Cage Progress
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 3,382
Likes: 250
So lets say you are a chicken. If rules say you can use 1.75" x 095 wall, There is no problem with using 120 wall on critical areas like rollover hoop and doorbars and then 095 in other areas. You can have the best of both worlds.
Pro
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 553
Likes: 4
From: Huntersville NC
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,418
Likes: 21
From: Macon, GA
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,937
Likes: 65
From: Mooresville NC
Well, I tried to save it. At least the blower motor is still good. Had it not been for my oldest daughter, I would have had to take off the intake. I could NOT get bottom AC line bolt and she was able to reach it and get it started.
After I cut my hand for the forty-eleventh time and hit my head on the cage, $h!t started flying and it flew about eight feet out of the car. My daughter got to watch me turn into the Tasmanian Devil.
After I cut my hand for the forty-eleventh time and hit my head on the cage, $h!t started flying and it flew about eight feet out of the car. My daughter got to watch me turn into the Tasmanian Devil.
Last edited by brkntrxn; Dec 25, 2011 at 10:33 PM.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,937
Likes: 65
From: Mooresville NC
The interior is coming together. I took the opportunity to reroute and clean up some of the wiring. No cutting, just rebundling and zip tie'ing. Not Mark/Scott/Brian worthy, but good enough for me.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 4,629
Likes: 19
From: Chesapeake VA
Nice work Kevin. What are the two switches for? I like the switches you picked vs. the plain metal toggle I used. I agree working on the car post cage is a PITA! I did all my parts removal and wire reorganization before the cage. Like you I just re-routed and labeled the wires vs. cutting anything major out.
I had no issues removing my HVAC box, but I followed the service manual instructions which tell you to remove the blower fan assembly first which gives you just enough room to get the box out. I had already removed all the lines in the engine bay when I had my intake manifold off, so getting the box the rest of the way out wasn't hard. I don't see how it could be done with the manifold still in place.
Here are the closeout panels I made for the firewall. I used textured ABS plastic and used rivets and a line of black RTV around the edge. Here's a picture, there are 3 covers in all, one is small and circular toward the bottom center of the picture.
EDIT: If you look at the bottom left corner of the largest panel you'll see I used a door plug to fill that hole. I ended up removing that plug when I installed my kill switch. I used it to run the wires through the firewall and I drilled one next to it for the fire suppression system line.
I had no issues removing my HVAC box, but I followed the service manual instructions which tell you to remove the blower fan assembly first which gives you just enough room to get the box out. I had already removed all the lines in the engine bay when I had my intake manifold off, so getting the box the rest of the way out wasn't hard. I don't see how it could be done with the manifold still in place.
Here are the closeout panels I made for the firewall. I used textured ABS plastic and used rivets and a line of black RTV around the edge. Here's a picture, there are 3 covers in all, one is small and circular toward the bottom center of the picture.
EDIT: If you look at the bottom left corner of the largest panel you'll see I used a door plug to fill that hole. I ended up removing that plug when I installed my kill switch. I used it to run the wires through the firewall and I drilled one next to it for the fire suppression system line.
Last edited by travisnd; Dec 26, 2011 at 07:40 AM.
Racer
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 4,434
Likes: 18
From: Braselton GA
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,937
Likes: 65
From: Mooresville NC
Thanks. The two switches are for my transponder and Cool Suit. Morris and I fab'ed up those panels when we still had the dashes and all. I have always had my transponder on a switch because I didn't want it killing the little battery. It also worked very well for when Morris borrowed the car and used another transponder.
BJ got Morris' unit out in one piece, I have pictures of it. However, his arms are smaller than mine and he told me I was going to have trouble with the bottom AC line bolt. Tiffany got it loose for me and then I could get my fingers on it. I followed BJ's instructions and cross-referenced them to one of your past posts. The blower motor was the first thing I pulled out. The problem was the dash bar from the cage. I just could not get enough clearance to come up and over it. I am certain it would have been easy to do pre-cage, but I didn't have time due to the family situation.
Thanks for the pics on the panels. I happen to have some of that ABS stuff left over from when I ordered the sheet for the switch panels.
-Kevin
BJ got Morris' unit out in one piece, I have pictures of it. However, his arms are smaller than mine and he told me I was going to have trouble with the bottom AC line bolt. Tiffany got it loose for me and then I could get my fingers on it. I followed BJ's instructions and cross-referenced them to one of your past posts. The blower motor was the first thing I pulled out. The problem was the dash bar from the cage. I just could not get enough clearance to come up and over it. I am certain it would have been easy to do pre-cage, but I didn't have time due to the family situation.
Thanks for the pics on the panels. I happen to have some of that ABS stuff left over from when I ordered the sheet for the switch panels.
-Kevin
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,937
Likes: 65
From: Mooresville NC
Made a bit more progress tonight.
- finished the wire rebundling and probably used 5lbs of zip ties
- fabbed some panels for the holes in the firewall (ABS plastic with epoxy and rivets)
- stabilized the gauge pod
- tucked away the mirror wiring in the doors
- made some FANCY door handles
- finished the wire rebundling and probably used 5lbs of zip ties
- fabbed some panels for the holes in the firewall (ABS plastic with epoxy and rivets)
- stabilized the gauge pod
- tucked away the mirror wiring in the doors
- made some FANCY door handles
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,937
Likes: 65
From: Mooresville NC
I also worked on my seat mounts and brackets in an attempt to get the seat lower and provide more clearance to the bar that goes over the door. After TWO hours, I came to the conclusion that I am already as low as I am going to get using the Sparco base and brackets. I'll fabricate something when I have more time and just live with it for now.
Ordered a mirror and some padding today. Hopefully they will come in before I take the car to the shop for a prototype oil cooler.
-Kevin
Ordered a mirror and some padding today. Hopefully they will come in before I take the car to the shop for a prototype oil cooler.
-Kevin
Last edited by brkntrxn; Dec 27, 2011 at 12:22 AM.
