View Poll Results: Did you take action?
Yes, I think its the right thing to do!
328
68.62%
No, I haven't the time for this.
150
31.38%
Voters: 478. You may not vote on this poll
Service Active Handling - Consumer Action
Racer
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 373
Likes: 99
From: Mid-Missouri
Wow!
This actually caused me a serious accident went sideways for no reason at all, 5 degree day 3am on interstate. I hit a poor guy in an F250 3 times till I gave him a pits maneuver sent him across 3 lanes of light traffic at about 60 mph. He wasn't hurt but...
Being sued for millions and the lawyer says I cant even tell the truth. I have little confidence in this car that it could happen again. The steering wheel position sensor was changed and the service active handling warning hasn't come back. This is the craziest thing and I really dont think this system has saved anyone any accidents but certainly caused them.
I can never relax in this car, my 2006 Z.
A few times it just applied the brakes while turning left in front of oncoming traffic too.
Being sued for millions and the lawyer says I cant even tell the truth. I have little confidence in this car that it could happen again. The steering wheel position sensor was changed and the service active handling warning hasn't come back. This is the craziest thing and I really dont think this system has saved anyone any accidents but certainly caused them.
I can never relax in this car, my 2006 Z.
A few times it just applied the brakes while turning left in front of oncoming traffic too.
I have an '08Z (recently purchased) and that warning just popped up for the first time a few days ago. Having some fun, made the *** wiggle, and BING, there it is. Shut it off, restart, warning is gone. But when you try to play, it comes RIGHT back.
Not a good feeling to be unsure about a Z06 stability on the road. I have noticed that if I use the button in the console and just turn OFF the AHS, I obviously will not get the warning. But the question that remains is that is everything working as it should, less the AHS being turned off??
Thoughts?
Thanks.
Merry Christmas 🎄🎁
2nd Gear
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Hello Kelly J. I have just purchased a 2012 LS1 with 8300 miles and all of the dreaded "Service ABS, Veh Handling, Trac Control lights come on as soon as I start the engine. So this problem still exists. Must I pay all the costs for getting it fixed ?
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 106
Likes: 6
From: Cle Elum, WA
I filed a complaint for my 2005. Seems to hit when I'm at low speed around 25 MPH and changing lanes. Locks up the front brakes, lights etc. I've had the recall done previously and it still continues.
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 214
Likes: 92
From: Upnorth Michigan
Personally I think its a pretty easy decision to permanently disable the active handling. Just ask yourself, "Would I drive a 400hp big block classic car?". If the answer is yes, then you're going to be fine with AH disabled as even without it the C6 is a MUCH MUCH safer vehicle than any classic.
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 53
Likes: 16
From: Great Falls, MT
2012 GS 3LT 44K miles.
I have an active Service Active Handling System message. I am the second owner of this 2012, having purchased it just a couple of weeks ago. I really like the style and performance. I think the telescoping steering wheel may not have been used for years, as I found a blown fuse for the drivers powered set and telescoping steering wheel. After I started using the telescoping wheel I got the message. No faults show with the OBDII. There are many other posts on this message, and I just noticed the sticky on it started in 2009. Before the message came up I noticed a quick swerve top the left while driving a mountain road at about 65mph. It only happened once, and I figured a pavement issue. Next day the message came up. From another thread on Service Active Handling System, I saw an issue with the steering wheel sensor. I pulled the plastic cover under the dash, and found my steering wheel sensor dangling from the steering column. Using the telescoping feature caused a bound bearing to push the sensor out of it’s housing. I disconnected the sensor, as the message resets with every start, and I worry that before it disables the AH again, it could cause a control problem. I have made a complaint to the NHTSA. There are other complaints there, but not as many as I’ve seen on this forum. When I get it repaired, I think I will keep the sensor disconnected and live with the fault light. I understand that all the other functions like ABS will still work.
