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Old Dec 9, 2012 | 11:37 AM
  #361  
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what cam and heads have you zero'd in on?

or

target hp?
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Old Dec 9, 2012 | 11:45 AM
  #362  
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Originally Posted by SuperBuickGuy
what cam and heads have you zero'd in on?

or

target hp?
I havn't got that far, I have spent all my time just trying to figure out this honing, polishing the crank, cleaning, the block etc.
But this weekend I have started thinking about the heads a little more.

What you think 400HP sound good for a first car? Oh! BTW I haven't forgotten about your headers and exhaust system. If you still have it when I get to that point I will prob take it.
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Old Dec 9, 2012 | 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by scottyp99
That is some great info, there!

Ummmm.......did anybody else get a little.......excited......when the English lady in the video started talking about how to stroke the tool?


Scott
great, now I gotta go watch the video....I love a woman with an English accent...
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Old Dec 9, 2012 | 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by FatCat
HAHAHA!

I did notice the hone grit according to the numbers is 300-400 getting ready to go get one and start today> Hope I can find the right grit.
I didn't look...what kind of rings come with your engine kit? That will determine what grit your honer should be...
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Old Dec 9, 2012 | 12:56 PM
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Molly rings
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Old Dec 9, 2012 | 01:04 PM
  #366  
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Originally Posted by birdsmith
I didn't look...what kind of rings come with your engine kit? That will determine what grit your honer should be...
I just went and looked for a 320 grit honer! Not available in the city of Tulsa, Ok.
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Old Dec 9, 2012 | 01:57 PM
  #367  
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Originally Posted by FatCat
I havn't got that far, I have spent all my time just trying to figure out this honing, polishing the crank, cleaning, the block etc.
But this weekend I have started thinking about the heads a little more.

What you think 400HP sound good for a first car? Oh! BTW I haven't forgotten about your headers and exhaust system. If you still have it when I get to that point I will prob take it.
cool, they're still sitting

the reason I ask.... pistons make a huge difference in how a motor performs - especially when dealing with quench stuff.

cam - pretty obvious on this one too, but one other thing to think about.... with enough overlap, you can run higher static compression; which can develop more power.

400 hp is a good number, but it's not the end of the story - you can develop 400 hp at 8000 rpm, and it'd be a dog in a truck, yet awesome in a race car - so how are you coming with reading Vizard's book?

A David Freiburger (Hot Rod editor) quote is "there's no such thing as too much cam, just not enough motor".... honestly, identify your top 2 or 3 heads then find them - I've done the build the short block and worry about the heads later; and was always disappointed in the result...

Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; Dec 9, 2012 at 01:59 PM.
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Old Dec 9, 2012 | 02:19 PM
  #368  
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Well Fatcat is using the tried and true flat top Hypertec pistons that work with almost any street head.
You're putting the cart before the horse. Heads first then a cam to match the power curve the engine is capable of
His compression will be the direct result of the heads chamber size. As the compression rises the more aggressive he can go on the cam! The heads are the biggest expense and I'm sure he's looking for the best bang for the buck. Maybe even a used set of heads that may not have the ideal chamber for your cam if you already purchased it. Then you have a problem
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Old Dec 9, 2012 | 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by FatCat
I just went and looked for a 320 grit honer! Not available in the city of Tulsa, Ok.
Try the local auto parts store, they rent them or the machines shop may rent it to you.
If that doesn't work, I know summit is pretty fast. I've received parts in two day with regular shipping just a thought.....
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Old Dec 9, 2012 | 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by SuperBuickGuy
cool, they're still sitting

the reason I ask.... pistons make a huge difference in how a motor performs - especially when dealing with quench stuff.

cam - pretty obvious on this one too, but one other thing to think about.... with enough overlap, you can run higher static compression; which can develop more power.

400 hp is a good number, but it's not the end of the story - you can develop 400 hp at 8000 rpm, and it'd be a dog in a truck, yet awesome in a race car - so how are you coming with reading Vizard's book?

