It's absolutely absurd that we all have to go through this garbage, in the thousands, and GM doesn't acknowledge a problem. It took them 5 years to acknowledge the "loose wire under the driver seat catches on the carpet and causes an airbag fault"...and resolve it with refunds for repairs that they should have fixed back then....

 

I'd like to know more about that air bag fault. What year(s)? TSB? Recall? TIA!

 

What is a "Tube Key"?

 

Do you have to remove the shift ****?

 

Pardon my ignorance.

What is an A4 and an A6?

 

I have a 2006 A6. I have been having this issue recently, my remedy was to turn engine off, wait a few seconds, re-start, and that usually did the trick. Sometimes it would take 2-3 shutdowns and re-starts, but never went terminal on me.

Today I drove by the dealer to make an appt for the #13146 "LOW-BEAM HEADLAMPS INOPERATIVE" recall notice, and the service rep asked me if I had had the shift cable replaced. He said "Does it get stuck in Park?", so I explained the history and my "fixes". He said I was lucky, and that one day the shifter cable would break and I would be stuck, doors wouldn't open, couldn't start car, all sorts of tales of biblical proportion doom and gloom. Said this was a prob with a lot of 06's, but sorted out and fixed for the 07's. Said many 06's got stranded, had to be towed in, etc., etc. Said the fix was about 3 hrs of labor, had to get under and "drop the bottom" to get to the shifter cable assembly (yes, he knew it was an A6, specifically talked about the A6), luckily they had one in stock bc it was a chronic issue, and as you know, 3hrs in the dealer's shop plus parts will run $400-$600 as mentioned above, he estimated about $500.

So question is (and I think I know the answer, but maybe some more knowledgeable wrenchers can enlighten/correct me), am I being taken?

The procedures described above (great photos and descriptions, btw!) appear to be straightforward, even for a knuckle-busting shadetree mechanic like me. I think I can do this, and if I have a prob, I would probably call GOLD72 (you remember I have your '72?).

Would appreciate comments about this, especially about the trustworthiness and so on of the dealers service rep, and anything else stated above.

You guys rock, thanks for making CF such a terrific resource and sounding board!

 

What is an A6. I searched Google.

 

A4 refers to an automatic transmission, pre-2006, A6 is the 6-speed auto introduced in the 2006 C6's.

Also see here: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-a4-vs-a6.html

 

nope

 

Dealer did not tell the full truth. There are two ways that can make you stuck in park, and I went through both. There is a locking pawl in the shifter assembly that sticks, but you can cut it off yourself, or tie it back and out of the way. The other way you can be stuck in park is the bushing on the shifter cable breaks, and then it won't be attached to the transmission anymore.

So if the dealer installs a new cable for you, the car can still get stuck in park via the locking pawl. The dealer will probably want to sell you the whole shifter assembly for much more money to correct the locking pawl issue.

I just picked up a brand new shift cable today at my local dealer because I broke mine while putting on a new bushing. I lifted the cable too high and it snapped.

 

You drill the hole and loop a piece of string or wire (I actually used a zip tie) through the hole to pull the locking latch back away from where it locks in place and tie it off at the back of the shifter assembly. This prevents the latch (pawl) from engaging and thus prevents the shifter from ever being stuck in park again.

 

dealer BS. GM sorted nothing out after MY2006. My 07 vert suffered both park lockout solenoid problems and split cable grommet. My son's 08 coupe also had lockout solenoid problems.

 

Did you have to take the shift **** off? Why did you drill the hole?

 

Rich, is there any way to determine which of the two problems it is (bushing v pawl)? Also, my remedy of shutting down and re-starting once or twice (yesterday again, two separate events, double shutdown/re-start required each time), does that offer any clues, and WHY a re-start (computer re-boot?) would clear the problem??? Something related to the solenoid that has been mentioned??? If the problem is the solenoid not engaging every start (seems like it is the culprit), is it the solenoid or the series of electronic steps to energize the solenoid? Does a new shifter assembly include all of the parts in the start sequence needed to make the solenoid work? (I prefer to rely on the forum than someone who is going to enrich the dealer, if you get my drift, lol.) TIA!

 

I just answered that question post #71 and no, you don't need to remove the shift ****.

 

If the cable bushing breaks you will still be able to move the shifter thru all positions but nothing will happen since the cable is disconnected from the shifter. If the solenoid won't release the pawl then you won't be able to move the shifter at all.

 

Sounds like you need the shifter assembly, because you are having intermittent problems. If it was the shift cable bushing/grommet that split, then that's different. The shift handle would move with ease because it's no longer attached to anything. Remember, the shifter assembly does not come with the shift cable, those are two separate parts to buy and install. Evrose above is right . I think the summer heat is taking a toll on these cheap plastic parts.

 

My theory is that the enclosed tunnel design of the C6 traps excessive heat underneath the console. The inferior plastic used for the grommets can't handle the thermal aging. The rear grommet is the same plastic design but fails far less frequently and my thoughts is because it is more open to the moving air stream at the rear of the car where the tranny is located.

 

For the most part yes. The parking lockout pawl and solenoid are an integral component to the entire shifter module. So hence, it is not possible to simply replace the solenoid separately (not available).

 

I think that is a good deduction. My hot center console is NOT a good place to put gum or mints, and definitely not a Snickers! There were some lengthy threads in 2006-7 about third-party aftermarket (or DIY) installation of a double-sided foil insulation for entire cockpit and trunk (I have a vert) carpet that seemed to have good reviews. Another thread was for a ceramic-coated plate for under-car mounting to dissipate heat buildup down that hellishly hot drive tunnel. Did you pursue either of those? I am going to have to dig them up, really do not like the heat buildup. Can't be good for any electronic device you may carry in the center console.

btw, GOLD 72 (now called GW, for "Golden Warrior") will be back on the road soon, have replacement rubber hoses for tank lines to fuel pump that need installing, others were OEM and supply side rotted and failed. Hope to meet up someday and say hello!