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HI, I dont know this i have z51 3lt an I found out that the batterie cover have space for a toll i don't know what is use for. I check my cousins c7 as well and he doesn't have it either i camm my sales man and they gonna investigate, you can check you owner manual if is there you have it too.
That space is for a "towing tool" of some type required for some export countries, as it was reported. No mention of where it goes and US tow truck operators probably would not know what to do with it, if in fact it fits anyware on North Amercian models.
That's normal, they're all (including mine) that way. Many overseas units require a tool for towing and I guess the molded insert is in all but not the tool in the US versions. We don't get the tool.
Originally Posted by Noel Ramos Arita
HI, I dont know this i have z51 3lt an I found out that the batterie cover have space for a toll i don't know what is use for. I check my cousins c7 as well and he doesn't have it either I call my sales man and they gonna investigate, you can check you owner manual if is there you have it too.
That space is for a "towing tool" of some type required for some export countries, as it was reported. No mention of where it goes and US tow truck operators probably would not know what to do with it, if in fact it fits anyware on North Amercian models.
It is an "eye" bolt tow hook that is screwed into a tow hook receptacle that is found behind a small panel located in the bumber. BMW's actually supply the eve bolt with every car that has run flat tires. I requested infromation from Chevrolet, but they never responded to weather there was a receptable behind the panel on the corvette!
You do find them on Camaro's though.
Go figure!
pgway, a previous post relating to this question showed a picture of the rear bumper cover removed. There is nothing behind the small opening in the bumper cover for the tow tool to screw into, even if you had the tool. Subaru supplies them also.
Can you tell me when my car was "born'? I ordered a 2LT but was lucky enough to purchased a 3LT that another had cancelled so I am not sure about the date created. Just been wondering about updates and the diff fluid, etc.
VIN # XE5107315. Happy New Year!!
Hi Kelly
I had the update for the hvac but my heat and air are still an issue. Also, I still have the dim dash issue. Is there a new fix?
Thanks,
VIN 1398
Steve
Hey Steve,
Send me all your information, including full VIN in a PM. If you had the update the DIC should not be dim and your HVAC should be good to go. I want to look into this for you. Include your dealers name too.
Send me all your information, including full VIN in a PM. If you had the update the DIC should not be dim and your HVAC should be good to go. I want to look into this for you. Include your dealers name too.
Thanks,
Kelly J.
Chevrolet Customer Care
Kelly,
I have written to your PM box twice since Dec. 27, and I have not received any reply. Am I doing something wrong? I would really like a response if you have some time. Thanks.
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No worries about sharing the issues, that is why I am here! I am super happy that you love your C7 in spite of a few concerns.
When you are ready to ready to go back into your dealership, please PM me with your full VIN, mileage, name, phone number and the name of your dealership. I will get everything set up for you.
The dealer has had my 2LT now for 3 weeks total time ( of which last 2 weeks straight) trying to resolve an issue why the whole HVAC control unit is dead ... back and forth with engineers etc and still zip. Telling me now the Experts are coming to look at it. Display is fine but all controls below are non-functional and not lighting. Good thing they gave me a loaner car ( Impala).
On another front I got the Zurich wheel and tire insurance...What a waste of money. They are horrible. I damaged 2 wheels and tires in a severe pot hole. Dealer said needed to be replaced ...and I agree...look BAD. They would only authorize a poor rim repair and no tire replacement. It is going to be brought to litigation with them.
Last edited by DeputySheriff; Jan 3, 2014 at 02:43 PM.
Kelly, I'm a liitle bit confused. I read somewhere on the forum that c7's built before 11/15 qualify for the update; those built after 11/15, the update is not necessary. My c7 was built close to 11/15 so I don't know where I stand.
My vin is 1G1YM3D77E5107274.
Please let me know my build date and if I need the update.
Thank you.
Covetable Top Latch Grommet Fractures Plastic Grommet Latch With Normal Install Proce
The decorative grommet that frames the opening of the small area where the convertible top latches to the windshield can break the plastic spring catch hole when the grommet is installed via the standard push-in snap installation approach. The grommet has an expansion spring push latch with which you push the latch spring into a small square opening that is made of about 1/8th inch plastic on the top side of the square opening. Unfortunately, the tension required to push the grommet spring in place can be greater than the tensile strength of the top 1/8th inch of plastic. That is, pushing the grommet spring into the spring opening latch hole can break the latch hole, leaving the grommet to not be attached. It will easily fall out with the slightest bump in the road and fall on your lap, or worse, fall on the floor or fall outside of the car to be gone forever. My C7 was delivered with a broken latch hole, thus the grommet fell out somewhere between the factor and delivery. The dealer ordered a new grommet, but it will also not stay in place because the latch hole that compresses the top of the spring to “snap” it into place is no longer there.
