I think it wouls still seal...but no way you're going to get 1206 cross sectional size throughout the runner, I don't think.

 

Exactly. That blue trim around the ports extends out past with a 1206. It just seals on the 1205. Its not a lot but I'm leaving it. For the minimal it'll add because of how choked the rest of the runner is.

 

Its not finished but I did a ton of grinding. My arms hurt lol. Also found a four leaf clover lol

 

Lookin' good!


As the Isuzu commercial used to say...."KEEP GOING!"

 

My problem at the moment is this. I'm not going any further on the floor at the inlet to the head simply because there isn't a lot of material to not have it punch through left... I know I can braze or epoxy it but I also know with my luck shortly after I'll hydrolock a cylinder lol. So I'm leaving that safe. The floor at the runner inlet in the plenum I'm leaving as well. My bits don't like to grind that way.

So I am doing roof and walls as far as I'm comfortable with tomorrow and calling it good. I feel there is a point where the returns will be diminishing and that by trying all of those I will be there. It is definitely one of the more hacked ones I've seen but I don't have the good luck others do to push it further.

I learned dad used to do port work on boats. (One of the few things he never really told me) and on 2 strokes it helps a lot. But he said it looks darn good so far. The otherside and cleanup should do it well with blending.

I used a chalk powder and a shopvac to see how it flows and woth the naked eye the path looks much better. Less bends and smoother transition. If i could get all the way in I would but I only have 6 inch burrs and that only gets me (chucked right) half of the runner and I can't snake it from the plenum side with that well.... so there will be a chunk That I may end up filing instead.

More beer is needed

 

Looks like your making headway, now smooth it all out using cone and drum sanding tips. I bought a lot from harbor freight and a local supply dealer and had a lot of good success with them. Dial down your air pressure if you can when using them since your not trying to be as aggressive, just straighten/smooth/contour and blend everything. I did a lot of that all by hand on all the early Renegades when I did my own personal touches to them. They all looked nice. Your hands get tired huh? Lots of carbon in that EGR runner huh?

 

That's brilliant! I LOVE that idea. Very clever!



The late, great CFI-EFI had the same issue and came up with a killer solution: a drill bit extension. He used a simple drill bit extension to get way more than enough length to go all the way through the runner from the head side, and then he used a simple piece of pipe as a mid-shaft bearing so he'd have control over the thing. Funny part; the pipe was a piece of 1/4" pipe, about 4" long with NPT on both ends. When he was done grinding he'd filled a large coffee can, over flowing with grindings....and the pips was about 2.5" long, threads long gone, and it was flared..."blown open" at both ends. But it lasted the job and helped him get it done, all the way through the runners. I have a video of THAT intake in his car (stock engine, converter, exhaust) beating a '92 LT1 at our track. The LT1 had LT's/exhaust, and a host of other minor mods, and the ported intake/manifolds back exhaust CFI took it down.

Jim had ground out that intake until the walls/floors/ceilings were paper thin...and punched through in many places. He repaired all the breaches w/moldable epoxy, and the thing ran awesome for years, for him.

KEEP GOING...and, RACE ON!!!


.

 

Yea I don't think the car this intake came off of had a lot of life left in it lol.

And yea, all the equipment I am using is old as crap so its stupid heavy just to hold. My bench is also too tall (or short depending on which side of the intake you're grinding) to have a relaxed grip so my wrists are always twisted awkwardly.

The nice thing is the grinder is an astro and it has the speed adjuster built in so i can dial it down like that. The regulator on the tank is stuck at 100 sadly. I have plenty of sand paper for the blends. My dad told me to notch a 1/4 rod and stick emery in the end and use it as a flap roll to blend everything.
I'll keep going then. And look for a drill extension. I can probably fill a coffee can at this rate. My shopvac has about a 1/8 inch pile in the bottom...

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brush-Resea...oAAOSwti5cdD-K you can use somthing like this inside the runners after the burr , i did

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1Pc-150mm-L...MAAOSwV0RXqyHp this is the type of burr i used ,

 

I'm loving this endeavor. Everyone just port matches CFI Intakes and calls that "ported". Frequently, people dink around with the entrances, but don't really know what they're doing on that end, or why. You're PORTING it. I love it!

 

Might have to grab one of them. Much longer than the ones I have

 

I have metal in places metal shouldn't be. I'm calling that done based on the pile in the bottom of the shop vac. There is probably an equal amount on the floor still.

 

Give it a day's rest...then grind some more!

When I tapered my lid bores, I bolted the TB's to them, then started the taper outward in the TB, and transitioned that into the lid hole. That left a seamless transition from the TB Bore, to the plenum.

 

We'll see. I have graduation tomorrow and honestly am terrified of grinding out any more lol. My burrs actually got noticeably duller after all that.

 

I have some pretty long bits that can make it all the way up the intake runners.
also sand paper rolls, and cross buffs!

looomg shafts, the good ones seem to be a tad thicker to prevent bending.

Ebay!

If needed, i can try and find them again.
there are a few good sellers that have good prices.

I also found something like wd40 helps while removing material.
much easier on the bits, removes material quicker, and cleaner cuts.
side effect of also being easier to control.

I also found that a wood type file with aggressive material removing teeth works great in the runners.

Something i used before i got the better tools.

a couple of the runners on my renegade had a bit too much material...

 

So I have seat of the pants baseline data now. The car feels like it stops making more steam around 4000. Judging by the VE table that would seem about right. It's reving but not making much more power... Leaving my foot in it it feels like it just doesn't want to spin past 6100 or so. Which is about right for the cam as well... It should peak around 5800 and carry to 6200. But am I making more power there than say 5000? That my friends is why I want dyno data for A/B comparison sake.

 

There's got to be a bunch of dynos around you?

I KNOW there are drag tracks!

 

I'm going on East Coasts hub dyno. Its just a matter of when I'm going there. (Work and everything)

Englishtown closed and Atco is pretty far. That being said the results at either would not be fair as well... they're both notoriously fast tracks lol. The dyno removes me having an off day too. It won't lie. And east coast is one of the most reputable ones I can think of.

I just want to see how calibrated my butt meter is when I do put on the ported unit.

Also, I'm one of those at risk with this virus crap as well as my immediate household. So I avoid going anywhere out of their safety more than anything.

 

I didn't know Englishtown closed...that is a bummer.

Copy all the rest.