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Well crap! I will stress about that until I finish now. Hahaha
I used actual guide coat not paint why would they make guide coat not compatible with your paint?
to incentivize you to sand it all off.... you do know that the point of a guide coat is to sand it off, thus increasing the odds that your car won't be a parade car (so friendly, it waves at you).
to incentivize you to sand it all off.... you do know that the point of a guide coat is to sand it off, thus increasing the odds that your car won't be a parade car (so friendly, it waves at you).
Yeah I know that and the plan is to get it all off for sure. I just hate the thought of I miss 1 very small drop it could ruin the all the work. :-)
Cool deal FC, I ordered one of those "S" fuel lines, I think mine isn't allowing full flow and isn't keeping my fuel bowls full (say that 10 times real fast )...
Well crap! I will stress about that until I finish now. Hahaha
I used actual guide coat not paint why would they make guide coat not compatible with your paint?
My bad! I thought you were using spray paint as a guide coat. As long as the stuff your using is compatible with the paint system your using....
My bad! I thought you were using spray paint as a guide coat. As long as the stuff your using is compatible with the paint system your using....
Just a question: Could you use rattle can primer (black), over the grey primer as a guide coat then after blocking spray a sealer over it and if you didn't get all the guide coat off would it be ok with sealer, if all that makes sense
Just a question: Could you use rattle can primer (black), over the grey primer as a guide coat then after blocking spray a sealer over it and if you didn't get all the guide coat off would it be ok with sealer, if all that makes sense
I think (based on my conversation with paint store) as long as you use a primer that is compatible woith your primer, there would be no need for the sealer.
I think (based on my conversation with paint store) as long as you use a primer that is compatible woith your primer, there would be no need for the sealer.
I've heard concerns of areas repaired with bondo bleeding through even if primer has been applied over bondoed area, if you don't use a sealer.
Ok 12 hours solid today! Block sanded, filled small inperfections and scratches and spot primed the car. Tomorrow, final spot sand and shoot this baby!
Ok 12 hours solid today! Block sanded, filled small inperfections and scratches and spot primed the car. Tomorrow, final spot sand and shoot this baby!
I think (based on my conversation with paint store) as long as you use a primer that is compatible woith your primer, there would be no need for the sealer.
You may want to double check. I am pretty sure a sealer is warranted to seal up not just the repairs but the threads in the original fiberglas as well.
Mine showed every fiber in the fiberglas when I bought it because a sealer was not used. The good news was it was easier to strip down to the glass.
Does the body shop know you are painting a corvette?
You have come way too far to cut corners at this point.
As long as your filler is well-buried in primer, you don't need to do a separate sealer coat.... of course, the only way you'll know if the filler is well buried is if you don't have dry spots in the paint...
You may want to double check. I am pretty sure a sealer is warranted to seal up not just the repairs but the threads in the original fiberglas as well.
Mine showed every fiber in the fiberglas when I bought it because a sealer was not used. The good news was it was easier to strip down to the glass.
Does the body shop know you are painting a corvette?
You have come way too far to cut corners at this point.
Just a thought
Bill
Hey Bill, they do know I am painting a corvette, they said I didn't need a sealer and what I have already painted seemed to turn out really good so I hope to be good at this point. I will post pix this evening!