The “fix” that I found that works is to super-glue the broken plastic latch hole part that broke back together and let that dry. Then beef up the top of the 1/8 inch plastic hole with two-part epoxy bond formulated for hard plastic. Put on enough on the top side to support the latch hole so that the break-strength of the epoxy is greater than the push strength of the grommet spring, but not enough to interfere with the wiring for the top closing sensor that must be free to successfully open and close the top. I put about the same amount on the top of the hole, as the width of the top of the hole support bridge. Then also put a small film of it on the bottom of the broken part, but very little, as it cannot add additional tension to the spring closing or it will break again. you only want to fill in voids in the broken plastic. Allow that to dry. Then with a fingernail file that is small enough to smooth out the hole’s inside top, where the grommet spring must rest, file any rough edges and excess epoxy from the bottom of the top of the latch bridge. Next, install the grommet in the manor specified in the manufacturing procedure (that is, put the top of the grommet in the grommet top hole and “snap” the lower spring into place in the repaired opening for the spring. Wala, fixed and read for the road. Only problem is, it will not now pass a Bloomington Gold inspection because it is not fixed correctly (i.e. all new GM certified parts). Garage home-fix epoxy is not Bloomington Gold Certified. Dang!
In time, Chevy should send a tech bulletin on this and tell dealers what the problem is and how to fix it. And they will get a stronger hole for the spring, or a softer spring. But that is too early now. This detailed memo is intended to inform readers and Chevy of the issue and help get the fix going.
NickHall
The decorative grommet that frames the opening of the small area where the convertible top latches to the windshield can break the plastic spring catch hole when the grommet is installed via the standard push-in snap installation approach. The grommet has an expansion spring push latch with which you push the latch spring into a small square opening that is made of about 1/8th inch plastic on the top side of the square opening. Unfortunately, the tension required to push the grommet spring in place can be greater than the tensile strength of the top 1/8th inch of plastic. That is, pushing the grommet spring into the spring opening latch hole can break the latch hole, leaving the grommet to not be attached. It will easily fall out with the slightest bump in the road and fall on your lap, or worse, fall on the floor or fall outside of the car to be gone forever. My C7 was delivered with a broken latch hole, thus the grommet fell out somewhere between the factor and delivery. The dealer ordered a new grommet, but it will also not stay in place because the latch hole that compresses the top of the spring to “snap” it into place is no longer there.
The “fix” that I found that works is to super-glue the broken plastic latch hole part that broke back together and let that dry. Then beef up the top of the 1/8 inch plastic hole with two-part epoxy bond formulated for hard plastic. Put on enough on the top side to support the latch hole so that the break-strength of the epoxy is greater than the push strength of the grommet spring, but not enough to interfere with the wiring for the top closing sensor that must be free to successfully open and close the top. I put about the same amount on the top of the hole, as the width of the top of the hole support bridge. Then also put a small film of it on the bottom of the broken part, but very little, as it cannot add additional tension to the spring closing or it will break again. you only want to fill in voids in the broken plastic. Allow that to dry. Then with a fingernail file that is small enough to smooth out the hole’s inside top, where the grommet spring must rest, file any rough edges and excess epoxy from the bottom of the top of the latch bridge. Next, install the grommet in the manor specified in the manufacturing procedure (that is, put the top of the grommet in the grommet top hole and “snap” the lower spring into place in the repaired opening for the spring. Wala, fixed and read for the road. Only problem is, it will not now pass a Bloomington Gold inspection because it is not fixed correctly (i.e. all new GM certified parts). Garage home-fix epoxy is not Bloomington Gold Certified. Dang!
In time, Chevy should send a tech bulletin on this and tell dealers what the problem is and how to fix it. And they will get a stronger hole for the spring, or a softer spring. But that is too early now. This detailed memo is intended to inform readers and Chevy of the issue and help get the fix going.
NickHall
Thanks again Kelly for the quick response! Now I know my car is a Scorpio...LOL...very smart!!!! Have a great new year!!!! BTW...I love my car!!! The photo is from Coffee and Cars yesterday and that guy was taking tons of pictures of my car. He loved it too!! Yeah!!
Last edited by TexasFFchick; Jan 5, 2014 at 05:38 PM.
Reason: Add picture
Had a similair experience this AM. Brakes were squealing when I backed out of the garage, 3LT convertible. Have about 580 miles. Any solution yet?
Originally Posted by c7stingray
Crystal red z51 3lt 620 miles
So I'm taking my c7 in tomorrow as the brakes squeal at low speeds when barely applying the brakes (15mph-0) I thought maybe brake dust or new brakes but this sounds like a bus. And worst it doesn't do it every single time so gonna have to recreate it for the dealer. Does it 8/10 times tho so shouldn't b a problem. Read around that it's common with ceramic brakes but def not acceptable on a 70k car. Will keep updated on solutions. Wish me luck!
Had a similair experience this AM. Brakes were squealing when I backed out of the garage, 3LT convertible. Have about 580 miles. Any solution yet?
This *could* simply be a bi-product of having "aggressive" brake pads. I can tell you I had this issue with both BMWs I've owned, the later being an M3. Dealers and non dealer shops all told me this is the tradeoff for having your car stop on a dime. I know when some BMW owners moved away from the OEM pads, the low speed squeal went away. Maybe the same issue here? Drove me NUTS, so I feel your pain.
When I back out of my garage, I need to turn the wheel fully to avoid hitting the bottom of the driveway. At full turn I hear a "thump, thump, thump. This happens whether I turn left or right. Is this normal? I have also noticed it a couple times when making a full turn at low speed when going forward!