as long as the frame is bare and sealed, powder coating is incredibly strong. I would tape off where ever you have a ground strap because otherwise you will be grinding through the fresh powder coating to get a good ground

 

I have had TWO C3 frames sandblasted and powdercoated for $600 each You cannot beat that price.....worth every penny. And the quality is top notch.....sealed for life;

 

My original plan was to sandblast myself and POR-15... But since my compressor can't keep up with the sandblaster, I got to pay someone to do it... So I'm at the point that I might as well let them powder coat it too! How durable is it to rock chips? Jack stands? etc?

 

Tonight I got my frame flipped over to finish welding up the new metal, and cleaning up the frame.

I've made a total mess out of my new shop, but having a blast in this Corvette tornado!



Getting a lot of practice to improve my welding on this frame - not too bad for an amateur!



Passenger side fully burned it, just got to wrap up dressing the metal to blend it with the old.



I was able to move to a different trouble area: The sway bar mounts. This are is weak, and mine were bent (not to mention I still have two broke bolts I need to remove) . I bent everything back, and started to weld in a reinforcement bracket, and my MIG gas tank ran empty! that's why my weld look crappy there. I'm thinking a gusset, and this area would be stout! Any thoughts on this or tips from different methods?



Then there was the #3 mount that I had to cut the bolt. Reproductions are on back order, so it was in my best interest to get this bolt out and salvage this piece! I was able to weld a nut to the broken bolt, spray some Kroil on the hot threads, then work her out! Victory!!!!!




I also took time to cut off all the random metal brackets that were welded or bolted to the frame, and weld the holes up and grind them down to clean up the frame. definitely had sloppy welded side pipe brackets from a previous owner to clean up, but frame is just about ready to head to the blaster!

While I'm going to the blaster, I have some questions for powder coating:

1. what are other parts that are commonly powder coated from the chassis?
2. Do you just use clean up taps on the threads on the frame after wards ?
3. How do you handle the grounds?

 

I was wondering if you are going to address your caved in front cross member? Mine is caved in like yours, like many c3's. I am contemplating to cut out just the caved in section, hammer and smooth it out, weld it back in, grind the welds flush.
Do you want to experiment on yours for me?

 

theres a dent puller tool for rent going arouund that will reshape that to stock...look in the for sale section




here it is...first page on how to borrow it
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...oval-tool.html
the last page and a reference on how to use it...but do some reseearch I have used one and its easy to use
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ispreloading=1

 

Funny you ask because this has been bothering me, and I resolved not to go through all this and have a powder coated frame with a dent! So I called Mercury20 this week, and of course he had a dent removal tool, and was kind enough to lend it to me! I went and met him for lunch yesterday, talked Corvettes, traded some parts, and got his dent puller to use this weekend!! You meet the coolest people off this forum!

 

David Howard (ALLC34Me) is the primary contact person on the forum to use one of the dent removal tools.
PM him and he will get back to you.
The best option is after you finish repairing the front crossmember is to purchase one of David’s crossmember reinforcement plates.
They bolt directly onto the crossmember, add strength so you can actually use the crossmember as a jacking plate and come with two nice welded on tow hooks if you ever need them.

David is the guru on C3 frames, he is always willing to help anyone who asks, and is a great guy.
If you have any frame questions, ask David.
He spends much of his time on his Facebook page.

As far as powder coating your frame, any good powder coating shop will plug any and all threaded holes on any part they powder coat, but be specific.
Tell them you want all threaded holes plugged and make sure they note it.
If you plan to keep this car for some time ask them to prime the chassis after it’s blasted.
Some people do it and some people don’t because it does add some to the cost.
Find a powder coating shop that has excellent reviews, who has been in business for a long time and one who does automotive parts.
Make sure their oven is large enough to bake your frame and ask to see pictures of their past work.

Good Luck!

 

I broke out the Dent repair tool Saturday morning and opened a can of worms! No matter what I tried, I couldn't get the plate that goes inside the crossmember sit flat inside so I could get the bolt threaded, it was cocked at an angle due to the dent in the back I presume. So I decided to stop wrestling it, and start cutting out metal out below the crossmember hole so i could angle the bolt to thread it in: first cut was no good, second cut was a mess and still couldn't get the bolt in! Finally monkeyed the bolt in, and started to tighten it up: didn't pull the dent! Pulled it apart and I had cross threaded the damn bolt! So here I am with a simple task, simple tool, and created a far bigger mess than I started with, and may have to buy another one of these damn tools to replace it! !!! Time for a beer! I welded the pieces back in, grinded it down, and bent the dent out the best I could. I'm just going to bolt a jacking plate over this, I'm done wasting time!



