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I'm in Florida right now, and work wants me here for the next 3 months.
No no no no no no no no.
Now moving to your island, maybe. That sounds like a better idea. You just have to give me enough business to support my 3 dogs.
Bring it on. Wait, three dogs?!
Sounds like my household: we have 4 cats in our flat, and my older step daughter lives right below us with two chocolate labs, three cats and two young boys. Yep, I live in a frickin zoo...
Okay.
Idk about the IAT curve. I wouldn't know which one is off, to be honest, because I rely on the A/C display for outside temps, and that seems to be off sometimes. I've noticed that the IAT will drop down to around ambient air temps and at one point the other day when I looked at it, cruising at about 55, it showed that the IAT was one degree less than what was displayed on the A/C control as being outside air temp (84* vs. 85*). Ever since I installed the HX expansion tank and reconfigured the HX hose routing, the IATs run at about or just above ambient whilst cruising and will creep up to around 5-8 degrees above ambient if I stop in traffic and drop right back down again once I get up past 25mph or so.
Honestly I wouldn't worry about it.. sounds like it's close and that the cooling mods you've done have helped quite a bit in keeping temps down on that "heat pump" of yours
The outside air temp sensor is mounted up by the front of the car. I've found with a lot of supercharger/modded cars, it can read higher than actual as the added heat exchangers/etc radiate enough to effect its readings. On the centri kits, the BOV venting in the front there can cause high readings on that sensor too.
And is that the one that is very S L O W to update? Possibly an average or something weird? I've read you can force an updated reading by holding certain buttons down...?
Originally Posted by Unreal
The outside air temp sensor is mounted up by the front of the car. I've found with a lot of supercharger/modded cars, it can read higher than actual as the added heat exchangers/etc radiate enough to effect its readings. On the centri kits, the BOV venting in the front there can cause high readings on that sensor too.
Honestly I wouldn't worry about it.. sounds like it's close and that the cooling mods you've done have helped quite a bit in keeping temps down on that "heat pump" of yours
Yep, that looks like it.
True thing that. Whatever it is, it is. I'm fine with my old heat pump. As long as it doesn't knock (you've seen the logs), I'm happy. I've done my fair share of "verifying" temps with my infrared temp tester too, lol.
The outside air temp sensor is mounted up by the front of the car. I've found with a lot of supercharger/modded cars, it can read higher than actual as the added heat exchangers/etc radiate enough to effect its readings. On the centri kits, the BOV venting in the front there can cause high readings on that sensor too.
That makes sense. I've noticed that my outside temp sensor takes a looong time to update as well, even though I have mine far away from anything that could influence it. For example, when I drive out of my garage, it shows ~77*, and even when outside air temps are in the 90s, it takes a good 10-15 minutes before I see something resembling actual outside air temp. So, I think my IAT is more accurate than that, because that moves around fairly quickly when I get on the go pedal and responds to vehicle speed, etc. Like whenever I blast the car WOT, it climbs fairly smoothly and the second I ease off the throttle, the IATs will drop very quickly and recover to just about where it was at the start of the blast by the time the car coasts back down to cruising speed. I've seen this on both HPT datalogs and on the Dashlogic.
My outside temp one use to show 130-140F just because the BOV pre intercooler blew on it all the time. Freaked people out seeing outside temp that high. Finally moved it up and out of the way, but still reads high compared to actual just because it is basically in the hot engine bay now.
I figured that message would come through.. if it doesn't, email them and see if they can fix it so that message shows up.
Messages for things like traction control, etc. show up even with dash logic on so there's no reason it can't work for low fuel
There may be a PID for miles remaining or something like that that you could set an alert for also. I haven't ever looked for it so I'm not sure if there is or not.
It can read fuel level, so like sch said, worst case program your own warning for when fuel level < whatever percent you want. 10%/20%, etc. Hell setup 20 warnings so you can have one at 20%, 15%, 10%, etc.
Been covered time and time again. OBD2 reading is a estimate. Dash is actual from sensor.
Hi, I'm a bit new here.
So is this the only reading on the Dashlogic that is "estimated"?
My Dashlogic reads anywhere from 15-20 degrees cooler than the regular DIC reading.
The Dashogic coolant temps on the other hand are spot on with the gauge.
Hi, I'm a bit new here.
So is this the only reading on the Dashlogic that is "estimated"?
My Dashlogic reads anywhere from 15-20 degrees cooler than the regular DIC reading.
The Dashogic coolant temps on the other hand are spot on with the gauge.
Dash logic reads from the ecu. The dash logic isn't estimating anything, the car is. So yes, this the only reading that the car estimates.
SO what do you get if you plug in a Dashlogic and have not ever calibrated it? Just picked one up, and have not set it up. just curious if anything cool for the ride home.
also. 2007 Z06 the stock map is not 2 bar, got it, will swap when I adjust tune in a few weeks. BUT until then it should at least read boost to 2 Psi correct?
04-11-2017, 06:14 PM
cats in our flat, and my older step daughter lives right below us with two chocolate labs, three cats and two young boys. Yep, I live in a frickin zoo...
