Well the little car with skidmarks is more than likely associated with your " Service Active Handling"

"Service Vehicle Soon" might mean you need to change the oil and reset the percentage? Have you dont this yet? If so, whats the percentage on?

G/L with the other electrical problems!

 

No, the oil is good according to the DIC. It says 71%.

 

I have this 'service active handling' message pop up randomly upon start ups. Then it goes away.... It's never come up whilst driving. Do I have an issue I need to address here? Like I said it only happens on random start ups and then disapears...

 

So... here's my situation.

got these three messages in my DIC

Service active handling
Service ABS
service Traction system

Car doesn't pull either direction but I did notice that before any of the lights come on the ABS will engage when braking for no reason. Any one experience the issue with the brakes.

 

i have the same exact same prob. i brought it to the dealership and they say its the abs module (ecm) up front, dropping it off next week so i'll keep my fingers crossed

 

Please PM me and let me know how it works out for you. Hope for the best lol.

-Nate

 

Where are the early C-5 owners? We have a 1999 coupe with memory package (AAB), Active Handling (JL4) and Power Telescopic Steering (N37) - the memory seat activates the telescopic steering setting each time I enter the car and start.
I have had more than three AH problems each of the past three years. Especially when turning corners, on gravel or grass. Brakes grab then release and the display says "Service Active Handling" and the dash warning symbol comes on. To reset the system, I must turn the car off.
Dealer has worked on it three times, charged each time, no positive results and now they say they have no idea what to do next. Now the 1999 is no longer supported by GM Tech which means the dealer GM Goodwrench guy has not factory support of any kind. Where do I go next and how will I ever resell to buy a new Vette.

 

The next time you system has a brain fart,,,,,,before you shut it down, pull up the DTCs and report whats there! If your not using the built in diagnostics routene, here is a write up on how to use it:

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!




Post the DTS and I will see if I can do better than the STEALERSHIPS!

BC

 

NO MORE LIGHTS FOR ME(ABS, BRAKE, T/C, AND SERVICE VECHILE SOON) !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

dealership replaced the abs module and it stopped all of my lights from coming on!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Got mine back today, all codes gone and all other electric BS gone. Finally things are looking up!

 

My "Service Active Handling System" message comes on frequently and I have been ignoring it. (I'm a woman and mechanics don't take me seriously enough.) Recently, the traction control system has been engaging during minimal braking and kind of throwing the car. Since it's in the shop now for dying while moving, or no start at all (which the dealership hasn't been able to diagnose) I will report this problem. I also filled out all the various forms and wrote the individuals that you listed on your post.
Just an FYI, while replacing my gasoline sensor today, the dealership found a crack in my rear axle and they are going to replace that. They told me that it is a factory defect. I didn't find any tech bulletins on this.

Thank you for encouraging me to take action on this issue. I hope we get some positive results.

 

19,000 miles, telescoping wheel all the way out. Going up a hill at about 35 mph, decide to floor it, car takes off for a sec and than cuts off, looses power for a few seconds, lots of popping from exhaust and service traction control light comes on. It all goes away when I shut the car down but I can recreate it under same conditions. At no time does the car get sideways nor do the breaks engage. Just seem to go into limp mode for a few secs. I'm on extended so I'll bring her in. Mention the TSBs and these posts and go from there.

 

The other day I noticed that I had a 'SERVICE ACTIVE HANDLING' message. I was more concerned, however, with the fact that my interior lights wouldn't shut off no matter what I did, so I ended up shutting the car off and then turning it back on again a number of times in order to confront the interior light issue.

Eventually I discovered that if you push the dimmer switch in it shuts off the interior lights. I felt like an idiot but I had never turned them on before and the buttons on the mirror weren't doing anything so I found it strange.

Anyways, ever since then, it seems, I can't get the car to go into competitive driving mode. I used to be able to turn it on by hitting the traction control switch twice, but now it's either traction control on or off - no competitive whatsoever.

