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You've come a long way. It would be worth installing the frame channel foam pieces IMO to retard moisture entering the frame & birdcage channel and don't forget the ground straps body/frame (sand those areas for contact ).
Its a good idea to clean/run a thread tap through all body mounting bolt locations before assembly.
Use alignment holes located at the door channel(s) on each side when dropping the body to the frame.
Looking good
You've come a long way. It would be worth installing the frame channel foam pieces IMO to retard moisture entering the frame & birdcage channel and don't forget the ground straps body/frame (sand those areas for contact ).
Its a good idea to clean/run a thread tap through all body mounting bolt locations before assembly.
Use alignment holes located at the door channel(s) on each side when dropping the body to the frame.
Looking good
Thanks.
Wait, what ?!? I have never heard of channel foam pieces. Learn something every day. Will try to find some.
Already chased the threads of the frame’s caged nuts. They are working perfectly. New ground straps all around and sanded. Yes. That needs to be on list, not just in my mind.
FYI
There is one more foam piece.
The "horsecollar" that goes on top of the bellhousing and seals to the trans tunnel.
Prevents a lot of hot engine air from getting in there.
Supposed to help a lot with cabin heat.
Last edited by leigh1322; Mar 10, 2024 at 12:09 PM.
I think Corvette Central used to carry replacement sections of frames.
I know they carry the windshield frame sections.
It may be easier to find a donor frame to cut up for those sections.
i decided to sort and catalog the leftover parts. I probably should have done this since the start. It probably would have made my life easier instead of hunting through unmarked boxes. On other hand 99.9% of parts were ziplocked and tagged.
My little helper …
Checking if I’m doing the job right…
Pulling bags if they are not properly sorted.
One of the main reasons I started this project. To replace the aluminum body mounts with rubber. I somehow don’t have the heart to throw these away.
No clue where this came from.
This I think cane from spare tire basket, but I don’t think this is actually a Corvette part.
I’ve been moving all the unused parts boxes onto one shelf in the garage.
The other day I came across the front spreader bar I completely forgot that I already bought.
I’ve been moving all the unused parts boxes onto one shelf in the garage.
The other day I came across the front spreader bar I completely forgot that I already bought.
That’s a thing, isn’t it? I’m forgetting parts that o had Not economical to purchase a second time.
You might want to find some oem style carriage bolts for the steering box and brace.
The hex heads will rip open the side wall of the tire if you ever lock the steering and the tire makes contact.
Just a suggestion.
You might want to find some oem style carriage bolts for the steering box and brace.
The hex heads will rip open the side wall of the tire if you ever lock the steering and the tire makes contact.
Just a suggestion.
Aaaah. I thought I read something somewhere about that. Many thanks. Probably next to impossible to find here
I’m digging the quality This is supposed to clear my ram horns. My current dipstick tube was battered into conformance and looks like crap. Not acceptable.
Required it seems… a lower dipstick tube.
And since I’ll be customizing my spark plug wires, for a few bucks, much easier than using a bench vice. I think I’ll appreciate this purchase.
So, as usual, a job that should have taken an hour took at least three times that.
It started out nicely. The old dipstick tube came out with no fuss. I thought that was a good sign.
Reasons to replace this. - ugly, doesn’t clear the exhaust manifold as well as I’d like, I’ve had too many pressed in dipstick tubes leak and fail. I wanted one that was bolted down and with a dipstick that locks in place.
Enter Lokar. Trimming the bracket and drilling a new hole was required.
What took me a long time was figuring out why the dipstick read very low. I had to use an endoscope and some figuring. It turns out that there is some sort of baffle in the oil pan and the cable dipstick was catching on it. Solution a bend in the cable and “clock” it. I’m not thrilled I had to do this, but… I still think it’s worth it. I hope this will clear the booster with no issues. The stock one was a bit of a pain with that. Finally, I do like Lokar, but their dipsticks are hard to read, especially fresh oil.
Lockar’s are nice.
I’ll probably use one on my build.
The dipstick on our new truck is hard to read as well and getting older with poorer eyesight doesn’t help either.
Lockar’s are nice.
I’ll probably use one on my build.
The dipstick on our new truck is hard to read as well and getting older with poorer eyesight doesn’t help either.
Yep. My eyesight decline with age is not helping either. I’m actually keeping the old dipstick as a backup because it is easier to read
Not economical to purchase a second time.
