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Hey I could get away with that baking part! You are talking about after they are painted right? What temp?
of course AFTER they're painted, you moron!
and your gonna do this transmission swap!? i can't wait to see how that turns out....haha, glad your a good sport
of course AFTER they're painted, you moron!
and your gonna do this transmission swap!? i can't wait to see how that turns out....haha, glad your a good sport
Hahaha! I got this man!!!! I was told there was no dumb question!?!? You just fueled my fire a little more calling me names..
hey fatcat whats taking so long? i took my motor out after you did and i started mine up the Tuesday night Just kidding man, you're doing all the stuff i'd like to be doing but can't quite afford it and don't have the patience for it . My motor was in really good shape inside so i didn't need to do much internally.
The key to getting it done right is just that, patience, i took a whole night away from the machine before i started it up just in case i forgot something i'd have time to hopefully remember it. Started it up, little tweaking on the distributor, runs like a million bucks .
The thing i really love about working on these older cars is that if you only have had a 7/16, 1/2, 9/16, and 5/8" wrench, you can get a lot done. No metric bs. Of course there's other tools one needs but you get the idea.
You got this eh? ok.......with the guys on here guiding, I don't have any doubts
Well I am glad you believe because the moron comment kind of caught me off guard. It's not that I am a moron, I just haven't done this type of work before and baking parts in the oven sounded a little wierd.
A really stupid thing would be to not ask questions post pictures and try to figure it out without help.
.
The thing i really love about working on these older cars is that if you only have had a 7/16, 1/2, 9/16, and 5/8" wrench, you can get a lot done. No metric bs. Of course there's other tools one needs but you get the idea.
my father in law got me a set of Snap On sae 3/8" drive sockets about 5 years ago for Christmas. When I opened them, I remember thinking "why didn't he get me metric, especially since Snap On is so expensive." The cars I have owned have usually been newer and/or foreign cars. I've used those sockets more in the last few months then all previous years combined.
hey fatcat whats taking so long? i took my motor out after you did and i started mine up the Tuesday night Just kidding man, you're doing all the stuff i'd like to be doing but can't quite afford it and don't have the patience for it . My motor was in really good shape inside so i didn't need to do much internally.
The key to getting it done right is just that, patience, i took a whole night away from the machine before i started it up just in case i forgot something i'd have time to hopefully remember it. Started it up, little tweaking on the distributor, runs like a million bucks .
The thing i really love about working on these older cars is that if you only have had a 7/16, 1/2, 9/16, and 5/8" wrench, you can get a lot done. No metric bs. Of course there's other tools one needs but you get the idea.
HA! I just got the rebuild kit today and the pistons will be here Monday!
I am really glad you are up and running like a million bucks
If I get there before Feb, I will be a happy camper.
Dude! Are you just trying to get me all pumped up or what?
No *****, moron! Oh I see you know I got parts rolling in and are just trying to challenge me to knock this out so we can start a new thread!
Dude! Are you just trying to get me all pumped up or what?
No *****, moron! Oh I see you know I got parts rolling in and are just trying to challenge me to knock this out so we can start a new thread!
Now I'm going to have to go find my automatic shifter.... I can't remember if it has detents...
figure it does - so shop CL for a decent B&M quarter stick shifter, if you get it cheap enough, you can buy the right detent part to convert it to 4 speed.
you may need a shorter driveshaft, and potentially a U-joint from a turbo 350 (if you car doesn't already have one).
I've cheated on that swap by using a turbo 400 driveshaft with a turbo 350 yoke (400 is the sameish length as a 700)...
you'll also need the wiring kit for the lockup controller.... cheap, cheap - most are just a switch that you can turn on so that it can lock up at 35 mph....
and let me be the first to warn you..
in caps
THE CABLE THAT GOES TO THE CARBURETOR IS NECESSARY AND MUST BE PROPERLY ADJUSTED - so do buy the right connector for connecting the cable to whatever carb you use.... it's not something you can "just wing". if you do, you'll burn up the transmission because the cable tells the transmission where, when and how to shift
Oh crap! That all just went way over my head....We will have to talk through this after the engine is built!
Oh crap! That all just went way over my head....We will have to talk through this after the engine is built!
Just remember this bit - there is a cable that goes from the transmission to the carburetor.... putting it in after the motor is installed can be done, but the neighborhood will be blue when you're done getting the cable in, then threaded up to where it belongs on the motor...
Recommendations on cleaning the area here where the head sits and maybe a picture of what it should look like?
Thanks!
What I do is carefully scrape all the non-metallic stuff off of the decks with a well-sharpened 1 1/2" putty knife, then sand the decks with some 80 grit paper to give the gasket a bit of 'tooth' to help with sealing. That's about it...make sure you keep the walls oiled to prevent rusting...
Just remember this bit - there is a cable that goes from the transmission to the carburetor.... putting it in after the motor is installed can be done, but the neighborhood will be blue when you're done getting the cable in, then threaded up to where it belongs on the motor...
Ok, so I need to make plans before I put the motor back in?
What I do is carefully scrape all the non-metallic stuff off of the decks with a well-sharpened 1 1/2" putty knife, then sand the decks with some 80 grit paper to give the gasket a bit of 'tooth' to help with sealing. That's about it...make sure you keep the walls oiled to prevent rusting...
Well done so far, BTW.
Ok thanks! The cylinders are well oiled and I hope to have the short block built late next week or shortly after Christmas.