I would say that most of us have been stung by a shop/mechanic that didn't know what they're doing or didn't take proper precaution at one time or another and it's no fun at all. Walk away, get the parts you need and bring it to someone you can trust for repair/replacement. Leave the grief behind and look forward to the enjoyment when it's complete.

 

The only thing wrong with that is the ones you can trust are few and far between...unfortunately.

Monique

 

I totally agree. It's what I've often called the 10% rule. 10% of any trade or any business or any company or corporation or government or what have you, are the mover shakers, Creme-de-la-creme. The other 90% are just average (or below).

 

He wants a 200 dollar fee for towing when him and a buddy came and got a car on their own free will. He went to wal-mart to get a strap because he didn’t want to pay for a tow truck I was calling around for one and he told me to stop because he had an idea....... “Tow trucks can starch your car brb" he took the cheap way out.

 

What a freckin' mess!..... LAWYER TIME!

 

Yeah I dont think the people who worked on my car are not certified mechanics. If my mechanics says it was caused by them I wonder whos will stand in court? A certified mechanic that worked for chevy 8 yrs + or a non certified.

 

It funny how he is telling me coming straight from him "you will have to sign a paper clearing me" . Truth is he is not the boss of me and I dont have to sign nothing its seems like he trying to get out of this.

 

If a certified mechanic can starch your car good luck. Again, the real story on that is we tried 2 diff places to get a tow truck. One never answered. The other answered and said it would be 9 am until they could get a tow truck out to pick it up. I went and bought a strap and used it to tow you. The entire while you were asking me about putting gears in your car later on.

You do not think we are not certified mechanics? So that means you think we are? I can tell you, any monkey can pass an ASE test. I know, I passed 7 of them. Took 7 passed 7. Does that make me the same certified that your Mr Mechanic is? Giving a person a certificate of completion makes him certified? I have been working on cars longer than 8 years I can guarantee that. You do not have to work for a dealer just to know everything, but you do have to work for them to THINK you do.

I am not "trying to get" out of anything. The pictures are proof. The parts are proof. You are still trying to hold me liable for something that (to everyone else who is lucid) can clearly see is not possible or my fault. The first couple of posts and the ones after hit the nail on the head. The engine never should have just been rebuilt. What I wanted which I did not explain well is to be free of any other cost that your other mechanic may try to charge to me or any other repair he does.

The original problem that stopped the car was not found yet, but you do not care about that. You just care about making me pay. It was not my fault.

 

Lawyers are not the same in reality as they are in TV. When I am not to blame, who does the lawyer go after? The place originally responsible. The car was really driving less than 2 weeks.

Could this have happened if the car was not modded? Probably but we will not know now. Should the entire engine have been replaced the first time? Yes. It should have cost the same as the normal repair bill. If there was no question on the engine to begin with, then I would take full responsibility. There were too many questions and too many problems that I was not made aware of until after everything had happened.

 

Wow......just wow......

This sounds like a serious cluster-fuc%. The truth is that Gectec is right- ASE certifications really do not mean anything. I am a Technician and have been for a long time. I have known guys that were ASE Master certified and didn't have a hope in hell of diagnosing a car properly. FWIW, I do not have ANY ASE certifications. I am Master certified by the manufacturer who I work for, though. This took many years at actual training classes tearing down motors, etc. It wasn't just a study guide and a few tests at the local city college


But back to the real problem at hand..... It appears that the engine in the OP's car was improperly repaired after it was hydro-locked. It should have gotten a new long block. It is not 100% clear what exactly was done at the dealership. Looks like they removed the heads, but why? Were there bent valves from the water in the cylinders? If the insurance company was involved, why wasn't the rotating assembly/short block replaced? It seems obvious to me that repairs would be needed if water got into the crankcase and bearings.

If the insurance company was involved in the original repair, I would take the car back to them. The original cam tells the tale. There were damaged components that were not replaced after the hydro-lock. Those damaged parts could certainly cause oil pressure issues. I'd have that insurance claim re-opened if there was one.

Hope this gets worked out

Andy

 

Don't get me wrong but, is this the OP's car or daddys car... I think the one who really owns the car should take responsibility for the mess and go back to the dealer for some satisfaction... I'm not sure what that would be??? It is kind of like home owners and renters, if you have a true financial interest in something you tend to be more involved and TAKE BETTER CARE of it.... From what I have read, I find little fault in gectek's work. He just got involved with the wrong project.... There is alot more going on here than an bad cam install...

BTW, who on this board would not be allarmed about having only 15 lbs of oil pressure at idle, let along highway speed.. Even my wife and kids know better that to drive under those conditions...

Good luck with the mess, it is time to shell out some bucks and get that car straight. and call it a learning experience.

 

The car was damaged and was repaired at a dealer. It's quite possible that repair was inadequate, but once the OP went and had the engine modified by someone else, the original dealer can claim not at fault and likely escape liability. The second mechanic makes an excellent case that he's not responsible.

In other words, the OP is SOL and will have to eat it.

 

Safest way out. Crate motor time.

 

YOu may be right for your family, but there is different knowledge levels in most people. Most people haven't any idea what oil pressure is, or should be. That is obvious from this OP.

As to who is the owner or not, yes it matters, but not that much. It's obvious to me that neither one really fully comprehends what took place, but thought it was going and being done correctly.

Finally, I think airbus is correct: both "fixers" are semi-relieved of responsibility by now because of what they both have done, and by what the OP did not do such as know what really needed to be replaced after the hydrolock. And to the question, how much could he know?, the answer is still, "caveat emptor" (let the buyer beware).

Which means, this is now all on the OP, and his wallet. The one thing that can be guaranteed by getting a lawyer involved is that....the lawyer WILL get paid. But the OP may not.

Good luck, and better luck next time. It does sound as if the car needs to be thoroughly gone over, at quite a cost I'd guess, and taken better care of, deep water included. That's not a criticism, just an observation of the history.

 

It's an ugly situation all around. But it does prove one thing that is a recurring theme.

The absolute number one quality to look for in a dealer, repair shop or vendor is one that stands behind their work 200 per cent when there is a problem, no questions asked!

 

Well coming from gectek " 15 PSI is normal at idle" Did you or did you not say this gectek?

 

Car is at the mechanics shop….. I picked up the car it leaked oil all over the trailer maybe due to Gektek handing me my oil pan in a trash bag.

 

electrical issue is a bad ground somewhere, look over the work done. As far as low oil pressure of it was trully only after the cam then you have to assume cam bearing clearance issues but then again the pressure wouldnt be that low because of where the sensor is IMOP,,,, "AND" with all you engine issues from before hydrolock etc.. metal can dislodge at anytime and screw the pooch. Sucks this is going on but I really feel like after the read that the one to blame is the engine itself,,,,,,,, the ycan only take so much abuse. good luck with it, paul

 

normal cold maybe but not after engine reaches temp. If it were me on your car i would fix you issues and try and make it right,,,heres your issue as i see it, 2 many cooks in the kitchen and its going to be hard to get blame assigned to anyone