[QUOTE=AKjeff;1606331882]The power steering leaked and the belt is in the way of the alternator belt.
If I'm on a trip somewhere and need to replace the alternator belt I'll be looking for some means of getting the front of the car off the ground to get to the P/S pump bolts.
Also, I don't think I'll need it, my first three pickups were manual steering, I have always preferred the simplicity.

Start looking for a good later model C3 manual steering center link also referred to as a drag link or center section.
The later model years are larger diameter.
Know the difference between the ps and manual center links.
I had several vendors who advertised ps and the earlier links as the later model and manual links.
They are getting hard to find!

 

Once you pop the alternator out, you can easily access the PS pump bolts from the top - it's a simple system to repair and maintain.

That 383 is going to be awesome on the street! What cam are you going with?

 

I hadn't thought about pulling the alternator to access the P/S pump bolts, good point to keep in mind for the future, thanks.
It's all out now, with the conversion parts in. I didn't want to take the time to track down the correct steering center link that OCB mentioned, I bought the center link conversion end from Borgeson to get the car on the road.
If I decided I like the M/S I'll hunt down the correct factory part, and I'll hang onto the P/S parts so I can rebuild and install P/S later, should I decide too.

The cam is a custom from Jones Cams, 110* L/C, 280*, 284* Int/Exh duration on the seat, .528" lift w. 1.6 rockers.

I was using a computer program, trying to pick a cam, I began to distrust the results I was getting.
With various cams the numbers weren't changing in the ways I thought they would.
I contacted Jones Cams for input and was told the program is unreliable, this was the grind they recommended for my build and intended use.

This is my first performance build, I really wanted to pick my own cam but would prefer to get it right on the first build.
Once I have this as a baseline, and see how it behaves, I can start changing things if I decided that I want something different later.

 

That's going to be a hot cam! Can't go wrong with a professional spec'd grind! What do you think that 383 will make? Is it going to hit the 500HP mark?

 

The cam grinder told me he thinks it will make a bit over 400 HP and around 430 torque.

 

I was able to swing by the engine shop today and pick up my fresh block: she has a clean bill of health and everything is fresh and clean! I used my favorite tool, tractor with loader, to quickly get the engine back on a stand and into my shop to build.




I also picked up a 4x4 to make a safer setup to lift the body: cut two 12" pieces to lift with two jacks, and four 6" pieces to hold the body up on the frame. I used two jacks at a time on one side and very slowly started lifting up.. had some snags that were resolved. I put the blocks on the side and slid them in so that side would only be 3.5" up. then brought my two jacks to the passenger side to get it up to the full 6" . worked great!



Here's the offending rust damage on the drivers side. Besides surface rust, i've found no surprises on the frame, and the kick up are really solid! The body channels are in great shape too!




This is what I did to support the front and keep it from sagging too much: simple ratchet straps



Sitting nicely on the 6" blocks



Below we see the remnants of the build sheet found.. unfortunately I don't think anything will be legible



How I left her in the shop tonight: Body and frame up!


Here's a look at the rust damage on the PS : not as bad , but still going to cut everything out and weld fresh metal in.




So at this point, I need to sand blast and weld in the metal repairs. I'd knock it out this weekend, but rented an excavator to landscape my pond and property... so we'll have to wait until the following weekend... I think I'm going to make a jig with 4x4's to hold the body up, and roll the frame out for blasting and repair. I need the weight off the frame tails before I start cutting and welding.

So that leaves engine painting then assembly next week. , then knock out that frame and we're on the home stretch!

 

awesome reference. thank you!

I've got 6 or 8 cranks to I.D. from my fathers collection. Hoping one is an LT-1 so I can pair it with my N.O.S. pink rods in building a "hot" LT-1 when I restore my 70'

 

Looking good!
Nice job getting it up off the frame!

 

My frame measured 0.110" thick in many locations. You can use that as a check to see how much it has "thinned" due to the corrosion.

And these guys have the original GM frame molds, and can sell you any frame section you might need, up to a complete new frame.
http://www.vetteproducts.net/

 

Thanks! wasn't too bad! And not very many shims on the mounts, just the #1 & #3

How did you measure the thickness of your frame? Hopefully I don't have to order anymore metal, I got my frame ends today from Zip. I'll check out the link you sent!

 

Ya gotta Sawzall? That's the first thing you'll need! Take a piece out of the middle for your baseline.

 

I got plenty of cutting tools! I already started cutting some metal, I'll hit it with my caliper.

 

I used both a digital caliper and a micrometer. Wherever I could get it to fit, holes, edges, etc.
The trick is rust has to be cleaned off your measuring spot, rust is way "thicker" than the original steel. Paint is OK tho, it's thin.

 

OMG, don't hit it with your caliper! You're going to need a BWH to do the job right! 😁

 

I like how you supported the nose
Out of interest, are you keeping the recessed headlights and fender flares?

 

Thanks! It's scary how flimsy the nose is once you unbolt it from the frame, and I wasn't comfortable with the flex so supported it like that.

I'm not a fan of the fixed headlights, and they'll never go back on! I do love the flares though. I'll eventually have some deep dish 18" wheels on it, one day....

 

Had an excavator and a dumpster rented over the weekend, and worked my tail off on my property: landscaped and cleaned pond, moved landscaping, ripped out an old green house, and cleaned up my property. All I know is, I need an excavator now! lol






Had some time last night, and pulled my block out the bag to clean up and get ready for paint... I was shocked to find my "new" cam bearings installed by Ray Charles! I called the machine shop this morning and talked to the owner, he was surprised one of his guys sent it out like that but said he'd make it right and put new ones in himself. Annoying I have to bring it back, but at least he's standing behind his work.

 

My objective this weekend was to get the fuel tank & transmission removed, then build a body jig that would allow me to safely toll the chassis

I started with the fuel tank, I wanted to get it pulled in order to give me clearance to roll the chassis out without having to have the body too high. I've suspected there was a leak in my gas tank, because whenever I'd fill it up, my garage would smell like gas, despite there never being a visible leak. Well as soon as I loosened up the straps, it started leaking away! (And yes I did drain all the fuel out that would come out!) Once pull I discovered a nice hole in he bottom.. New fuel tank added to the parts list!




I was hoping I'd be able to have a little bit of the build sheet legible: NO DICE




Went ahead and dropped the trans, since it was going to be too difficult to support it when I move the chassis around. Took two bolts, and was quick and easy to drop it out!




Those with a keen eye are probably wondering WTF is there an aftermarket Richmond Super T-10 in an LT-1?! Wish I knew...




Now everything was out the way, I could start slowly working the body up on a jig made with wooden 4x4's supported my jack stands:

 

Love seeing your progress and all the methods you use! Thanks for posting your pics!

 

Nice work of lifting the body.