I had this happen to me last October and thought it was something else. Now that I've seen this thread, I've tried to contact GM to have the issue fixed, however, they told me my car was not affected by the recall and I would have to pay out of the pocket to have it fixed.

Lets see, this is how I know I should have the recall preformed for free.

1. I have a 2006 (made in Jan 2006) Corvette
2. It has the telescope and tilt option
3. I had one of my back breaks lock up causing the car the jolt towards a bridge wall and ditch twice while going "highway" speeds.


SO how is it that my car was not included in this recall?

 

My fiances 06 did this about 8 months ago. She just turned right to the service road about to get onto the highway and the driver front tire started locking up on her. She pulled over, called me,and I told her to turn the traction control off. That stopped it. The thing that pissed me off is just 2 weeks before this happened we took it in due to the stability warning we kept getting. Service advisor didn't even send it back. He sat in it and said there car has a clean bill of health and theres nothing wrong with it. I took it there this time and asked for the service manager. They installed the clip and charged me around $200.havent had a problem since but I wish I would have known about this sooner.

 

The clip was 200 for the install? That's nuts... takes minutes and the part is only a few bucks...

 

I haven't had the 3rd thing happen, but I posted a similar story to yours just today...

 

Man that sucks. As mentioned, the clip is about $8 and should only take about no more than 15mins to install. I would write GM a letter and see if they would reimburse you in good faith.

 

I think that included a transmission flush and oil change. I have the world's worst memory. Either way its fixed.

 

so is the clip the fix for this issue with the traction control? mine is doing it as we speak, affects my starting of the car, my brake lights are activated and then when i go to stop the car they go off, corvette's of houston spent a day checking out my car and didn't know how to fix it????

 

The RED clip (comb) is inserted into the rear of the connector. It helps the connector female pins make positive contact with the MALE pins in the sensor housing where the connector plugs into.

The red comb looks like this:



When the SWPS has a poor connection, it causes EBTCM issues. I don't see how it can cause BRAKE LIGHT issues or STARTING issues. For sure NOT a starting issue...

Check the Brake Peddle Switch and make sure that it adjusted properly and its working correctly. Press the brake and when the arm moves away from the switch, manually move it with your finger and see if the switch plunger operates freely, smoothly and the brake light operate properly when the plunger is pressed and released.

When the car will not start,, what are the symptoms and are there any codes?

Bill

 

I actually still have this issue AFTER the recall... traction control has never kicked in unexpectedly, but I still get the "service active handling" dash message occasionally. I gave up... I'm out of warranty and don't care to pay to continue to diagnose it since I'll be trading for a C7 anyway.

 

what happens to my car when it's acting up is, when you get in to start it, the brake pedal feels as if it already has built up pressure on it, so something is thinking I'm pressing the brake pedal, so i can start my car with out pressing the brake pedal, when the car starts the brake lights are activated, the when I stop they go off, if im traveling at normal speed an have to brake the service active handling system reads out on dash? I did change the brake pedal switch but made no adjustments, did nothing for the problem. this is a scary issue because i have to use my hazards as brake lights, can't tell you how many times I've almost had people run into the back of me do to faulty brake lights. Is this clip something you can buy at a dealer? and how easily can it be to install?

 

When was there a recall, and is it to late for me to get my car checked?

 

Ronny

Your brake LIGHT issue could very well be caused by an improperly adjusted brake light switch, Make sure that the plunger of the switch is fully depressed when the brake peddle is at rest. With the plunger properly depressed, the brake lights should not be ON and you should be able to set your cruise control.

The connection on the SWPS could be bad causing erroneous signals to the EBTCM. If the EBCM thinks the driver is inputing steering input LEFT OR RIGHT (because of the false input from the SWPS),, the EBCM will apply brakes to the wheels necessary to correct to error.

I don't know how its doing it setting still when you first get in but, I guess anythings possible.

When mine was acting up, I disconnected the connector to the SWPS and used a wooden tongue depressor to "slightly" bend the pins rearward to make a better connection inside the connector and it worked.

