IMPORTANT ELECTRICAL INFORMATION (Long!)
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Ok, I just lost the FOG lights on my '99. I've already verified that the ground to them is no longer connected. Power is being fed to them properly. My manuals are lost somewhere in my tiny garage or buried in there. I need to located which splice pack is their ground source and where that splice pact is located. I believe it is the one on the right top frame rail near the hood mounting but in a wiring CD that I have for the car, it says a splice pack somewhere hidden in the right wheel well and I know for a fact, the data on this CD is questionable as in not always right.
Both fogs get connected in SPLICE PACK SP-100. This one is in the front facia nad is taped to one of the wireing harnesses. From there that splice pack it grounds to the chassis at G-102 which is just behind the passengers headlight on top of the frame.
BC
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 10,962
Likes: 29
From: Van Buren Arkansas
Wounded Warrior Escort '11
Thanks again Bill. It was the splice pack located at the forward right frame rail on top. I had to extract and re-crimp each pin in the splice pack itself. If it ever gives me any other problems, it will be replaced with a terminal lug.
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Glad the info help you fix it. Yep, cut and solder seems to be the prevailing thing to do!
I have a couple of buddies here in CT that have gone that route. Guess what??? The C6's went that route! They have all the grounds in one area gathered up and soldered in one eyelet.
Bill
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
I use ACF 50 on my Cessna
Hi, I just used ACF 50 on a few of my connectors and grounds. It's around 100.00 per gallon, but goes a long way. Purchased it for my Cessna 172 but using it on everything.
Helo All,
We in the Aerospcae Industry use a product called ACF 50.
1/ All Metallic Aircraft Corrode.
It is the nature of refined metals to return to their most stable form that of a metallic oxide. the rate at which metals corrode depends upon the environment they receive. Metals exposed to marine atmospheres, moisture, and tropical temperatures have the highest rates of corrosion.
2/ ACF-50 Kills Corrosion On Contact.
ACF-50 is a state-of-the-art anti-corrosion/lubricating compound that has been specially designed for aviation and aerospace use. It is a clean, clear, non-toxic, ultra-then fluid compound which leaves a non-greasy atmospheric barrier to protect metal surfaces. With a dielectric rating of nearly 40KV, ACF-50 will kill corrosion cells on contact and completely remove the moisture from the metal surface. It actively penetrates into seams, lap joints and beneath rivet heads, expelling moisture and even saltwater. In addition, it can be used on all types of plastics, paints and seals without fear of damage.
3/ One Treatment Protects For 24 Months.
No matter how hot, cold, humid, or salt-laden your atmosphere is, ACF-50 will perform. It will remain effective for approximately two years. Exactly how long an ACF-50 treat will last depends upon how corrosive your aircraft’s environment is, how often you fly, and whether or not your aircraft is hangared.
4/ ACF-50 Meets the Navy’s Requirements for 81309E Type ll and Type lll.
What does this double rating mean? It means that ACF-50 is not restricted to airframe application. It is approved for use on airframes plus [B]electrical and avionics systems.
Here is a good link for review http://www.corrosion-control.com/acf50.html
Kevin
We in the Aerospcae Industry use a product called ACF 50.
1/ All Metallic Aircraft Corrode.
It is the nature of refined metals to return to their most stable form that of a metallic oxide. the rate at which metals corrode depends upon the environment they receive. Metals exposed to marine atmospheres, moisture, and tropical temperatures have the highest rates of corrosion.
2/ ACF-50 Kills Corrosion On Contact.
ACF-50 is a state-of-the-art anti-corrosion/lubricating compound that has been specially designed for aviation and aerospace use. It is a clean, clear, non-toxic, ultra-then fluid compound which leaves a non-greasy atmospheric barrier to protect metal surfaces. With a dielectric rating of nearly 40KV, ACF-50 will kill corrosion cells on contact and completely remove the moisture from the metal surface. It actively penetrates into seams, lap joints and beneath rivet heads, expelling moisture and even saltwater. In addition, it can be used on all types of plastics, paints and seals without fear of damage.
3/ One Treatment Protects For 24 Months.
No matter how hot, cold, humid, or salt-laden your atmosphere is, ACF-50 will perform. It will remain effective for approximately two years. Exactly how long an ACF-50 treat will last depends upon how corrosive your aircraft’s environment is, how often you fly, and whether or not your aircraft is hangared.
4/ ACF-50 Meets the Navy’s Requirements for 81309E Type ll and Type lll.
What does this double rating mean? It means that ACF-50 is not restricted to airframe application. It is approved for use on airframes plus [B]electrical and avionics systems.
Here is a good link for review http://www.corrosion-control.com/acf50.html
Kevin
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 10,962
Likes: 29
From: Van Buren Arkansas
Wounded Warrior Escort '11
Looks like I'll be replacing that same splice pack tomorrow rather than waiting. On the way to work today after working on the splice pack this morning, I'm rolling off the offramp here where I work, clutch in, about 40mph, the engine just shut off! While rolling, I try to restart and the starter wouldn't turn over, no indications on the cluster of anything wrong other than the tach was at zero. I got it pulled over, tried a couple of times to restart with the starter not doing a thing. Shut off the ignition, turned it back on and it fired right up. I checked for codes...only the usual "U" codes but they weren't there this morning. I don't know what all is controlled in that splice pack other than some of the lighting obviously, but its the only thing I touched this morning and this is the first time this has ever happened. Its going to hit 300K miles either Friday or Sunday so I can't complain, but trying to find an unknown is going to be less than fun.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,251
Likes: 16
From: Phoenix Arizona
1st Gear
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
C5 air intake temperature stuck at 69F
Speaking of electrical problems, and not intending to hijack this thread, does anyone know how to fix my C5 air intake temperature that is stuck at 69F? This is displayed on my climate control module.
