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New crate engine is now a steam engine....bad problem...

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Old Mar 7, 2006 | 02:42 PM
  #281  
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Looks like you need a COMPLETE set of pre-assembled parts and a dyno sheet for the new "parts".
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Old Mar 7, 2006 | 02:44 PM
  #282  
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you may find an Agricultural/construction equipment place like a Caterpillar dealer that can do this for you....or recommend a professional engineer PE who has a strong mechanical background
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Old Mar 7, 2006 | 02:46 PM
  #283  
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Originally Posted by David Ey
I bet no builder would dyno an engine before it was broken in.
Did they say your motor was dyno'ed?
My engine builder tells all his customers that the engine will be broken in by the time it gets up to operating temperature, and to go ahead and stomp on it. He never has any problems, I know because he's also my brother.
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Old Mar 7, 2006 | 03:05 PM
  #284  
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Mississippii Good Luck with the outcome

I spend alot time reading this whole thing and now I'm late

Again Good Luck, don't buckle under I think that you are right and did nothing to cause this damage

No Blueprint Engines for me

EBZ0602
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Old Mar 7, 2006 | 03:10 PM
  #285  
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Originally Posted by Batsy74



Pre-Lubrication will ensure long life

(May 11, 2005)
Blueprint engines arrive ready to install. Because our engines have been dyno tested, the assembly lube has been "washed" from the bearing surfaces. We drain the oil for shipping, so when your Blueprint engine arrives, the bearing surfaces are dry.
I can't believe the bearings were dry. If the engine was dyno'd, why did it need to be primed? Seems like just an ultra safe precautionary step to me unless these engines are setting on a shelf for a long time. You don't usually re-prime and engine after an oil change.

Did you happen to notice if it had evidence of residual oil in the oil pan/valve covers/anywhere as proof of dyno time?
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Old Mar 7, 2006 | 03:27 PM
  #286  
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I agree with what everyone said a few pages ago, have a mechanic diagnose the engine and give you a written report. Also, unless you were made aware of the warranty information before the purchase the contract might not hold up in court, you need to ask a lawyer if it comes down to that.
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Old Mar 7, 2006 | 03:41 PM
  #287  
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I have the warranty papers still on my desk. Haven't signed or sent anything to them.

Now for the good news. I have found a very talented and "fair" company in the area willing to help me at very reasonable rates. Local Automotive Machine shop, that does do performance engine work. Had a long discussion with the owner just a few minutes ago and he said without a doubt he could tell me what is wrong and how the water entered, but a never ending argument could occur over detonation or equip. failure even with his assistance. He said whatever I find it will be definetely noticeable and is thinkin it's a cracked block/cyclinder. Was also think the ring land broken off may have very well caused the problem, but won't know until he get's his hands on it.

Anyway, going to pull the motor, put it on the stand, and try and get the motor to turn over so I can look at the cyclinder first. Also got to get it cleaned up. Any recommendations on getting all the sludge out. Someone mentioned kerosen to me.
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Old Mar 7, 2006 | 03:48 PM
  #288  
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DO NOT let Horace Slay be the 3rd party. Guy there once told me they had a 77 that came from the factory with a 327. He said the VIN proves it.

Talk to Jeff Burrows at Jackson Cylinder Head Service, 601-353-1014. He won't inspect it in the car. You'll have to pull it but you have to anyway to send it back.
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Old Mar 7, 2006 | 04:11 PM
  #289  
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Originally Posted by MsVetteMan
... Any recommendations on getting all the sludge out. Someone mentioned kerosen to me.

heres the info this article actually gives the cleaning protocol

http://www.practicingoilanalysis.co...oup=OilAnalysis

Procedure for Cleaning Glycol from Engines
A flushing procedure proposed by one major oil company to remove glycol from engine internal surfaces involves the use of Butoxy-Ethanol (trade name Butyl Cellosolve, Union Carbide). The flushing procedure for conditions of less than five percent glycol contamination is summarized below:

1. Drain oil from compartment and all lines and components.

2. Install new filter elements.

3. Mix an ISO VG 32 R&O mineral oil 50/50 with Butyl Cellosolve.

4. Use the mixture to turbulently flush (using an external pump installed at the turbocharger supply line or other suitable pumping method) internal surfaces by ample flow and volume for one hour at a temperature not less than 70°F (21°C).

