Stealth Light Cannons: Development process




How easy would it be to "add" to the shroud? E.g. could I use glass or body filler to build a cover over the back of the light from the beauty ring to the top of the "tube" in your shroud? To my taste, that would make the shroud about a 9/10

ABS is one of thosee joyous plastics that can bee easily "welded: to itself using MEK (commonly available at hardware stores) You will need to melt some ABS shavings in the MEK, then use it as a glue to melt your new pieces to the existing shroud. You will obviosly need to sand down the finished product but when the MEK dries, the ABS beecomes one solid piece. A note about adding in that area though, there is a VERY small clearance from the projector top to the bottom of the lens, you may not have a lot of space to work with. Make sure to test fit your design.
thought on lens painting: lay a LOT of transparent scotch tape (the type in the green) over the lens. with a pencil, draw a line where you want the paint to start. then gently cut away the tape from the section to be painted. This will also let you see if your paint line will affect your output.
First road test tomorrow!!
Last edited by TheRadioFlyer97; Nov 22, 2009 at 09:33 PM.
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thought on lens painting: lay a LOT of transparent scotch tape (the type in the green) over the lens. with a pencil, draw a line where you want the paint to start. then gently cut away the tape from the section to be painted. This will also let you see if your paint line will affect your output.
First road test tomorrow!!

PS..I may even go to my friends place who does vinyl graphics and see if he has something that I could use as a eybrow instead of paint. I know some of that vinyl is pretty shiny and it would be removeable

Im not trying to knock anyone for doing it if you pay for them you can do as you please. I know that George had said there wasn't much room to make the shrouds similar to the C6. If you can make it happen, then by all means do

BRILLIANT!!

The projector itself has a useable width of about 120 degrees... something I consider more than adequate for a sports car. Installing the shroud decreases the width to about 110 degrees, thought a lot of this is due to the lens distortion on the outer edge.
Another subject: the high beam bulb upgrades. This is a test of the 55w halogen base and the HIR bulb. HIR bulb is on the left, base is on the right. This shot is of them on the floor because I didn’t have a good wall to shoot them as comparison shot at the same time. Exposure was set to -1 to show the pattern rather than brightness.

LED strip option. It has been advised that these strips are heat sensitive so I will NOT be mounting these in front of the projectors. My suggestion for these is to mount them across the top either just behind the projector cutouts or all the way to the rear. These test strips have a white circuit board but the ones with the kit will have a black circuit board to blend with the ABS. For best results I would paint an eyebrow on the lens to hide the strip from view except from the front.
Test shots with various settings



And onto the grand finale: the first ever SLC prototype mounted.
Notes: The original design called for tight tolerances, however I’ve learned that it may be better to increase these tolerances to allow for end-user adjustment. This will be reflected in the production version. The prototype is a little “rough on the edges” however it’s purpose is to test performance, durability ease of installation and various adjustments.
The SLC frames and projector mounted;

The following outdoor pics were taken at -2 exposure to better show the outline of the lights and the pattern. For some reason this drastically affected how the camera picked up color. The HID kit used is a 6000K 55w HID and the highs beams are the base model halogen.
Low beams only:


Pattern at ~15’

High beams:

High beam pattern at ~15’

Lows and Highs:

high/low pattern at ~15’ exposure and ISO setting reduced to show pattern comparison. This is VERY bright.

First road test notes:
The beam pattern is significantly wider than my E55 projectors. It is by far the most stable setup I’ve yet installed. The pattern has a rather large step and a sharper cutoff than the LC 2.0s.
Or can you just install aircraft landing lighs in them??



Yes, I want to disturb the dead.
