I have an active Service Active Handling System message. I am the second owner of this 2012, having purchased it just a couple of weeks ago. I really like the style and performance. I think the telescoping steering wheel may not have been used for years, as I found a blown fuse for the drivers powered set and telescoping steering wheel. After I started using the telescoping wheel I got the message. No faults show with the OBDII. There are many other posts on this message, and I just noticed the sticky on it started in 2009. Before the message came up I noticed a quick swerve top the left while driving a mountain road at about 65mph. It only happened once, and I figured a pavement issue. Next day the message came up. From another thread on Service Active Handling System, I saw an issue with the steering wheel sensor. I pulled the plastic cover under the dash, and found my steering wheel sensor dangling from the steering column. Using the telescoping feature caused a bound bearing to push the sensor out of it’s housing. I disconnected the sensor, as the message resets with every start, and I worry that before it disables the AH again, it could cause a control problem. I have made a complaint to the NHTSA. There are other complaints there, but not as many as I’ve seen on this forum. When I get it repaired, I think I will keep the sensor disconnected and live with the fault light. I understand that all the other functions like ABS will still work.
Last edited by Wayne Blaine; Sep 7, 2020 at 04:47 PM.
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 64
Likes: 10
From: Milton WA
Wayne, did you look for the comb in the connector? After 46 pages I cant remember if this thread discusses it or on which page, but if you search Service Active Handling System comb on google, it's the first "image" to come up when I search it. The previous owner didn't mention anything to me about it, but when I checked mine out, the connector had a ziptie on it, so I knew that it had previously been an issue. The comb cost me under $7 and haven't had the issue come back since I put the comb in, 2-3 years ago.
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Advanced
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 53
Likes: 16
From: Great Falls, MT
Wayne, did you look for the comb in the connector? After 46 pages I cant remember if this thread discusses it or on which page, but if you search Service Active Handling System comb on google, it's the first "image" to come up when I search it. The previous owner didn't mention anything to me about it, but when I checked mine out, the connector had a ziptie on it, so I knew that it had previously been an issue. The comb cost me under $7 and haven't had the issue come back since I put the comb in, 2-3 years ago.
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 53
Likes: 16
From: Great Falls, MT
Now, two weeks after my first post, I have had my 2012 to the dealer twice. Once to see the problem, order a sensor, and just yesterday to replace the sensor. Replacing the sensor would take an hour, but getting the support bearing back into place, to be able to replace the sensor in it’s housing requires removing the steering column. I knew that, but was hoping the dealership would have some secret method of fixing this. Now, I have an estimate for 6 hours time, so more like an $800 repair. I’m thinking about doing it myself, but I’ll need to have a Tech II to calibrate the sensor position. When I get this fixed, I doubt I will ever use the telescoping wheel again.
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 77
Likes: 30
From: Meridian Idaho
Into the wall at 118 mph. Active handling?
Sorry, I haven't gotten through the 46 pages on this, but wanted to relay my experience at the track 8 days ago. I was drag racing my 08 C6 at the local track as I have been all this season (yes, we had one!) and part of last year's too after acquiring the car mid 2019. I have been drag racing for the better part of 40 years. I am saying this to alleviate any possible thoughts of rookie moves on my part on the track, etc. The local track is an NHRA sanctioned track that takes safety very seriously and their track prep is second to none, especially at this particular event, that is attended by hundreds of racers from many states.
I staged my car in the right lane of the track with "competition mode" engaged, as I have every time in the past. The car launched straight and true as it normally does. After crossing the quarter mile finish line, when I let off the gas, the car made an immediate hook to the right, directly into the concrete retaining wall. I bounced off that wall, crossing the path of my opponent in the left lane, in a near collision, bouncing off the left wall, and then back over again into the right wall. I was able to get out of the car on my own.
I was completely stunned, because at the time I had absolutely no idea what caused any of this. Nothing made sense. By the time you cross the finish line, unless there's something on the track, any likelihood of loss of traction is pretty much behind you. After the weekend and when I was to the point where I could move somewhat freely, I began looking over the completely demolished car in my garage for any clues as to what possibly could have gone wrong. The only thing that makes sense to me that could have caused this type of action would probably have been a heavy braking of the right rear wheel. After doing some Google searching, I ended up here. I apologize if the answer is in one of these previous 46 pages, but I wanted to relay this experience before I read all of it and ask for any other enlightenment that anybody else could provide.
