Need some expert advice from Corvette owners. I was looking at a 2000 coupe this weekend at a local dealership. It has 24,650 miles on it and they are asking approx. 24,850 for it. I didn't see any major problems so I put a $500 deposit on it because the dealer told me that another person was in and put a deposit but called him on Saturday and wasn't so sure she did the right thing. He gave her to Monday to decide and wrote on my paperwork "second deposit." Was this a bad year for the Vette? I've read about the steering column lock up problem but that's all I could find. Is this a fair price for the car or should I ask for the deposit back? Any help is great!

 

You should post under C5 General. I would try for less $$, but 2000 is not a bad year in my opinon if the car is as it appears.

 

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Maybe you could contact PATCHES or Bill Dearborne and see if they have access to the 2000 EBTCM schematic and information sheet and see if they will post it or send it to you. From there I can do my best to lead guide and direct you to a solution.

Bill, sorry it took me so long to reply, but Bill Dearborne did sent me the schematic i think for ebtcm. would you like me to e-mail it to you.
also can you explain to me why, after i reset the code for the c1243 it always come back with an H after it and not a C for current.
thanks
roger

 

"FOR THE FLICKER ISSUE"

Had the same flicker problem, even shut the engine off while driving and came back on my 98 coup. It was a loose connection on my battery that I just replaced, bad crimp. Rule of thump with flikering problems, all power connects to the battery start there for loose/corroded connections, then issolate grounding points. Once I fixed the crimp, I cleared out the codes that popped when I had the flicker issue.

Only 2 codes popped on the HVAC, from what I read in past post I will disconnect the battery for 1 hour to reset the actuator and go from there. Hope this helps.

Gunner

 

PM sent on Problem HELP!!!!!

 

PM sent HELP!!!!!

 

What is that? My FRC is doing the same thing everytime I reconnect the battery

 

The headlight doors do NOT have any position switches. The motors STOP when the headlight control moduls senses a specific amount of stop current draw (ie, the motor stops cause the door is fully shut or fully open)

If the drive gear is stripped or the door stop tab is broken the motor will either continue to run or stop in the wrong place.

BC

 

sounds like a relay...any relays over there?

 

What is the fix if the door stop is broken?

I read on this thread about the drive gear replacement....

The headlights currently work just fine...

 

After reading through most of this thread, please let me apologize for a possibly redundant question. If I am reading some of the posts properly, the simultaneous appearance of the "Service Active Handling", "Service ABS" and "Service Traction Control" messages as I pulled into my driveway tonight (after using our 99 Coupe with 36K miles all day without a hitch), may be related to bad grounds, correct?

If so, I should locate the grounds as per the included schematics and then try to pry them apart to remove any corrosion that may have gotten in there, right? Just how hard is it to pry open the little suckers, and how easy is it to break one of them (yes, I AM related to Murphy )

Man, I hope that's what it is, because it would sure be a lot cheaper than doing some ex$pen$ive electrical work.

Thank you, thank you, thank you for this invaluable thread, and for your answers in advance.

 

Fuel level sensor problems can be caused by bad gas - too much sulfur content. I recommend using Chevron with Techron. Fixed my problem!

 

First things first,,,to really know what is wrong and how to tell you to proceed I need to know what DTCs your displaying via the DIC. Read and post your codes.

Thanks

Bill

 

Thanks a lot for the information. I have replaced all my spark plugs and wires and I still have the problem with a miss and odd things happening through out the car. At least I have nice MSD wires and NGK Iridium plugs out of it so far. I am now looking forward to taking your advice and fix the apparent ground problem! Thanks much..Doug

 

First of all, thanks for offering to help. Second, sorry it took a couple of days, but that darn thing called work kept me away from the car! Here are the codes, as I just wrote them down.

28 TCS - C1226H
58 SDM - B1001H, U1064H
AO-LDCM - B2282H, B2284H, U1064H
AI -RDCM - B2283H, B2285H, U1064H
BO-RFA - U1255H, U1096H, U1064H, U1016H

A couple notes - both the battery and the RF wheel sensor were replaced last year, not sure if the tech cleared codes then, and the car has been driven quite a few times since either/both were replaced. Not sure if that was important, but mentioned it just in case.

As you can imagine, even looking at what the codes mean from the document available on this site, I'm not sure what its telling me. Anything you can do to shed light on it would be greatly appreciated.

