Do the brakes really cost $20k to replace, because that would be a gigantic jump from basically the same CCB brakes on C6 & C7. He's getting a little too clickbaitish with his vids unfortunately.

 

Don’t know what they cost but dealer direct, rotors, pads, and install I wouldn’t doubt it. I do remember reading a thread about it where people thought replacement prices would be similar to the C7 CCB’s you can buy on Amazon for a much more reasonable price. Don’t believe these CCB’s are available yet at these discounted rates… hopefully they are eventually.

 

The rotors are different than C7/6 CCBs; larger diameter and list for over $4K each and aren't available discounted/direct anywhere at this time.

 

Well, he has an online presence, and using that platform to imply that those experiencing issues may be related to improper break in or owner neglect is a ***** move... But I guess if he wants another special car he needs to bend over and be the man puppet they paid for.
If I were one of the owners with legitimate issues, I'd be all up in his social spaces putting him on blast.

 

From what I can pull up they appear to be basically the same size as the C7 (15.7 vs 15.5) That's quite the markup.

 

I doubt the C7 rotor would mount up on the C8 hub (slightly different wheel stud pattern).

 

That shouldn't make the rotor nearly 4x the cost as the previous gen's CCBs.

 

Don't forget, the new rotors have that little Jake logo on it, increases the value of a Corvette purchase.

 

Completely agree. Perhaps with time it will be available at a lower price.

 

I forgot about that, you solved it Dave

 

minimum warm up time to hammer it 20 min to get everything up to temp

 

I don't agree with the Chevy engineers who have the tach redline go to 8600 RPM with a water temperature of 130* and oil temps of 115* or even less even though it does nothing to limit what you do with the engine below 8600 RPM. I always used a minimum of 160* 0il temp as a guideline before going full throttle.

 

BTW Ferrari wants all temps up to 160F before hammer down. In my experience this is about 20 minutes of a nice drive. I use the same formula for all vehicles. 20 minutes of warm up before hammer.

 

Back in C5 days with a big cam and dual valve springs it was always 150 oil temp for me. I'd pull it up on the DIC and keep car under 3K until then. Never had a spring issue in many years of hard use.

 

lol I know where you are going with this as Myself and Husband realized that the Z06 barely ever get over 160. Especially if you are driving on highway. (mine is not broken in yet) But we let our cars warm up to 150 before we even drive out the driveway. The GT500 gets to 160 fast and will keep going and steady out at 175-180. My C7Zr1 would get to 180-190 quickly as well, I had my Z started for the same time as the GT500 and my gauge would not get about 158.

 

You guys need to look at oil temp, not coolant.

 

The best way to warm it up is to start it, buckle up and start driving, keeping the RPMs under 3000 until the water temp gets above about 150, then normal street driving. You want to oil temp at 160*+ before really running it in the upper RPM range.

 

I disagree, we have had multiple cars that we track and literally have built several all out drag cars. The "Best way" would be to get a warming pad and plug the vehicle in and set the temp to about 100-120 as this will evaporate any moisture in the oil without cooking it and have the oil thinner for an easier start up to let the vehicle get to temp. Again there are many ways to peel an orange, I've peeled plenty my way without having to take a car back for any issues or engine problems till date besides the race cars that actually got hurt do to me pushing the limits at the track. But hey I am just a girl What do I know.

 

My last race car had a 20 qt. dry sump oil tank and you plugged the AC power in to warm the oil up to about 180*, took the dry sump belt off and used a 90* pneumatic socket to turn over the oil pump to get 80 PSI in the system before starting it, so I know the deal.

I presumed you were driving street cars on the street. Even the manufacturers of our high performance cars recommend starting them up and driving modestly right off and not to let them sit and idle to warm up.

Gender had nothing to do with my comment. The car doesn't care either.

 

LOL I agree there are many ways to peel this onion.
In my opinion allowing the lubricant to warm these days in these cars is a bit overblown.

Synthetic lubricants flow well all the way down to very low temperatures well below zero.
So at anything much above freezing the lubricant can flow and protect just fine AND it can flow freely enough not to cause excessive oil pressure or component oil starvation by being "to thick and slow flowing" at start up.

Point is, what are we attempting to prevent by allowing the fluid to warm up?
Once you actually answer this question you will know any decent synthetic lubricant at any temperature above freezing will flow fast enough and freely enough to protect the components and not create excessive oil pressure within 30 seconds of start up.

So If you are talking 120* fluid temperature and above with a synthetic lubricant you really have nothing to worry about.
One of the main advantages of synthetic is to extend the middle protection range (stabilize viscosity) of the lubricant allowing it to flow freely at very high temps and very low temps.
Don't fool yourself you aren't waiting on synthetic to do anything. For most occasions we encounter it always ready.

That all being said it doesn't hurt to let things warm up a bit when its really cold out (below freezing).

https://www.caranddriver.com/researc...synthetic-oil/