Next was to finish welding up my gussets on the front of the frame where the sway bar mounts attach. I think they came out pretty good, and I was able to remove the broken bolts in the nuts while I was at it too. I'm confident they won't bend again!




Next was to get ALL the bushings and brackets off the frame, so I tackled the toughest one first: differential crossmember cushion mounts. This is a major PITA! I couldn't find anything on the interwebs on how to remove them, so took some messing with to get the first one out. The have metal tabs bent over 90 degrees that have to be straightened out, then you press them out. This took major persuasion with my 20 ton press to break the rubber out, then beat the metal shell out with a punch.


VICTORY!



Next up was to burn the #3 body mounts back in. I had a lot of measurements to go by for this, and got them put in [hopefully] the exact spot they were previously




I spent the rest of my time finishing grinding out any sloppy welds/burrs on the frame. Filled a couple of holes, and removed the last couple of brackets. Now it was time to load her up, to go to the sandblaster and get powder coated! Quite the journey just to get to this point, I have a whole new appreciation for people restoring a frame! It's labor intensive!

 

Nice work!
I will be doing this real soon and appreciate you posting pictures.
I also love the lawn art you have displayed next to your barn.
Will it continue to be lawn art or is it going to be your next restoration project?

 

No problem! Do you have any rust damage, or will you just be welding in the gusset kit you bought?

Thanks! That '47 Cub is just yard art - I had wanted an old patina tractor for yard art, and my wife tracked this down and bought it for me as a present!!! I'm never planning on restoring it, I like it in front of the barn . I do have another '49 Cub in much better shape that'll eventually get restored.

 

I went to the Powder Coater during lunch today to drop my frame off. It was quite the operation, with a LOT going on! I dropped the frame with: diff crossmember, front frame extensions/bumper reinforcements, parking brake brackets, and steering ram bracket. They're going to do a Zinc Phosphate primer, plug all holes, and a satin black finish. Total bill is $775. Unexpected expense, but excited to see the results!

 

I don’t have any rust damage, that I know of, or that I have seen.
It sounds like you scored finding a good powder coating shop and their prices seem reasonable.
It is money well spent!

 

With my frame at the powdercoater , my goal this week was to catch up on my yard work, get the heads on my engine, and paint my half shafts. Good news is I got busy early in the week with my chainsaw and chemical sprayer to clean up my land, bad news is I stepped on a board with a rusty nail that nearly went though my foot! This put me out of action for several days, and if y'all can't tell, I can't sit still!!!!! So I hobbled over to my garage tonight as soon as I was starting to feel better to get busy on my engine.

First order of action was to pull some of the pistons back out.. When I put the pistons in a few weeks back, and posted a picture, I noticed I had the #8 & #5 swapped! Not sure how I didn't notice, but that's a big no no with used pistons, and had to be fixed. I pulled the slugs out, and popped them back home to their proper cylinders.



Next was to get my heads on and torqued down . I used the Mahle 5746, and torqued in three sequences: 25lb, 45lb, & 65lb . After I did them both, I went back and loosened the bolts and retorqued them all down with the same sequence.


Next was to get the valve train installed: retro rollers, Howard's pushrods, and roller rockers all installed: starting to look like a proper engine again!






After I got everything assembled, I went to put my new oil pan on: didn't fit because it had a built in windage tray in it, vs my LT-1 with the windage tray that attached to the main bolts. Those extended main bolts interfered with the windage tray on the new oil pan. So I have two choices: refurbish my original oil pan, or get normal main bearing bolts that won't interfere. What do y'all think?

 

Cut the studs off the bolts.

 

Yeah I think that sounds like the quickest and easiest option! Is there any value in those windage trays and bolts?

 

I have no idea, I don't think the bolts would be a rare or hard to find item if you cut them.

 

PLEASE DONT CUT THE STUDS!!! I will send you bolts if you sell me the studs and tray. I have some ready to go.

 

Nice work and getting it done after stepping on a nail.
I stepped on a nail when I was a kid and it went in real deep.
The worst part was pulling it out and having to walk home.
Even worse was my mom taking me to the doctor for a tetanus shot.

 

stock bolts for windage trays are hard to find that are the correct length....