My first rebuild
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 4,688
Likes: 41
From: Palm Harbor, Florida
block looks good btw, I saw a video that showed this tool being used. Actually looked it up on HF's website, well, tried to look it up. they don't have. your best bet will probably be to maybe rent the tool from your machine shop guy, if he's willing. give him more than enough of what it would cost to replace it, then he gives most back when returned. probably a better chance if you try and get it at the end of the day and promise to have back in morning....
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 4,688
Likes: 41
From: Palm Harbor, Florida
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,428
Likes: 5
From: Japan
Before you change those bearings, do you know that they need replaced? Probably not a bad idea at any rate, but just wondering. Often if the cleaning process doesn't destroy them they're fine...
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,548
Likes: 379
From: Woodinville WA
If your bearings are fine, leave em.
Putting them in is easy - it really is, but do check your work and understand you may need them line honed once they're in place.
I hate HF's website, half the stuff they have in the store isn't online, and half the stuff online isn't in the store... that said, I've seen bearing dies in HF up here.
Now here's the ringer... I don't hone, nor do I pound bearings in (except in Buick 455s, but that's because no one can seem to get them in right and they're expensive to replace). It costs very little to have it done by a machine shop, who has the 300.00 (guess) Snap on tool
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
I noticed the one on the back of the engine has a couple gouges in it so that is what made me think I should. I am not sure how it got that way since I really haven't worked in that area.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
true... and I learned something recently about those bearings. GM aligned the bores with the bearings in place. Honestly, I've thrown more cams in motors than I could possibly count, and never had a problem - but recently two people, one - the alignment was off and the cam wouldn't go in, the other the cam plug (opposite end of the motor) was too deep and destroyed the cam, lifters and much of the motor.
If your bearings are fine, leave em.
Putting them in is easy - it really is, but do check your work and understand you may need them line honed once they're in place.
I hate HF's website, half the stuff they have in the store isn't online, and half the stuff online isn't in the store... that said, I've seen bearing dies in HF up here.
Now here's the ringer... I don't hone, nor do I pound bearings in (except in Buick 455s, but that's because no one can seem to get them in right and they're expensive to replace). It costs very little to have it done by a machine shop, who has the 300.00 (guess) Snap on tool
If your bearings are fine, leave em.
Putting them in is easy - it really is, but do check your work and understand you may need them line honed once they're in place.
I hate HF's website, half the stuff they have in the store isn't online, and half the stuff online isn't in the store... that said, I've seen bearing dies in HF up here.
Now here's the ringer... I don't hone, nor do I pound bearings in (except in Buick 455s, but that's because no one can seem to get them in right and they're expensive to replace). It costs very little to have it done by a machine shop, who has the 300.00 (guess) Snap on tool
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Sorry for the slow response, I took momma out on a date to a Christmas party and a movie! She needed some time since all my time has been consumed with study, working and typing questions on here! Hahaha
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,548
Likes: 379
From: Woodinville WA
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,948
Likes: 72
From: Oxford MA-----You just lost the game!!!!
32 bucks from Summit:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aa...make/chevrolet
I'm sure your machinist will want more than that to replace them.
Cam bearings do not usually need to be replaced as often as main and rod bearings. Remember, the cam only spins at half the crankshaft rpm, and that's all it does is spin, there are no real reciprocating forces on them like there are on main and rod bearings, so they don't wear out nearly as fast. That being said, if you don't like the looks of one of the bearings, go ahead and replace them.
If you decide to replace the cam bearings yourself, let us know before you try it, it's not that hard, but there are a couple of things that are critical, like the orientation of the hole in the bearing, and the order that the bearings go in.
Scott
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aa...make/chevrolet
I'm sure your machinist will want more than that to replace them.
Cam bearings do not usually need to be replaced as often as main and rod bearings. Remember, the cam only spins at half the crankshaft rpm, and that's all it does is spin, there are no real reciprocating forces on them like there are on main and rod bearings, so they don't wear out nearly as fast. That being said, if you don't like the looks of one of the bearings, go ahead and replace them.
If you decide to replace the cam bearings yourself, let us know before you try it, it's not that hard, but there are a couple of things that are critical, like the orientation of the hole in the bearing, and the order that the bearings go in.
Scott
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
OK! Here are few questions with pix! 
One of the guys at the shop said he uses Scotchbrite pads on mating surfaces and showed me what he does on a car we had in the shop.