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Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
BC
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
From: Austin Texas
New guy here... just picked up an '02 Z06 off this forum a couple weeks ago.
I was getting a 1214 code and the "service active handling / service traction system" messages on startup. Per this thread, I cleaned grounds G101, 102, 103, and 104, and the problem is now 100% fixed. I was almost sure I was going to have to send off my ECBM for repair, but I ran across this thread, and decided to give it a shot.
Bill, thanks for the great info!
I was getting a 1214 code and the "service active handling / service traction system" messages on startup. Per this thread, I cleaned grounds G101, 102, 103, and 104, and the problem is now 100% fixed. I was almost sure I was going to have to send off my ECBM for repair, but I ran across this thread, and decided to give it a shot.
Bill, thanks for the great info!
Racer
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 279
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio tx
C1217 code won’t go away
Hi bill I hope you can point me in the right direction, my tc and abs lights came on and remain on, so I took it to my mechanic, he thought that the ecbm need to be fix, so I sent it to abs fixer, but they said that they did not know if they could fix it. There success had been with 2001 and up mine is a 2000 couple AT , so off it went and came back, not sure if they had success or not, replace the unit and now getting code C1217 my mechanic check the fuses, but he is throw for loop, can u offer some guidance,
Thanks
Roger
Thanks
Roger
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Hi bill I hope you can point me in the right direction, my tc and abs lights came on and remain on, so I took it to my mechanic, he thought that the ecbm need to be fix, so I sent it to abs fixer, but they said that they did not know if they could fix it. There success had been with 2001 and up mine is a 2000 couple AT , so off it went and came back, not sure if they had success or not, replace the unit and now getting code C1217 my mechanic check the fuses, but he is throw for loop, can u offer some guidance,
Thanks
Roger
Thanks
Roger
C1217 is the "Pump Motor Relay Contact Circuit open. It usually indicates that theres an internal issue with the module or wiring to the motor. Seeing that you have already sent it off and they didn't fix it, this what I recommend.
Check the BPMV external ground and MAKE SURE that it is clean and tight on the MOTOR and on the frame ground point at G-101.
The motor ground looks something like (very similar to) the one on this 97-98 rear mounted unit motor (yours is front mounted but has a similar ground lug on the motor) :
1. Call ABS Fixer an see if he can do anything with the additional information (DTC 1217). If you can send it back and tell them what DTCs it throwing, maybe he can zero in on the issue.
OR
2. Work on the EBTCM yourself. Once you get the 2000 C5 EBTCM info sheet and schematic, we can dig deeper
I'm familiar with the rear mounted EBTCM on the 97 and early 98 C5 but have no contact with the Front mounted early C5 EBTCMs The 2000 model was the LAST of that style of module and the 2001+ modules were totally revamped:
So,,,,,,,,I would open up the module and examine the board, contacts inside the module
All I have is a 98 service manual and a 2002 service manual. I don't think either one will help us out with exact info on the innards of the 2000 EBTCM.
Maybe you could contact PATCHES or Bill Dearborne and see if they have access to the 2000 EBTCM schematic and information sheet and see if they will post it or send it to you. From there I can do my best to lead guide and direct you to a solution.
Let me know if you get the schematics.
BC
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Anyone who is having problems with intermittent wheel speed sensor issues and any electrical issue that comes and goes, needs to inspect all the electrical connectors in the circuit that have female pins. The female pins that GM uses in most of their connectors have bad habbit of relaxing and become unstable. The small spring tab inside that grips male pin bends and if you insert a male pin in the female pin, you will find out that it will literaly just fall out. If the female pin is good, you will have to extract it with some force.
I disassembled a bad emergency flasher a while back and kept the male pins for testing female pins. Here is a picture of the male pin:
Here is a very good example of what a good and bad female pin looks like The BAD connector is on the right:
A new connector is on the left!
BC
I disassembled a bad emergency flasher a while back and kept the male pins for testing female pins. Here is a picture of the male pin:
Here is a very good example of what a good and bad female pin looks like The BAD connector is on the right:
A new connector is on the left!
BC
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Check the electrical connectors inside the rubber accordion tubes on BOTH doors. The Class 2 serial data wires could be bare and be shorted. I don't believe the ground is your issue. NO COMMS could also mean the power to the door is not present, Check all the door fuses.
BC
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: League City TX
c1255 c code and grounding
I've been reading the thread with interest and now find myself with a 1255 C code. On occassion, over the last year, I'd roll over some warning strips or something rough and my abs and TC light would come on. After shutting off the car, it wouldn't reappear from quite some time, if at all. The other day, they came on and won't go off and I have the 1225 C code that stays with me. So, my approach is to first check all the grounds then the wiring, etc. Today, I took off the left front ground and couldn't get the module open as I've seen in the pics. After about 15 of tinkering, I gave up. Any advice on prying the part open so I can look at the connection for corrosion? I must admit to almost cutting them all off and reattaching onto one post!
Thanks!
Thanks!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,251
Likes: 16
From: Phoenix Arizona
I've been reading the thread with interest and now find myself with a 1255 C code. On occassion, over the last year, I'd roll over some warning strips or something rough and my abs and TC light would come on. After shutting off the car, it wouldn't reappear from quite some time, if at all. The other day, they came on and won't go off and I have the 1225 C code that stays with me. So, my approach is to first check all the grounds then the wiring, etc. Today, I took off the left front ground and couldn't get the module open as I've seen in the pics. After about 15 of tinkering, I gave up. Any advice on prying the part open so I can look at the connection for corrosion? I must admit to almost cutting them all off and reattaching onto one post!
Thanks!
Thanks!
cut, silver solder and attach
damn grounds! 