Could this issue pertain to me?

 

I'm starting to get really worried here...

Being located in Belgium, things aren't really easy having these problems!

I had the Active Handling issue for a long time, the dealerships haven't heard from these problems nor from a service bulletin about the clip.

They replaced the whole module making me drive without any issue for about a year now, I was glad this issue seemed to be solved.

Today, the Service Active Handling System-warning showed up again! Dealerships won't be able to help, what should I do?

 

You are right about the grease. It is non conductive. I have used it for years working on my Jeep's electronics and have never had an issue. It actually helped because of fretting and that is why I used it in the pics and on my Z06. Fretting is believe to be one of the causes for the pins to be losing contact as they are wearing out. I have had no problems with my vette and run the **** out of the steering column (all the way out) every time I get in and out of the car. If the outside of the connector stays dry, then it shouldn't slip with the comb fix and most importantly removing tension from the wiring bundle to add SLACK.

I changed my comments on my photobucket site as per you pointing that out (thanks!) One can also use CRC 2-26 electrical grade spray to clean the connector is they added the dielectric grease and want to remove it.


Tony

 

Go here to do the fix yourself. Most people are having problems with the SWPS having an open circuit. You should be able to order the part. I posted a picture of the fix with the part number as well. Good luck. If this does not fix it, it might be something else. Suggest you read through the entire post to see other people comments as some other components have failed (yaw sensors, etc) which apparently bring up the SAH message.

Good luck

Tony
http://s680.photobucket.com/albums/v..._AV8R/?start=0

 

this thread needs all the play it can get...

 

Just purchased a stunning Atomic Orange 07 coupe three days ago with 11.200 miles on it and read this entire thread this evening and it scares the hell out of me.
My wife claims the car is hers so since she will be driving it the most that adds to the feeling.
Driven it about 300 miles so far and no problems so far but the first time I get qa chance I am going to take a look at the harness and see how tight it is.
NVL AV8R what a great write up about the problem, can't believe if that is causing all the problems that GM hasn't stepped up with a simple recall.
Seems like a very inexpensive fix for such a dangerous safety issus.
Now I just need to look back through 15 pages of post to find the part number for the red comb.
Might email Stephen McHenry and see if he has anything to add to the problem now that it has been ongoing for so long.
The car is unbelievable, and I hate to hear it is having these kind of problems

 

All you really need is the TSB number and take that to a dealer. They can order the part from that and install it. That is what I did, even though I have had no problems with my '05............but then I do not use the telescopic feature much for that very reason.

 

There a 2 TSB's out there. The second one is TSB-06-02-35-002B (is the one you want) and this is the comb fix. The 1st one was GM just putting a little zip tie on the wiring bundle, which did nothing (in my opinion but made it worse). The comb part number for the TSB is P/N 19179794 and it cost me $11.85 with tax.

Last time I checked, if you ARE NOT showing a SERVICE ACTIVE HANDLING message, GM will NOT do the TSB unless you pay. That might have changed since I checked (someone please correct me if that has changed). That is why I did it myself...that and I trust my own knowledge of electronics more than I do a mechanics (I was a Navy Advanced Avionics Technician before I became a Navy pilot.)

Also, the are other issues with the SAH other than the Steering Wheel Position Sensor (SWPS) that could be the problem. Bill Curlee (Bravo Zulu to you Bill!) has done a LION's share of trouble shooting these issues and is the man to contact if this fix does not work for you...there seems to be issues with the yaw sensors and bad connectors on some vettes that he has discovered could be the problem.

If you do this fix yourself of have GM do it, MAKE SURE THE WIRING BUNDLE HAS PLENTY OF SLACK. Putting in the comb is not going to help if every time you run the steering wheel in and out, the wiring bundle to the SWPS is too tight and pulling on the connector. It is as simple a fix as removing some of the electrical tape around with wiring bundle to create more slack to the SWPS.

Good luck

Tony