My 08 C6 does have the telescopic steering column, but it does not have the clip installed in the connector. I have not had any service active handling message on the DIC. Wheels and tires of the stock sizes. My son recorded this pass and accident on his phone and it shows the car turning right before any brake lights come on. Any help and information anyone can supply would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
I staged my car in the right lane of the track with "competition mode" engaged, as I have every time in the past. The car launched straight and true as it normally does. After crossing the quarter mile finish line, when I let off the gas, the car made an immediate hook to the right, directly into the concrete retaining wall. I bounced off that wall, crossing the path of my opponent in the left lane, in a near collision, bouncing off the left wall, and then back over again into the right wall. I was able to get out of the car on my own.
I was completely stunned, because at the time I had absolutely no idea what caused any of this. Nothing made sense. By the time you cross the finish line, unless there's something on the track, any likelihood of loss of traction is pretty much behind you. After the weekend and when I was to the point where I could move somewhat freely, I began looking over the completely demolished car in my garage for any clues as to what possibly could have gone wrong. The only thing that makes sense to me that could have caused this type of action would probably have been a heavy braking of the right rear wheel. After doing some Google searching, I ended up here. I apologize if the answer is in one of these previous 46 pages, but I wanted to relay this experience before I read all of it and ask for any other enlightenment that anybody else could provide.
My 08 C6 does have the telescopic steering column, but it does not have the clip installed in the connector. I have not had any service active handling message on the DIC. Wheels and tires of the stock sizes. My son recorded this pass and accident on his phone and it shows the car turning right before any brake lights come on. Any help and information anyone can supply would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,056
Likes: 277
From: Chattanooga, TN
Wow, I'm so sorry this happened to you. It's a miracle you are still alive after hitting the wall at that speed.
From my experience- the active handling message didn't show up on the DIC leading up to the 2 times my steering/braking went crazy.
My 2 events were at low speeds (5mph and 20mph) and luckily no traffic around, so I was able to look down as it was happening and see a bunch of warning messages. Oddly enough, those messages cleared when the car was turned off and didn't show up again until the during 2nd occurrence....and they cleared again after that. In both cases, there was zero warning ahead of time. I owned the car from 49,000 to 91,000 miles....and both cases showed up around 90,000 miles.
I'm sure everything was happening so fast and was a blur as you used your skills to try to save your life that you weren't able to see the warning messages in the DIC.
You might be able to have a shop pull from the OBD-2 port the history of error codes and you could tie this directly to the exact time of the accident to draw the correlation.
Did you hear a "thump thump thump" noise as it pulled? Was the steering incredibly stiff?
Again, so sorry this happen.....truly horrible.....especially for a very experienced track driver like yourself.
From my experience- the active handling message didn't show up on the DIC leading up to the 2 times my steering/braking went crazy.
My 2 events were at low speeds (5mph and 20mph) and luckily no traffic around, so I was able to look down as it was happening and see a bunch of warning messages. Oddly enough, those messages cleared when the car was turned off and didn't show up again until the during 2nd occurrence....and they cleared again after that. In both cases, there was zero warning ahead of time. I owned the car from 49,000 to 91,000 miles....and both cases showed up around 90,000 miles.
I'm sure everything was happening so fast and was a blur as you used your skills to try to save your life that you weren't able to see the warning messages in the DIC.
You might be able to have a shop pull from the OBD-2 port the history of error codes and you could tie this directly to the exact time of the accident to draw the correlation.
Did you hear a "thump thump thump" noise as it pulled? Was the steering incredibly stiff?
Again, so sorry this happen.....truly horrible.....especially for a very experienced track driver like yourself.
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 77
Likes: 30
From: Meridian Idaho
Thanks for the kind words. Unfortunately as you found out, ABS and AH codes, unlike PCM codes disappear when the power is shut off. After 3 meetings with the walls (one of my team mates estimates the first at 120mph, the second at 100 and the third backwards at 70) getting out of the wreckage was all I wanted to do and looking at the DIC didn't cross my mind! I am going to see if I can access the SDM which stores "event data", to hopefully determine what exactly happened. Thanks again. B.
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 199
Likes: 54
From: Jacksonville, FL
Good morning all. I'm fairly new on the forum but have a 2008 Z06 with telescoping steering wheel. Just been reading up on this and was looking to get an update on the most appropriate fix. I have not had SAH pop up that I've noticed but I did have the car take an abnormal sharp right while getting on it a couple months so it may or may not have been due to this. My carfax shows the BCM replaced years ago before I bought it but I don't know if it's related. Either way, I'd rather it never happen so I'd like to get ahead of it.
