhaust really looks beefy!
Can I make one suggestion?
While the body is off, run a fuel return line from the engine to the tank and if you don’t hook it up now, just cap it off.
Having the return line to bleed off fuel will help vapor lock ever being an issue, just in case you relocate to a warmer environment, and if you ever decide to change to an EFI system, the required return line is already in.
You know, the more I look at this the more I think it would be a good idea to install the return line. Definitely been considering this very seriously.
The oem one on my 73 was never hooked up, but I will be using one with the new engine.
There was a couple times when it was hot out, I stopped for gas and had trouble cranking the engine to get back on the road.
I’ll have the return line and a carb spacer on this build.
The in-tank Holley pump has an internal regulator that returns directly inside the tank. Keeps 60psi constant on the line.
Many new cars work that way.
But you are right, it is easy and cheap to put in a return line now, and a PITA later.
Just do it! In case you ever need it.
When I put in an Atomic EFI, I added two lines, mostly aluminum but all AN fittings & hoses where needed.
Put a regulator and 10 micron filter under the hood, and set it to 48psi IIRC.
The owner could easily swap back to a carb if ever desired.
Less psi is easier on the EFI unit.
Even with a 425HP 383 he did not need high pressure to get enough fuel to the engine.
I think we tuned it to get ~80% max on injector flow at WOT.
Results in more control of injectors at low throttle settings.
He could adjust PSI upwards if he ever needs to compensate for a major mechanical change requiring more fuel flow.
If you crank the psi up or down the EFI just adjust based on O2 readings.
Just more flexible overall.
As much as I am in a rush to slap the body back on, I decided to order the chrome tin, including V-channels and install while the access is good. I might even test fire the engine. It is the perfect opportunity to cut the plug wires to the exact length. I will probably leave the wires on but remove the distributor when installing the body. The V-channels I got off of eBay. They will be under the exhaust manifold, so I don't need them to be spectacular. The bummer is, the rest of the kit ($550 ) is expected to ship in 30 days .
To do now on rolling stock:
Three quarts of Dexron III in TXK
Spray wax inside the frame
Better quality clamps for PS
Repair hole in tire basket
Replace a few bolts with ones of the correct length
Add higher octane fuel
Maybe do an EFI test
And... that's it !!!
Then it is on to the body. There I need to:
Check champion radiator conversion to stock-style pin brackets
Remove brake booster to access and bolt down more securely the hydraulic clutch pedal
Repair vacuum reservoir (it still leaks)
Drill pedal for clutch for better leverage
Repair seat bolt
Repair a hole in the floor
Clean and paint valve covers + new gasket
find a way to get a better clearing Spal fan with our without a shroud.
) is expected to ship in 30 days