My first rebuild
You can save money on the front end by using Vortec heads, but aluminum heads allow you to run about one more point compression (say, 10.0:1 vs. 9.0:1) over iron heads. That, and a set is about 50 lbs. less weight off the front end of the car. That's like, 7 horsepower plus whatever horsepower you gain just by running an extra point of compression. They also allow you to run lower-octane gas for an equivalent compression ratio because they bleed off more heat.
If your target is a 400 HP 350 on pump gas, you can likely get there with a decent set of aluminum heads, 10.5:1 compression, 91 octane gas at your altitude with the 'right' cam. If 400 is the number you're looking for then you should be able to get there with that as a basic formula.
To calculate compression, you will need to know what the deck height of your pistons will be, and to know for sure what that is you will have to 'mock up' one piston+rod combination and put it at four corners of your block to see how far 'down in the hole' your piston tops are. While quench height is an important number, it's impossible to know EXACTLY what yours will be until you put YOUR parts in YOUR block.
Once you've done that, you can figure out what combination of parts will get you to the compression number you're looking for...
Last edited by birdsmith; Dec 10, 2012 at 02:04 PM.

On another note, I have a very close friend who bought a rebuilt transmission a couple years ago for a project he never really even started. Anyway, he said it was and overdrive tranny and I could have it, just come pick it up. It was for a 87 Camaro. Any thoughts on this or how I can figure out what it really is? He said he thought is was a 700R4 but wasn't positive. What say you guys?
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On another note, I have a very close friend who bought a rebuilt transmission a couple years ago for a project he never really even started. Anyway, he said it was and overdrive tranny and I could have it, just come pick it up. It was for a 87 Camaro. Any thoughts on this or how I can figure out what it really is? He said he thought is was a 700R4 but wasn't positive. What say you guys?
Scott
figure it does - so shop CL for a decent B&M quarter stick shifter, if you get it cheap enough, you can buy the right detent part to convert it to 4 speed.
you may need a shorter driveshaft, and potentially a U-joint from a turbo 350 (if you car doesn't already have one).
I've cheated on that swap by using a turbo 400 driveshaft with a turbo 350 yoke (400 is the sameish length as a 700)...
you'll also need the wiring kit for the lockup controller.... cheap, cheap - most are just a switch that you can turn on so that it can lock up at 35 mph....
and let me be the first to warn you..
in caps
THE CABLE THAT GOES TO THE CARBURETOR IS NECESSARY AND MUST BE PROPERLY ADJUSTED - so do buy the right connector for connecting the cable to whatever carb you use.... it's not something you can "just wing". if you do, you'll burn up the transmission because the cable tells the transmission where, when and how to shift
Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; Dec 13, 2012 at 09:35 AM.
Your shifter is the same as my 82 with the 700r4. I made a small cut in the shifter detent to get low 1 but low 2 through Park is all the same and that's how the 82 came from the factory. There was a guy on here I think his name was VetteMD or MDVette he has some real good pics of his build and his shifter modification .

If the trans was stored outside? You better think twice but if its for free its still worth something. For some reason every trans I've used that was stored outside with a trap or cover always seemed to blow up on the first day

If the trans was stored outside? You better think twice but if its for free its still worth something. For some reason every trans I've used that was stored outside with a trap or cover always seemed to blow up on the first day














