I had no idea. Given the scarcity of some fairly common parts I shouldn't be surprised.

 

This is what I needed to confirm! Happy to sell them to you with the windage tray, I have the stock LT-1 oil pan too, but it needs the paint stripped and it's dented up. I guess shoot me an offer and we'll work it out, you've been more than fair with me in the past.

 

yeah I was tromping through my yard and it went straight through! luckily I had antibiotics on hand, and a tetanus in the past five years so made it out unscathed!

 

Yeah I wasn't certain if these were rare either, but this forum always has the right people to ask!

Is the performance of the LT-1 windage setup better than the SBC oil pans with the built in windage trays?

 

Just went outside to take pics of old oil pan, and fit new one.. removed main bolts with studs, and put new oil pan on: doesn't line up at all! I bought the Dorman 264-104, why is it see different? see below -

 

There's some info in this thread:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...g-dilemma.html
about a change in small block oil pans.

It might be what you're running into.

 

That's an interesting read! I may need to refurbish the original pan! Thanks for sharing!

 

Ive learned the hard way with Milodon and Moroso racing pans to use their gaskets. Why the new pan doesnt line up is anyones guess. Must be made on a newer block or just a manufacturer's mistake. Maybe its a one piece rear main seal pan
If it were a big block i could tell you the different generation changed the bolt patterns on the pan when they changed seals

 

Just pay close attention for the slightest sign of infection.
About 15 years ago, a friend of mine who I worked with stepped on a nail while doing an investigation.
The nail nicked a bone in his foot and two weeks later he was in the hospital because he dismissed the redness around the entry sight.
He found out then he was diabetic, the infection had traveled through his foot up into his leg and they removed his leg just below the knee.
A month later they removed the rest of his leg just under the hip.

 

Yeah you're reinforcing that I should stick with the stock pan!

 

Well this is beyond terrifying!!!! I'm assuming he wasn't taking antibiotics??

 

No he wasn’t, didn’t think it was necessary to see a doctor, and went on vacation the day after he stepped on it.

 

Still waiting to get my frame back from powder coating, but I got started on blasting and painting some brackets tonight. It's amazing what some elbow grease and spray paint can do!

First up was radiator brackets.. these have been sitting in my blast cabinet, and started to rust again. Blasted again and hit them with some fresh satin black




Next up: Half shaft



This silver paint is brighter than expect, but I think it looks pretty good

 

Looking good!

 

I wanted to check my PTV clearance with some clay since my engine was on a stand and considering the duration and lift of this cam. I have a couple of questions if anyone has insight:

1. I read you need a solid lifter for an accurate reading - If I don't have one, how can I get a good reading with my hydraulic lifter?
2. I torqued the new head gasket down already to proper specs. This is a graphite Mahle 5746. Once they've been compressed, can they be re used, or should I buy a new one?
3. The roller rockers that are on my engine came with it, and do not have the ratio stamped on it. How do I confirm the ratio?

 

Today was a rainy Saturday, so I got to lock myself in the shop all day and get a lot of work done! I blasted and painted parts all day, in preparation of getting my frame back:

First up was the biggest one, that heavy differential! I went to work with a wire wheel on my grinder and brake cleaner and was able to strip it down nicely. Removed all the bolts and put them in "Evaporust" for my first experiment with it, and removed the strut rod bracket to put in the blast cabinet and paint.



I went with satin black, because I wanted the contrast with the silver half shafts and I like that it hides everything in the future!



Next was to finish blasting all the pulleys and brackets for the engine, and get them painted in preparation for assembly. Confirmed they are all the original GM brackets too!








I also got the shock bolts off the trailing arms. Blasted and painted: came out nice!



And the rest of the brackets for the diff cleaned up




While messing with my engine, I checked the aftermarket oil pan I bought again: fits perfect!!!! I had it on backwards last time LOL!!! So I went ahead and painted it and my new water pump. I used the Duplicolor Ceramic Engine Enamel, and I liked it a lot better than the POR 15 Engine Enamel I used on the block.

 

Parts look good!

 

Thanks! I'm ready to get my frame back and start putting this thing back together!

 

I bought some EvapoRust and experimented with it last night: put all the hardware from the Diff in some cups to soak over night. I was pretty impressed with the results :

Here's are factory LT-1 Bearing caps for the half shaft U joints - what color are these supposed to be? Raw metal or painted silver?



U joint straps for DS came out nice

 

You can do this with a hydraulic lifter and with the heads on. No need to take them off.
I would use some very lightweight "checking springs" on two of the valves.
Rig up a dial indicator on the retainer.
A degree wheel helps if you have one or it's OK to just approximate.
Rotate the engine slowly near TDC. Not the compression stroke but 360 degrees later on the overlap stroke.
Tap the valve down with your finger and note how much movement it has.
You want at least .100" everywhere to play safe.
The tightest point is not at TDC, it is somewhere around 20 or 30 degrees before or after.
It doesn't matter "where" the tightest spot is.
Just as long as it stays above .100" in that whole area.
It will be larger at TDC, smallest at ~20 degrees, and then start getting larger again.
With that lift cam you are probably fine, but, it is not hard to check.
I guess the exhaust will be tight before TDC and the intake tight after, or maybe I have it reversed, it's late.

Note piston position in the center.