you know you can’t just post that picture without showing the rest of the car….

 

Typically the drivers side gets the PCV to help with evacuation due to the direction of rotation of the engine and the flow of gases inside the crankcase.

 

here it is but its a c2

 

Wow! That's a beautiful car! Make my C3 look like the ugly sister.

 

I do love my 69 mostly just autocross it though .

 

Wow. You are blessed my friend.

 

Both badass. I do like the 69 a little better.

 

Like them both. The C2 though...the restomod is in really good taste, some restomods go too far, that one is just right. How's the interior? If you get tired of it, let me know.

 

The c2 is everything brand new vansteele coil overs tko 600 ididit tilt wheel borgeson box vintage air all new in and out .

 

Well the old saying hard work pays off sometimes.

 

Good to know. Mine is on the ps currently.

 

Check out this data.
http://mewagner.com/?p=1130

You stick popping up is just a short term symptom. Long term, the effects of inadequate evacuation of blowby is detrimental to the engine for several reasons. One way or another this should be addressed for engine longevity.

 

Good information, thanks.

 

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1604427919

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1604372186

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1604386206

Cliffs: Every engine requires PCV. The more performance, the more PCV. PCV just means crankcase pressure control theory understanding to a performance enthusiast, you must grasp fundamentals of crankcase pressure control theory to understand performance at the highest tier or level. The higher the output/performance of a vehicle the more attention is paid to it's PCV system and crankcase pressure, because PCV is essential to oil control and piston ring efficiency and oil sealing properties and engine longevity (oil quality & wear depend on PCV in longevity applications).

The basic principle or goal:
Crankcase pressure should be measured by a 2-bar map sensor, or gauge, and set properly using PCV orifice and design control systems.
Crankcase pressure is a value which must be set the same way boost pressure and oil pressure is set: to some specific number.

Basic understanding of significance of crankcase pressure:
Anytime crankcase pressure rises above atmospheric, oil will begin to fill the engine oil baffle system and overflow from the engine and oil seals.
This affects all engines, natural aspiration, forced induction, everything combustion with a piston ring will face these issues.

The piston ring blow-by gas causes crankcase pressure to rise. At this point, if vented, the engine will blow oil because in order to blow crankcase pressure OUT of the engine through an atmospheric vent system, the pressure must rise above atmospheric pressure.
Therefore, there is no way to reliably evacuate a crankcase using a vent to atmosphere system, it is not PCV to vent to atmosphere. The words PCV literally stand for "positive C V" where the term "positive" is reflected in the pressure drop associated with pulling crankcase gas from the crankcase before it has a chance to blow out and rise above atmospheric pressure.

Target crankcase pressure for wet sump applications is 0.5" to 1.5" Hg with some engines running 3" Hg or more depending on how PCV is done. Vacuum pumps can provide 12" Hg or 15" Hg etc... but this is not recommended or required for Wet Sump engines.

More details in the link provided which cover how to do this.

 

One result could be the china rails blowing out....

 

Thank you all for the education on Crankcase pressure issues!
I have been meaning to put the ME-Wagner PCV on my high compression 427. That is one well designed piece of equipment and would far exceed the original PCV and help my engine run better and cleaner. My 427 is running 12.25-1 Compression using L88 pistons and I want to be sure that I control the blowby as the engine ages. More compression can sometimes lead to more blow-by so the ME-Wagner PCV is the way I want to go.

One question, WHY was the blowby so high on the OP's new engine? Did the engine not get the pistons rings seated properly or what happened to make that much blowby pressure on a "new" engine? I ran my 427 on Startup Oil (non-detergent) for the first 1000 miles and it was running great and the compression was even on all eight cylinders. By that point my oil consumption had dropped to very low and there is virtually no pressure in the engine any more. That is when I switched to synthetic oil and have had no problems since then.

I had blowby suddenly appear on a 1970 LT1 engine due to a #6 Piston breaking between the rings and leaking the 11-1 compression. It was obvious something happened to make the extra blowby the engine suddenly had so I started with a compression test which showed the zero psi in the #6 cylinder. I dropped the oil pan and pulled the intake and head off and then removed the bad piston, honed the cylinder and re-installed the New Piston and Rings and bolted her back together. That is not the best way to build an engine or even fix an engine but in a pinch it can work.

What was the reason the used Draft Tubes on the engine's in the old days? I have a 1968 L88 factory Hood and it has provisions for a Draft Tube to be used. All the blowby was pushed up into my intake area. Since I don't have a draft tube I blocked the hole off. Any advantages to using the draft tubes?
Thanks again!

 

my engine was broken in by the builder. My guess for the dipstick popping out is not enough evacuation in higher rpms. I’m considering the gz sportsman pump system as that’s what the builder uses. Anyone have any insight into this system?

 

So I just spoke to GZ Sportsman out of Kentucky. The kit is 829$ for a sbc but they will do some discounts the more guys that buy one. Anyone interested in this kit?

 

Here’s the link for reference

https://www.gzmotorsports.com/CPVK10...-pump-kit.html

 

Why not put that money towards repairing the cause of your blowby?