5. Drain the system completely, mop out crankcase and replace filters.

6. Repeat steps 2 through 5, using a 60 percent R&O 32, 40 percent kerosene mixture.

7. Remove and inspect all main bearings, journals and other engine surfaces.

8. Remove the external pump and recharge with the correct lubricant. Replace the filter.

9. Monitor the engine carefully until all conditions stabilize.
\


....so why not use a couple cans of brake cleaner over a big black concrete mixing tub from Home depot....
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Old Mar 7, 2006 | 04:19 PM
  #290  
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Wow this thread is huge. Notify your credit card immediately that you are having problems. There is a time limit as to how long you can wait after a purchase to notify them. This puts the charge in dispute and will extend the timeline that you have to resolve the issue. You still have to pay the credit card for disputed items tho or they will charge you interest on it.
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Old Mar 7, 2006 | 04:32 PM
  #291  
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You know, if you start charging $.50 admission to this thread you just might make enough to buy a new GMPP 383 without having to worry about whose fault this mess was.
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Old Mar 7, 2006 | 04:37 PM
  #292  
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Originally Posted by jdmick
You know, if you start charging $.50 admission to this thread you just might make enough to buy a new GMPP 383 without having to worry about whose fault this mess was.
What's great about a GM engine is if it does somehow break, you just take it to your local GM dealer and go "It broke, fix plz, your fault not mine."
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Old Mar 7, 2006 | 06:47 PM
  #293  
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Originally Posted by Kalway
What's great about a GM engine is if it does somehow break, you just take it to your local GM dealer and go "It broke, fix plz, your fault not mine."
dealers are worse to deal with. Some of them are incompetent.
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Old Mar 7, 2006 | 06:55 PM
  #294  
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Ok, I'm in for the first .50, just let me know where to send it to! Good luck, it does sound like there is a chance they could be reasonable with you, giving you the ok in writing to get a 3rd party inspection. What's best is you now have the name of the warranty manager, so go straight to the top if you have to.
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Old Mar 7, 2006 | 08:11 PM
  #295  
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Latest update....Got the motor to turn and and dropped the piston down enought to look at inside of cylinder. CRACKED. Two cracks on each side that split and go farther down where I can't see and get worse from the top going towards the bottom before being hidded by the piston. I at least got most of the sludge cleaned up. (Mineral Spirits work great!!)

Trying to clean it up as much as possible for the 3rd party inspection. May be this weekend before I can pull it however. I'll keep you guys informed, and thanks for the support and encouragement throughout this ordeal, which isn't nearly over.
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Old Mar 7, 2006 | 08:13 PM
  #296  
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And....I also had a buddy of mine suggest to check closely in the oil pan for foreign obects such as a small nut or something that could have dropped in throught the carb....? Said it very commom and the nut gets sucked down the intake and into the combustion chamber where it cause destruction to the piston.

I don't believe in this case that's what happened, but??? I surely check.
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Old Mar 7, 2006 | 08:15 PM
  #297  
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Man, I don't see there is anything you could have done to crack that block. They need to send you another motor and pay freight both ways.
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Old Mar 7, 2006 | 08:16 PM
  #298  
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Originally Posted by MsVetteMan
And....I also had a buddy of mine suggest to check closely in the oil pan for foreign obects such as a small nut or something that could have dropped in throught the carb....? Said it very commom and the nut gets sucked down the intake and into the combustion chamber where it cause destruction to the piston.

I don't believe in this case that's what happened, but??? I surely check.

wish i had thought of that.... (hence about 6 pages back)
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Old Mar 7, 2006 | 08:17 PM
  #299  
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you can see on the piston and head when this happens and I can't see how it could get into the pan.
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Old Mar 7, 2006 | 08:21 PM
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From: Where are the Smoky Mountain Cruisers? Not Correctly Restored Stingray
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Originally Posted by Todbo
CAN'T WAIT TO SEE HOW THIS ENDS

I would think they would want to send a replacement to you FOC ASAP, to retain future business from others, as many of us also are members of other forums too. I would think bad publicity could spread like wildfire with today’s communication channels.

Keep your head up.
I would probably supply legal a copy of the 3rd party inspection when it's completed and would not change anything within the tread.
I would not through in the towel, think of the next guy that gets a Blueprint Engine.

Good luck.
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