What say you? Do these surfaces look good enough?
Or should I polish with 180 grit Scotchbite from here?
There are several imperfections like this in the head mating surfaces. Are they a problem? Sorry this one is a little blurry.
Here is an example of what I am looking at on the cam bearings.
One of the guys at the shop said he uses Scotchbrite pads on mating surfaces and showed me what he does on a car we had in the shop.
What say you? Do these surfaces look good enough?
Or should I polish with 180 grit Scotchbite from here?
There are several imperfections like this in the head mating surfaces. Are they a problem? Sorry this one is a little blurry.
Here is an example of what I am looking at on the cam bearings.
Last edited by FatCat; Dec 16, 2012 at 12:38 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,428
Likes: 5
From: Japan
OK! Here are few questions with pix!
One of the guys at the shop said he uses Scotchbrite pads on mating surfaces and showed me what he does on a car we had in the shop.
What say you? Do these surfaces look good enough?
Or shoud I polish with 180 grit Scotchbite from here?
There are several imperfections like this in the head mating surfaces. Are the a problem?
Here is an example of what I am looking at on the cam bearings.
One of the guys at the shop said he uses Scotchbrite pads on mating surfaces and showed me what he does on a car we had in the shop.
What say you? Do these surfaces look good enough?
Or shoud I polish with 180 grit Scotchbite from here?
There are several imperfections like this in the head mating surfaces. Are the a problem?
Here is an example of what I am looking at on the cam bearings.
As for that nick on the edge of your cylinder, it's not gonna kill the project, but that bottom cam bearing photo is a little worrisome. I think I'd replace at least that one. If you leave it in it will likely cause some loss of oil pressure...
Last edited by birdsmith; Dec 16, 2012 at 12:51 PM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Fatcat, when you have a block 'decked' the machining leaves a very distinct pattern of cutter marks across the deck faces which helps seal the water passages. That's why I suggest 'scuffing' the deck faces with 80 grit sandpaper...in the absence of having that cutter pattern this will give the gasket something to 'bite' which will aid in sealing water. As I mentioned before I have even gone so far as to apply small beads of grey Permatex hi-temp RTV silicone sealer around both sides of the coolant passages to make sure they don't start leaking. BTW, it worked...
As for that nick, it's not gonna kill the project...
As for that nick, it's not gonna kill the project...
Cam bearings, I have new ones here so "while I am at it" I think I will.
Last edited by FatCat; Dec 16, 2012 at 12:57 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,428
Likes: 5
From: Japan
The cam is the first thing that goes in during engine assembly and therefore would require complete disassembly to correct if a problem occurrs...better safe than sorry here. My latest HF mailer did include a bearing driver set for something like 6 bucks or thereabouts. I know unlike Fords Chevy cam bearings are all the same size...might be able to change them with that set.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 4,688
Likes: 41
From: Palm Harbor, Florida
32 bucks from Summit:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aa...make/chevrolet
I'm sure your machinist will want more than that to replace them.
Cam bearings do not usually need to be replaced as often as main and rod bearings. Remember, the cam only spins at half the crankshaft rpm, and that's all it does is spin, there are no real reciprocating forces on them like there are on main and rod bearings, so they don't wear out nearly as fast. That being said, if you don't like the looks of one of the bearings, go ahead and replace them.
If you decide to replace the cam bearings yourself, let us know before you try it, it's not that hard, but there are a couple of things that are critical, like the orientation of the hole in the bearing, and the order that the bearings go in.
Scott
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aa...make/chevrolet
I'm sure your machinist will want more than that to replace them.
Cam bearings do not usually need to be replaced as often as main and rod bearings. Remember, the cam only spins at half the crankshaft rpm, and that's all it does is spin, there are no real reciprocating forces on them like there are on main and rod bearings, so they don't wear out nearly as fast. That being said, if you don't like the looks of one of the bearings, go ahead and replace them.
If you decide to replace the cam bearings yourself, let us know before you try it, it's not that hard, but there are a couple of things that are critical, like the orientation of the hole in the bearing, and the order that the bearings go in.
Scott
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,652
Likes: 49
From: Bridgewater nj
Everything good Fatcat even the cam bearings aren't bad ...plus they're very forgiving if they're nicked up
I'm concerned about that nick on #6 cylinder right on the fire ring
. Can you get a clearer pic of that?
I'm concerned about that nick on #6 cylinder right on the fire ring
. Can you get a clearer pic of that?