C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

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Old Nov 26, 2011 | 09:47 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by hitmanpty
Th e solonoid is new no need to open to check contact
Well……it clicked before you disassembled it and now it does nothing. It sounds like you connected the wires correctly back on it. If there is no voltage on S, then there is a problem with the car and not the starter. But if there is voltage there, I don’t know how to fix the starter but to pull it out again and see why it is not working.
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Old Nov 26, 2011 | 09:55 PM
  #42  
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Like i say iam on my phone iam reading all the messeges will write when i get home
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Old Nov 26, 2011 | 10:10 PM
  #43  
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Not sure what to suggest...

You have the schematics from your earlier threads.

You've tried the new solenoid and battery with both the "switch" and corrected wiring & relay bypass, right?

With no sound at the solenoid I'm thinking either 12v isn't reaching the solenoid or there is a ground problem.

By now you have touched every connection needed except maybe the ground to the new battery and/or the ground strap between the engine and the frame. If you're sure the new solenoid works (definitely test it) then I'm afraid you need to start over & recheck all the connections per the schematic.

It's frustrating, but you know where all the wires are and had it working. Just go through it again systematically. Something probably got loose or shorted when you changed the battery and/or solenoid.

You can do it.
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Old Nov 26, 2011 | 10:33 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by hitmanpty
ok you are telling me that i have to check if there is 12v on the "s" terminal. when I crank the car. that what you asking.?

if that is the question. the aswer is I dont know
Yes, that is the question. Unless you have a helper to turn the ignition switch to crank, while you have a test light or meter on the "S" terminal, you will have to move at the speed of light.
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Old Nov 26, 2011 | 11:00 PM
  #45  
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I think tomorrow i will tray there screw driver trick. I guest if there starter motor work after that. Them i guest the problem is on the car wireing

tell me if iam correcto??????

Last edited by hitmanpty; Nov 26, 2011 at 11:02 PM.
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Old Nov 26, 2011 | 11:17 PM
  #46  
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I know you are trying to save some cash but I would just drop a whole new starter in there and be done with it... buts that just me... I like to have all new parts...
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Old Nov 26, 2011 | 11:27 PM
  #47  
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Not sure if the starter is damage yet .i hace to be sure firt
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Old Nov 27, 2011 | 12:07 AM
  #48  
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Did the original solenoid you removed have an R terminal? I don't think it did and you may have been given a wrong solenoid.
Also, the terminal on the right should have the large wire from the battery connected to it. It looks like a piece of copper tubing comes out of the right terminal. I have never seen anything like that.
What AGENT 86 is saying is, you should measure the voltage on the S terminal while someone turns the ign sw to the start position (fully clockwise) and you should measure 12v.
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Old Nov 27, 2011 | 12:10 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by pcolt94
Well……it clicked before you disassembled it and now it does nothing. It sounds like you connected the wires correctly back on it. If there is no voltage on S, then there is a problem with the car and not the starter. But if there is voltage there, I don’t know how to fix the starter but to pull it out again and see why it is not working.
I will do some test tomorrow
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Old Nov 27, 2011 | 12:12 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by 3D87C4
Not sure what to suggest...

You have the schematics from your earlier threads.

You've tried the new solenoid and battery with both the "switch" and corrected wiring & relay bypass, right?

With no sound at the solenoid I'm thinking either 12v isn't reaching the solenoid or there is a ground problem.

By now you have touched every connection needed except maybe the ground to the new battery and/or the ground strap between the engine and the frame. If you're sure the new solenoid works (definitely test it) then I'm afraid you need to start over & recheck all the connections per the schematic.

It's frustrating, but you know where all the wires are and had it working. Just go through it again systematically. Something probably got loose or shorted when you changed the battery and/or solenoid.

