C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

no start help here

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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 09:02 PM
  #61  
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You can tell the state of charge by measuring the no load voltage on the battery terminals. 12.0 volts and lower, discharged, charge your battery up overnight. 12.9 volts and higher, fully charged and linear in between. During cranking, the battery terminal voltage should not fall below 9.0 volts or you have poor battery cable connection, discharged battery, or a battery that is at the end of its life.
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 08:42 AM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by jfb
You can tell the state of charge by measuring the no load voltage on the battery terminals. 12.0 volts and lower, discharged, charge your battery up overnight. 12.9 volts and higher, fully charged and linear in between. During cranking, the battery terminal voltage should not fall below 9.0 volts or you have poor battery cable connection, discharged battery, or a battery that is at the end of its life.
like I say. I will do the battery test but. the battery is olmost 2 weeks old
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 11:34 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by hitmanpty
like I say. I will do the battery test but. the battery is olmost 2 weeks old
2 week old batteries can be discharged and 2 week old batteries can be defective and that is why you measure their voltage under no load and then under load to find out their condition.
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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 08:35 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by jfb
2 week old batteries can be discharged and 2 week old batteries can be defective and that is why you measure their voltage under no load and then under load to find out their condition.
ok I will
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Old Dec 6, 2011 | 12:09 PM
  #65  
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Here are the news. on my problem.

I never did the voltage test on the battery. (stupid me) I take out the starter motor. toke the motor to a shop. and they test the motor in front of me.

and guest what. the starter motor work just find. is ok motor.


so Like I say before. I did a test light on the starter motor. my brother turn the key. and I get light on so I know the key most be working good . and Iam getting power there

I have to do the voltage test.

one thing I am not sure now. Dit I connect the key cable to the "S" terminal on solenoid. or to the "R" terminal..

so couple of think I will have to check now. correct connection and battery voltage under load.

Last edited by hitmanpty; Dec 6, 2011 at 12:13 PM.
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Old Dec 6, 2011 | 12:11 PM
  #66  
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I have a analogo voltimeter at home. dont really know how to use this thing. it have a *** that you turn and select differents measurements.

dont know how to test the battery for voltage. or charge.
can someone explane in a very simple way this prosedure.
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Old Dec 6, 2011 | 01:32 PM
  #67  
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You might want to post a picture of it so we can see the controls.

Most volt/ohm meters will have a voltage setting marked by a V or the word Volt and a graphic showing a solid line above a dashed line. Set your dial there.

You will have two jacks where you plug in the probe wires. The black one is ground---connect it to the negative post of your battery or a chassis ground. The red one is for the voltage you are measuring, just connect it to whatever you want to probe.
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Old Dec 6, 2011 | 02:54 PM
  #68  
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this is just about the same the one I have

[IMG][/IMG]
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Old Dec 6, 2011 | 03:34 PM
  #69  
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Ok.

So you want the DCV section...what does it say under the 500, I can't make it out?

I think you want the 50 setting.

Put the black wire into the jack marked "-" & connect it to the negative battery terminal or chassis ground.

Put the red wire into the + terminal & use it to probe the voltage.

If the scale max's out choose a higher voltage setting, if it's unreadably low try a lower setting.
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Old Dec 6, 2011 | 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 3D87C4
Ok.

So you want the DCV section...what does it say under the 500, I can't make it out?

I think you want the 50 setting.

Put the black wire into the jack marked "-" & connect it to the negative battery terminal or chassis ground.

Put the red wire into the + terminal & use it to probe the voltage.

If the scale max's out choose a higher voltage setting, if it's unreadably low try a lower setting.
below what volt the battery need charging or is bad????
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Old Dec 6, 2011 | 04:26 PM
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Battery.......Approximate........Average Cell
Voltage.....State-of-charge...Specific Gravity
12.66_________100%___________1.265
12.45__________75%___________1.225
12.24__________50%___________1.190
12.06__________25%___________1.155
11.89___________0%___________1.120

from:

http://www.type2.com/library/electrip/batfaq.htm

Wikipedia says 2.1v/cell * 6 cells =12.6v for a lead acid battery

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battery_(electricity)