What is the consensus on the fix? From what I've read, the main how-to in this is on photobucket and no longer active. I've seen:
1. New SWPS (if this is the fix, part #?)
2. Zip tie SWPS connector so it stays tight
3. Comb mod (if this is the fix, part #?)
4. Unplug SWPS?
5. Other?
6. Is there a page of this thread I missed with an up-to-date how to with pictures?
I've turned off my auto adjustments on exit/entry.
What is the consensus on the fix? From what I've read, the main how-to in this is on photobucket and no longer active. I've seen:
1. New SWPS (if this is the fix, part #?)
2. Zip tie SWPS connector so it stays tight
3. Comb mod (if this is the fix, part #?)
4. Unplug SWPS?
5. Other?
6. Is there a page of this thread I missed with an up-to-date how to with pictures?
I've turned off my auto adjustments on exit/entry.
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 53
Likes: 16
From: Great Falls, MT
Replacing the SWPS isn’t difficult. The part number is on the sensor, and Rock Auto is a good source. I bought one from the dealer for $105. It took 17 minutes for the sensor to be centered, and cost me another $35. It takes at least a Tech 2 to make the adjustment.
I don’t think it’s a good idea to keep the SWPS unplugged. I did until I replaced it. I found that taking the plastic cover off, to get to the SWPS kind of a pain. Easy enough to to check the security of the connector, but that cover has to come off first.
Check my posts and you’ll find a lot of info on this with photos. Wayne Blaine
I don’t think it’s a good idea to keep the SWPS unplugged. I did until I replaced it. I found that taking the plastic cover off, to get to the SWPS kind of a pain. Easy enough to to check the security of the connector, but that cover has to come off first.
Check my posts and you’ll find a lot of info on this with photos. Wayne Blaine
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 199
Likes: 54
From: Jacksonville, FL
Replacing the SWPS isn’t difficult. The part number is on the sensor, and Rock Auto is a good source. I bought one from the dealer for $105. It took 17 minutes for the sensor to be centered, and cost me another $35. It takes at least a Tech 2 to make the adjustment.
I don’t think it’s a good idea to keep the SWPS unplugged. I did until I replaced it. I found that taking the plastic cover off, to get to the SWPS kind of a pain. Easy enough to to check the security of the connector, but that cover has to come off first.
Check my posts and you’ll find a lot of info on this with photos. Wayne Blaine
I don’t think it’s a good idea to keep the SWPS unplugged. I did until I replaced it. I found that taking the plastic cover off, to get to the SWPS kind of a pain. Easy enough to to check the security of the connector, but that cover has to come off first.
Check my posts and you’ll find a lot of info on this with photos. Wayne Blaine
From what I've read it's not necessarily the SWPS itself but instead the connector possibly being loose? Replacing the SWPS wouldn't fix that issue right? Does the Comb clip fix this?
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 26,243
Likes: 4,362
From: Chirper Island
FWIW, Mine ( the '05) had the message practically from day one, Supposedly, they "fixed it" several times under warranty. Wrapping the "ends". more than once. The Comb didn't fix it either. A couple of months at most and then the problem was back.
Mine was the slow version. Thank goodness it never tried to kill us.
The only thing that seems a permanent fix (for me) is the failure of the under-seat module. Fortunately, The seat and steering level failed at a good point for both ingress/egress and driving. The mirrors still adjust, but not automatically.
Frankly, after not getting the ISSUE after 5+years, I'm afraid to fix any of that crap. I do have a BCM/ RCDLR issue now.
Bertha is getting old, I don't want to get rid of her
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 199
Likes: 54
From: Jacksonville, FL
Thanks for the response. I'm trying to figure out the best way for the car not to try and kill me at any point in time. I'm waiting to hear back from my tuner but my research hasn't resulted in anything, can active handling be disabled with HP Tuners?
What about the LG trackbox that defaults to TC and AH off, will AH still try to reactivate if it senses an error?
What about the LG trackbox that defaults to TC and AH off, will AH still try to reactivate if it senses an error?