Awesome. What's the difficulty rating for this mod? I'm comffy, R&Ring a clutch, but wires make me apprehensive.

Also wanted to talk about head lamp alignment. Years ago, in tech school, I learned how to align headlamps with a device that was butted up against an incandescent lamp. It was a box on wheels that could move up and down to accomodate any height vehicle. Opposite the bulb was a set off cross hairs on a grid. Above that, top part of the box, was a dark green (think acetylene welding) glass. You turned on the lamp and looked through the green glass and put the drivers hot spot (brightest area of the beam) to the right and bellow the cross hairs. This was done to keep the on coming traffic from being blinded or blinding to a minimum. That's how you aligned the drivers side. Passenger was dead center of the cross hairs. That's why the pattern observed always seemd to be a lower case "d" pattern.
High beams were aligned on cross hairs both sides, because you weren't to use them on city streets with on coming traffic.
What I'm going to do is mark off on my garage door and my floor. On the door, I'll mark off my hot spot on the OEMs. On the floor, tire contact patch. Then I'll align the SLCs the same way. Hopefully this will keep the cops off me after my mod.
At a car club meeting with the police leason, he basically said any mod to a car was illegal. Just chiming in my two cents.

 

The installation is VERY easy. I've found that there is no need to get under the car so jacking/lifting will not be requried. Wiring will be plug and play for the base kit. If you want an LED strip or Halo option some splicing/soldering will be required.

The device you refer to is specifically for halogen reflector-based headlights. Personally i hate them and always adjusted my headlights to where I can see....THEN I change to suit other driver's comforts.

projector headlights do not require this device for aiming. Vertical adjustment is the most important wheras transverse adjustment has minimal if any effect. I'm tinkering with aiming mine at the moment and will include detailed instructions with the installation guide.

 

cant wait to see the final shroud....with lighting options

 

Hmmm. Ok, then I'll just wait and have them shipped to me. I was thinking about leaving my car at my friends house and taking his H3 back to EP so you could do the install. If it's easy, plug and play, then I believe I can install it my self.

 

After the initial test drive, I got a better idea of what tweaking needed to be done (mostly due to the side of the frame rails not being perfectly perpendicular to the ground) I enlarged the mounting holes for both the frame and projector to allow for additional adjustments and more washers will be used as a result of the larger holes.

I also took this test shot that vaguely shows the difference between the 4300K (drivers side) and 6000K (passenger side) Thee actual colors are closer to yellow on the spectrum, but the difference is about the same



Evening test shots: exposure set to -1.

Off:






On:










Pattern:


First road test!

 

They look good. Do the lenses need adjustment?

 

yes a little bit. Note that both the red and black cars have an imporperly aligned front bumper on the passenger side.

I'm expecing the first of the new shrouds early next week. at which point I will ship out the first of the kits.

 

That's your "money shot", right there...

 

those look very nice.

 

beautiful, now curious on the price

 

It was already posted, base kit is $1275

 

Geez. Those are bright. In that video you can see EVERYTHING coming up.

 

man they are beautiful really beautiful .

 

Nice work George

 

As soon as the new shrouds are finished, I will start the GP with one more set of "nice" test shots out in my favriote parking lot.

I'm considering offering an additional option: The Radioflyer's Special: This will be the exact setup I run in my car: instead of using the Hella 60mm modules, it would use Hella E55 Bi-xenon projectors or Acura's TL bi-xenon projectors. The main (outer) projector would be white HID (5000-8000K) and the inner projector would be 35w HID 3000K golden yellow for road racing, poor weather etc. Both would have the Bi-xenon high beam feature. You could switch between the two with a simple relay harness I would provide and an interior aftermarket switch.

note: this will require trimming of the fender well, splicing, and drilling a holee for the switch somewhere in the cockpit. This kit is NOT for the faint of heart. Once i confirm all the clearances needed, i will post pics (of course) and price)

 

Whoa. Stop the press. OK, I admit, I am ignorant when it comes to projectors, HID, etc. Are these Bi-xenon two sepreate colors of lights in one housing?? For example, could I run around during the day with the 3000k on using them as DRL's, (similar to the C6) and then once the sun sets and I turn on the headlights the 3000K lights go off and the 5000K lights come on to illuminate the night? Throw me a bone here!

 

Whoa. These do look good. I'll have to see if there's some cash in santa's stash. Good work George.

 

I've seen on some cars the factory put little levels on the projector/headlamp tops. One lengthwise, one front to back. I wonder if those could be purchased at a hardware store, or if I'd have to buy multi-level and take it apart. Hmmm. Have to hit up Lowe's.

 

I still want bi-xenons on my Light Cannons. I just don't wanna pay the cost. Heh.

 

A bi-xenon projector is a low and high beam projector in the same housing. The output pattern changed when power is applied to a soleniod that moves the cutoff shield. The cool thing is that this is instantanious and does not require the lighting of an additional high beam bulb. The action is so quick they can evn bee hooked up to an LED strobe control for a nice show effect.

Here are mine:

Low beams:


High beams:



I wanted to get these, but found there was no real purpose for them and no place to mount them where they would help in aiming. The big key is making sure your car is sitting on level ground and your target wall is the same height.

On another note, have hit a slight snafu...

in direct sunlight, the projector lenses refract the sunlight into a focal point that just happens to hit the shroud about 1/2 to 1" in front of the projector itself depending on the angle to the sun. This cuts s nice little hole in the shroud....which is annoying to say the least. I'm currently researching other options on plastics with higher thermal resistance or possibly an aluminum shield that can be placed around the projector. Specter werkes sanded the surface of the upper half of their projectors to prevent this but that will be a tool of last resort.