Last edited by 3D87C4; Dec 6, 2011 at 04:30 PM.
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Old Dec 6, 2011 | 05:01 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by 3D87C4
Battery.......Approximate........Average Cell
Voltage.....State-of-charge...Specific Gravity
12.66_________100%___________1.265
12.45__________75%___________1.225
12.24__________50%___________1.190
12.06__________25%___________1.155
11.89___________0%___________1.120

from:

http://www.type2.com/library/electrip/batfaq.htm

Wikipedia says 2.1v/cell * 6 cells =12.6v for a lead acid battery

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battery_(electricity)
thank you
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Old Dec 7, 2011 | 08:02 AM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by AGENT 86
Before you pull it, what is your battery voltage and will the starter turn if you jumper battery input terminal to starter output terninal, on solenoid. The two big studs on solenoid.

Originally Posted by hitmanpty
I never did the voltage test on the battery. (stupid me) I take out the starter motor. toke the motor to a shop. and they test the motor in front of me.

and guest what. the starter motor work just find. is ok motor.


.





Buy a digital multimeter, they are inexpensive and your project surely has plenty of reasons to buy one.

Watch and learn

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BW3Wj7UD-_s
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Old Dec 7, 2011 | 08:56 AM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by AGENT 86





Buy a digital multimeter, they are inexpensive and your project surely has plenty of reasons to buy one.

Watch and learn

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BW3Wj7UD-_s
thanx
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Old Dec 12, 2011 | 09:49 AM
  #75  
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Update on the no start problem.

Finaly the starter motor work

the problem was . some loose wire. and some wire need to be more tight. the old solenoid. was bad. so the one I get was ok.

I crack the car and the starter motor star working very good. but the car dont start. I crank the key a couple of time. the engine turn. but no start.

I stop. and took a look at the engine. just to find out that the main drive belt is not in place..

Parently. when the motor turn the beld when out of track.

how can this happend'????. after a couple of minutes I notes the air pump pulley was loose. and when I touch the thing it just drop in my hand.


look like the air pump stock and the pulley shaft. broke.

SO NOW i NEED a air pump eliminator kit.

very expensive stuff. the best price I can find is $150

I will open a new thread to get some more informaion about this kit from members
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Old Dec 12, 2011 | 12:05 PM
  #76  
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Man, you can't catch a break.

I'm glad you tracked down the wiring problem, though.

Hang in there. I'm really looking forward to your first cruise thread.
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 07:34 PM
  #77  
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new update on my no start problem

finaly yesterday I get my air pump eliminator kit. It took about 30 days, to get here. aparentely. my miami shipping agency. mist place my package. will try to post pic of that later tomorrow

any way. I instal the kit today. and inmediately set out to start the car.
first time the starter motor crank ok. the motor sound like is going to start, but no start of the engine first time. . gust after so long need a second crank.

gust what. second time turn key. nothing from the starter motor. again.

I inmediately did a light test to the starter. and I get good current when key turn.


so here is the problem again

only this time. the first time the starter motor work ok. secont time nothing. not even a sound from the solenoid.

Iam beganing to think the starter motor have some kind of a intermitent. problem.

any advice or sugestion welcome.

I think tomorrow I will drop the starter again and open sent itto rebuild.
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 07:36 PM
  #78  
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Just an Idea.
how about hiting the starter motor with a hammer?????
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 10:27 PM
  #79  
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Maybe your battery has drained a bit while waiting for the air pump eliminator and only had enough juice for the one crank? You might want to charge it up fresh and try again.

I just took a quick look through your thread...since you're still using the original starter I suppose it's possible it has an intermittant problem. I just hate to recommend replacing it til you're sure.

A tap with a hammer might help, but don't wail away on it til you're sure you're going to replace it (and anything else you might break in the process).

Good luck, and a Happy(er) New Year,

Wayne
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 11:30 PM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by 3D87C4
Maybe your battery has drained a bit while waiting for the air pump eliminator and only had enough juice for the one crank? You might want to charge it up fresh and try again.

I just took a quick look through your thread...since you're still using the original starter I suppose it's possible it has an intermittant problem. I just hate to recommend replacing it til you're sure.

A tap with a hammer might help, but don't wail away on it til you're sure you're going to replace it (and anything else you might break in the process).

Good luck, and a Happy(er) New Year,

Wayne
I dont think is the battery. If the battery was low, at list i will get some kind of responce from the starter
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