I just did the same!

 

Awesome. This is one mod I believe everyone should do. $20 and five minutes of your time are totally worth it. Glad you like the new lights!

 

Mine shipped yesterday.

 

I got mine installed before RF moved north. My first and only mod so far. Along with RF headlights.

 

RF/EMI moving north?... OMG!!!

 

Glad other's have had success with these Genssi LEDs but it looks like I got a bad set. I installed the bulbs last night, but didn't get to immediately check there operation. When I went to check that they worked today, before leaving the house, one of the two shut off within seconds of having the light turned on. Thankfully, I decided to open things up to see if maybe the bulb was just not seated fully. It was, but it physically was burning up internally. You can see the burn marks around the individual LEDs on the side. Three of the five total groups of LEDs burned up. Not sure I trust these things at this point.

 

Sorry to see that, but you shouldn't have any problem getting a replacement from Amazon. Their customer service is excellent.

 

These type of bulbs are usually very good for short term illumination like reverse lights but are likely to overheat and quit working as DRL's. I've had a set in my truck for well over a year and they work great. Had the same bulb but with different base in my foglights (2011 Silverado) and one burnt out within 2 months. They are made for easy plug-n-play but don't dissipate heat well.

 

So I went ahead and got the Adjure housing and installed the 2057 80 Watt LEDs. Brighter than all heck in reverse but the problem is, I just noticed they are staying on in all forward gears and all headlight settings but very dim. You only really notice it at night, but naturally I'm concerned a out killing the life of these things. Has anyone else ran into this or have any ideas on solving this? I took everything apart thinking the bulbs were inserted wrong, but the 2057 base only goes in one way. Thanks

 

Sounds like you have a base electrical issue. Something is applying a small amount of current to the reverse circuit. The most likely culprit would be the transmission position switch on an automatic or reverse position switch on a manual.

You should put a volt meter between the two terminals where the bulbs connect and confirm if there is voltage present

 

I've been reading and see a few others that ran into the same issue but never posted the resolution. I'm hoping one of these guys reply to my PM. But if not I guess I'll have to start with the socket and work my way through it. I have the M6 but I don't think it's the reverse switch in the trans as I'm not getting any blown fuses. Weird. I already installed the harness with the halos, but I doubt that has any bearing. I also installed the leds in the front and rear side markers. But again those should all be separate circuits? I dunno.

 

With the exception of resistors or mounting hidden auxiliary lamps behind the bumper, has anyone figured out what the root cause is for the reverse LED's staying on dimly in all other gears?

Also, I understand there are two different circuits driving the Reverse Lamps. One from the the shifter position, and one for the FOB.

On a 2000 M6, can someone please confirm what fuses are involved with with each circuit so I can attempt to figure out which has the 'power leakage'. At this point, I don't think it's the trans mounted switch, but figuring out which circuit is causing the issue will at least help me to focus on one or the other.

I have also sent out a few PM's to others who have previously reported the issue, hoping they can share a solution, but so far I've only got the aforementioned bandaids: resistor/hidden lamp, or the most popular, simply removed the LED's and went back to stock. I just cannot image that nobody has been able to identify the root cause here?

 

I would think if you installed a simply relay, using the power to the reverse light as both 12v+ and trigger, you could shut off the circuit completely below a certain voltage. If the LEDs are only dim, there shouldn't be enough voltage to trigger the relay and the circuit would stay open/LEDs completely off.

 

Yes, that's another angle that would work. However, I'd really like to figure out what fuses control both circuits and and see if I can isolate and resolve the root cause of this leakage. If I get to a dead end, and find that it's coming through the BCM or something like that, then I guess the easiest way would to simply use resistors. Thank YOU for the suggestion!

 

Here is the wiring diagram. The system is laid out where the circuit from the backup lamp switch passes through the normally closed contacts of the perimeter lamp relay in the underhood fuse block. The circuit that turns them on with the key fob, is a ground signal provided by the BCM, which triggers the perimeter lamp relay to connect the normally open contacts and provides 12v from a completely different circuit (approach fuse 2) from the backup lamp switch on the transmission.

There are three possible scenarios for what is applying voltage to the backup lamps.

1. The circuit from the approach fuse is inducing a current into the backup lamp circuit.

This is not likely to be the case, because the approach circuit is hot at all times and if it was inducing a current, the lights would never turn off until the battery was drained.

2.There is a resistance fault in the circuit between the BTSI/BU Fuse and the backup lamps. This includes the back-up lamp switch and the perimeter lamp relay. (This is the condition I originally suggested checking for).

To check this condition, I would start by pulling the perimeter lamp relay, and check for voltage at the pin in the relay socket that corresponds to Pin F9 of Connector C3. This will be the pin that the input from the backup lamp switch is on. If you find voltage, then there is most likely a resistance fault in the backup lamp switch.

3. Some other circuit (unrelated to the backup lamp circuit) that is only hot in run is inducing a current into the backup lamp circuit.

(This isn't very likely, but still more likely than scenario 1)

 

Why do you think you would have blown fuses if it was the switch? The kind of fault within the backup lamp switch that would cause this kind of concern, would not be a short to ground, it would be a partial contact contact condition that induces some resistance and thus reduces power to the backup lamps. As long as there is a still a load (in this case the backup lamps) in the circuit, then you wouldn't have a short to ground under any circumstance.

 

Also, it should be noted that it is entirely possible that it is characteristic, of the back-up lamp switch, to have trace voltage present on the backup lamp circuit and you may not be able to do anything to make it go away without adding some additional resistance to the circuit.

 

Thanks alot Electron! I will check the perimeter lamp relay first and if I can isolate current between there and after the trans switch. Maybe it is the trans switch? I thought those were just 100% black and white, good or bad, so I appreciate your input there. I can see the switch threads have teflon tape on them, but I don't think that's an issue with the housing being case aluminum?

I guess the fuses aren't much help as both are hot all the time while in run. You've helped guide me as to where to start. If I can't sort this out, and it seems to be the nature of the beast, I guess I will have to go the resistor route, but what I've read there is all over the map. One guy said to use 1K ohm 1 watt resistors, and another said to use the big honking 50 watt deals. I really don't want to go down that path unless I have to.

Thanks!

 

I don't think it is normal a characteristic of the car. We've been using the same bulbs from the same supplier for years now and so far only two cars have had the problem with our bulbs.

My guess would be the relay is something to be checked. Also, if cars are equipped with an reverse-camera setup, that may also cause the tiny voltage needed to light an LED dimly.

 

That schematic was very helpful to visualize where to go next. I already pulled fuse #2 and there was still power to the bulbs, so it seems its coming through the switch circuit. When I get home tonight, I will be able to dig deeper and figure out if its the trans switch or the relay. My guess at this point is it's probably the switch.

Also for the record, no reverse camera or anything else. Completely stock.