A David Freiburger (Hot Rod editor) quote is "there's no such thing as too much cam, just not enough motor".... honestly, identify your top 2 or 3 heads then find them - I've done the build the short block and worry about the heads later; and was always disappointed in the result...
I was planning on originally using the Heads that came off and just having them gone though but! With this much work I am thinking I need to do something different. Maybe the Vortec heads but I am hoping you guys can steer me in the right direction on what I need, I also have the cam Scottyp99 sent me and if I need to do something different I will send it back and get a different one. I really need guidance here. Remember just last night I didn't know what "compression height" was.
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Old Dec 9, 2012 | 03:05 PM
  #371  
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well if u go to vortec, remember that means intake manifold change and I think valve cover bolts different too
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Old Dec 9, 2012 | 03:07 PM
  #372  
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Originally Posted by Doug1
well if u go to vortec, remember that means intake manifold change anId I think valve cover bolts different too
Yeah, I would rather not go there right now. The heads that came off are 624's

Last edited by FatCat; Dec 9, 2012 at 03:10 PM.
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Old Dec 9, 2012 | 03:14 PM
  #373  
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Originally Posted by Doug1
well if u go to vortec, remember that means intake manifold change and I think valve cover bolts different too
it actually depends on whether or not you use GM Vortec heads, or a knockoff design like Patriot.

What's sad is I have a set of Vortecs sitting on a shelf in my shop.... ever considered moving to Seattle?
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Old Dec 9, 2012 | 03:17 PM
  #374  
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Originally Posted by SuperBuickGuy
it actually depends on whether or not you use GM Vortec heads, or a knockoff design like Patriot.

What's sad is I have a set of Vortecs sitting on a shelf in my shop.... ever considered moving to Seattle?
No but how much you want for them? Shipping may not be bad and we could send the headers at the same time.
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Old Dec 9, 2012 | 04:39 PM
  #375  
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The smog heads leave a lot of HP on the table and it will cost about $400+to have them rebuilt. For another few hundred you could have a nice pair of aluminum heads....

Tell us about the cam scottp99 sent ya??? Lift, duration, roller,ect....
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Old Dec 9, 2012 | 07:48 PM
  #376  
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Originally Posted by hugie82
The smog heads leave a lot of HP on the table and it will cost about $400+to have them rebuilt. For another few hundred you could have a nice pair of aluminum heads....

Tell us about the cam scottp99 sent ya??? Lift, duration, roller,ect....
It's basically this cam:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...make/chevrolet

I sent it when we all thought it was just going to be a cam upgrade on a stock L48. Aftermarket heads, you'll probably want to go with something a little bigger.


Scott
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 12:37 AM
  #377  
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Originally Posted by FatCat
No but how much you want for them? Shipping may not be bad and we could send the headers at the same time.
These are stone stock Vortec heads - they need machining for the higher lift cam, and may or may not need a valve job...

if you lived in Seattle, you could a) find the valves (not quite sure where I stored them), and b) make sure they're worth using... I bought them for cheap off Craigslist to do tests for a medical company developing an inhaler. And really, I'd hate to send them half way across the country and they turn out to need work....

since you're working on your intake... this was what I built today
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 08:58 AM
  #378  
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Originally Posted by scottyp99
It's basically this cam:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...make/chevrolet

I sent it when we all thought it was just going to be a cam upgrade on a stock L48. Aftermarket heads, you'll probably want to go with something a little bigger.


Scott
That's a nice street cam. A lot of FUN LOW END TORQUE in that bump stick! Add a nice set of 1:6 roller rockers and you have a great runner with nice smokey burnouts
This cam will also allow the use of Vortec heads without having to spend money modifying them for a high lift cam.

Last edited by hugie82; Dec 10, 2012 at 09:06 AM.
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 09:11 AM
  #379  
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Originally Posted by SuperBuickGuy
These are stone stock Vortec heads - they need machining for the higher lift cam, and may or may not need a valve job...

if you lived in Seattle, you could a) find the valves (not quite sure where I stored them), and b) make sure they're worth using... I bought them for cheap off Craigslist to do tests for a medical company developing an inhaler. And really, I'd hate to send them half way across the country and they turn out to need work....

since you're working on your intake... this was what I built today
That looks like a good spot to pick up fresh air but how are you gonna deflect water so the filter doesn't get soaked?
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 09:11 AM
  #380  
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Originally Posted by hugie82
The smog heads leave a lot of HP on the table and it will cost about $400+to have them rebuilt. For another few hundred you could have a nice pair of aluminum heads....

Tell us about the cam scottp99 sent ya??? Lift, duration, roller,ect....
I have a problem I think with my 882 heads on my L-82 and was thinking about having them rebuilt as well only for originality purposes since everything internal on the motor is OEM (66,000 miles). My dyno guy tells me that to correctly rebuild the 882 heads, I am looking at around $1,000 for new stainless steel valves, seals, valve springs, valve guides, 3 angle valve job etc. Was just wondering what $400 dollars would get you. Are talking $400 to rebuild the heads yourself without machine work? Just wondering. Thanx.
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