Call Gene Culley at GM Parts House.. His contact info is at www.gmpartshouse.com He will be able to tell you if your car is or should be recalled and if the kit is available.

Bill

 

Maybe it was a TSB and not a recall, but I remember going to the dealer and they fixed it. It was about a year ago, I was already out of warranty. But when the light kept coming on later I gave up. It's worth calling your dealer and asking if they'll cover it.

 

When I get the chance I am going to buy a terminal release tool from Weatherpack, Snap on, or OTC. One that is specific to that style connector. I think there is 4 wires Mark them as to there location and release all four from the plastic housing. Then take each wire and see how snug it fits on the spade side on the sensor. We all know waht it should feel like. If any of them seem loose They can be GENTLY squeezed a little tighter ( after pulling them of the spade) Gently is an understatement. If your not extra careful the can of worms you will open up, will be the size of a 55 gallon drum. Once they all are tight drive it for a couple weeks. They won't fall out and if this fixes the problem great. TYhe you will need to put the wires back in the housing but before you do, gently pull the locking tab on the terminal out a tiny bit so when you reinsert it back into the plastic housing you can feel it snap in place. I would also put the comb in for added security so that they will not be pushed out of the back of the housing when you plug it in. The problem may not be that they are being pushed back. The comb will only help if that is the case. If its because the female portion is not tight on the spade in the sensor you will need to cure that or your wasting your time. I think that this will be the only way to find out once and for all if this connection is the real problem. I believe that it is the cause and sometimes the comb fixes it and sometimes it doesn't. The frequency of my service active handling message appearing greatly increased immediately after letting my girfriend program a profile for the seats, steering wheel and mirrors. She is short and I am tall so the steering wheel position makes a drastic change. Thats when my issue increased dramatically. So I think we are on the right track.

 

Before you get too involved with the female connector, see if NAPA has a MALE pin the same size as the male pins inside the SWPS. That way you can test the female pins in the female connector without having to disassemble the connector if you don't have to.

I have spare pins for most of the connectors:



Bill

 

Stay away from Corvettes of Houston. They put cams in some peoples vettes and said they used dual springs and did not. The shop I use has had a few with blown engines because of the springs breaking from the people who used CoH for there cam installs.

Back to the subject: 2006 Z51

About six months ago I was pulling into Sonic for a burger while making a slow left turn. Once I was in the parking lot my front break locked up and made a weird noise and the service active handling light came on. This happened again to me yesterday. My battery suddenly died at the car wash twice. After I got a push start and popped my clutch to get my car started I notice the service active handling light came on. I let my car run a bit and turned off the engine to clear the warning. As I was leaving the car wash and about to get onto the highway the breaks locked up again.

 

Not saying you don't have a EBTCM or a SWPS issue BUT,,,,,,,,,,, If you lost battery power you M U S T fix that before you trouble shoot ANYTHING ELSE!

Check the battery terminals for proper TORQUE and make sure that the battery terminals and post are clean and in good shape.

Check the terminal connections on the STARTER SOLENOID. The Generator charges the battery THRU the terminal on the starter. If the starter terminals are Dirty/Corroded or LOOSE,,,,, you can and will have charging issues.

To figure out if you are properly charging the battery, you need to use a DC Volt Meter to read the voltage directly on the battery terminals.

The analogue and digital meters in the DIC and IPC "DO NOT" indicate true battery voltage. It shows voltage after the relay that gets energized when you turn on the IGNITION SWITCH.

 

In the schematic shown above,, you can see that the analog meter is NOT connected directly to any battery circuits but thru other systems.

BC

 

Here is the link to file a Vehicle Safety Complaint.

https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/Vehicl...nt/index.xhtml

 

Had the Service Active Handling System light come on this weekend while driving my car. Was going in a straight line down I-59 and it flashed on.

Looks like I will try purchasing the comb and installing it this weekend.

Thanks for the thread guys!