Personally, I think the car knows it's about to be paid off, and it's trying to find different ways of taking my money!

Thanks!

 

where does the ground connector under the battery get its ground from? the main distribution wire isnt grounding out. does anybody have a schematic of it? the wire im talking about is the top one in the connector in this pic. my connector is completely clean btw lol, nothing like the one in the pic.

 

I hit a puddle on the right front side on my way to work. Nothing special, just one of those puddles that pulls the steering wheel a tiny bit and makes a lot of noise and startles you.

I noticed something on the DIC and assumed it was ABS activating the way it does sometimes on puddles or railroad tracks or bumpy roads.

It kept making a racket and I looked down and saw it said

SERVICE ABS
SERVICE AH
SERVICE TC

or whatever the three errors are to that effect.

I've had that error before, and usually it goes away with the next start. It also usually is more likely to happen in cold weather.

So I gave it a couple of days of sunny, warm (60-70 degree) days and no luck.

Next, I came here and found this thread.

I pulled my codes and the only current code I had was the dreaded C1214 code.

I had some door codes in history, which doesn't surprise me because my locks have been flaky as heck lately. But nothing that would pertain to this problem.

Next I went through my grounds with a fine tooth comb. They all looked good, except for some black paint on the studs, which I scraped off real good. Whoever decided to use TALL studs on those grounds in the engine compartment should be strung up. You can't easily get a wrench on them, and unless you have a SMALL SIZED (3/8 or 10mm) deep well socket kit (I don't) they are a bear.

I also got my Voltmeter out and checked my connections and fuses as well as I could and I am pulling a solid 14 volts to all the grounds I could get to.

I then loosened the connector to the EBCM and retightened it a couple of times with that big gray lever bar thing. I restarted the car and got the three error messages.

Oh well, it's time to pull the EBCM off and send it to the magic ABSFIXER guy.

That turned out to be interesting.

I have a Z06. I think that means I have a power steering cooler that the standard C5 doesn't have. RIGHT WHERE your arm needs to be most of the time while working on the EBCM.

My right arm is shredded. Looking back, I'd recommend long sleeve shirts for this removal.

I got the 6 torx screws off, with some contortions and running the car up on ramps. I am still wondering what it is going to be like to get them back ON...

Also I would note that the ABSFIXER site says to gently remove the module. They don't mention that some sort of LOCKTITE is used on the EBCM face. I ended up using an old wood chisel to get between the two surfaces and twist. The whole time I kept wondering if I was about to ruin my entire ABS. But it eventually popped off.

Getting it out of there was a challenge too. I went through the top. I bet the bottom would have been easier.

So... that leaves me with the EBCM ready to go to ABSFIXER for the $150 special. If that works, I will be a happy camper.

One other side note, once you pull the EBCM, you get a lot fewer error codes. I just get a "SERVICE VEHICLE SOON" code now instead of three codes when I start up... so that is nice.

I'll post back and let you know if the ABSFIXER works. If it does I'll be

 

Tom

Nice post!
Yep, the module is sealed very well
. When you reinstall it, make sure the rubber O ring on the connectors are clean and you lubricate just the O rings with silicone dielectric grease. I put black silicone RTV on the sealing surface of the EBTCM just to make sure it sealed good.

BC

 

Same problem here including the door locks. The next step for me will be to pull the codes.

 

i am currently having problems with my 01 vette. about a month ago it started raining and that night i went to move my car and i received a l "LOW VOLTAGE, REDUCED ENGINE POWER" with the check engine light on and it seemed sluggish, like i would be pressing the gas but the car wasn't reacting to it at all. the following morning i started the car and there was no problems. about a week later the problem came back, so i had the dealership take a look at it, they said i had a bad alternator, so i had that replaced. a few days later same problem. replaced battery since i still had the original one. worked fine for a few more days. went to start it up same problem. when i have the key in and i attempt to sarrt the car none of my gages move except for the battery one and it tries to move but only gets to like 6 volts and comes back down and will continue to do it, it also makes a buzzing noise. but if i leave it alone for a little bit it starts right back up. this problem is intermitent, and my friend and i are going to locate the grounds tomorrow and clean them out. also i am having problems with my signals they will be working just fine then all of a sudden stop, and stop working for a while then start.