You can do it.
I will check the 12v on the starter tomorrow I get back with the resultados
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Old Nov 27, 2011 | 12:16 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by jfb
Did the original solenoid you removed have an R terminal? I don't think it did and you may have been given a wrong solenoid.
Also, the terminal on the right should have the large wire from the battery connected to it. It looks like a piece of copper tubing comes out of the right terminal. I have never seen anything like that.
What AGENT 86 is saying is, you should measure the voltage on the S terminal while someone turns the ign sw to the start position (fully clockwise) and you should measure 12v.
yes the original solenoid had "R" terminal
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Old Nov 27, 2011 | 12:25 AM
  #52  
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The R terminal is not used in modern cars and no wire needs to go to it.
You need to measure the voltage on the S terminal when someone turns the ignition sw to start (fully clockwise). You should measure 12v and if not, then you need to find out why the start enable relay is not sending 12v.
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Old Nov 27, 2011 | 12:29 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by jfb
The R terminal is not used in modern cars and no wire needs to go to it.
You need to measure the voltage on the S terminal when someone turns the ignition sw to start (fully clockwise). You should measure 12v and if not, then you need to find out why the start enable relay is not sending 12v.
If you are by yourself you can do this to measure the solenoid voltage.

Get a long wire with a clip lead to go from the top to bottom of car. Then clip it on "S" and bring wire to top of engine compartment. Connect your (+) lead of your meter to the wire, and ground the (-) terminal of the meter to the engine somewhere on metal. Position the meter so you can sit in the car and see the meter. Then you can turn the key and see if there is 12 volts on the solenoid on pin "S".

Last edited by pcolt94; Nov 27, 2011 at 03:48 PM.
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Old Nov 28, 2011 | 08:46 PM
  #54  
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ok I whent out and get me a test light

them....I get under the car. my brother help me by starting the car with the key

I get a good groud for the test light. and the other end I connected to "s" terminal.


when my brother crank the car I get a light on in the starter.

so i know now I get power to the starter motor when i crank the car. so the problem is the starter motor.

the funny thing is that, the solenoid is new. and when you crank the car it make no noise what so ever. considering is getting power. and is new.(extrange)

any way next thing i will do is to pull down the starter motor (gain). And do a bench test, of the starter.

I guest after that I will have to get a new starter motor anyway.


(One thing is for sure. I did a very good job on the VAT elimination).

Last edited by hitmanpty; Nov 28, 2011 at 08:49 PM.
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 07:40 AM
  #55  
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Rebuilt starter $35 AutoZone
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 07:53 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by hitmanpty
before I remove the old battery. I had a direct wire from the battery to the starter. It was activate with a push bottom. ( the car came that way).

first the car start this way with out a problem, but as the time past it become more dificult to start, at the end, I push the buttom I only hear the clcik. that is the main reason I get a new battery. them I remove the push bottom cable, now I use the key for start.

I guest if before a wire was connected direct to battery and the problem was the same. them the problem is the starter. right????
Did you bypass the starter relay?
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 08:33 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by hitmanpty
ok I whent out and get me a test light

them....I get under the car. my brother help me by starting the car with the key

I get a good groud for the test light. and the other end I connected to "s" terminal.


when my brother crank the car I get a light on in the starter.

so i know now I get power to the starter motor when i crank the car. so the problem is the starter motor.

the funny thing is that, the solenoid is new. and when you crank the car it make no noise what so ever. considering is getting power. and is new.(extrange)

any way next thing i will do is to pull down the starter motor (gain). And do a bench test, of the starter.

I guest after that I will have to get a new starter motor anyway.


(One thing is for sure. I did a very good job on the VAT elimination).
Before you pull it, what is your battery voltage and will the starter turn if you jumper battery input terminal to starter output terninal, on solenoid. The two big studs on solenoid.
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 08:42 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by buzzlightyear
Rebuilt starter $35 AutoZone
that will be a good idea. we dont have auto zone down here. but I know couple of places, that do the job
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 08:46 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by AGENT 86
Before you pull it, what is your battery voltage and will the starter turn if you jumper battery input terminal to starter output terninal, on solenoid. The two big studs on solenoid.
Dont know what is my battery voltage. But I will check next time. just not consider that option because the battery was new.

I will do the jumper test also. may be I did something wrong when I install the new solenoid.

how much voltage output I be getting from the battery when I turn the key????.

and sure I take this voltage test from the solenoid ????
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 08:48 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by DMheart
Did you bypass the starter relay?
yes. I bypass the starter relay.
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