OK....did you run a tap through all the threads in the block? Water jackets THOROUGHLY cleaned with ALL the loose crap outta there? THEN re-wash the whole shebang with soap and water, blow it out with compressed air and oil all the machined surfaces? Have the rings been fitted, gaps filed, and individually packaged in clean plastic bags prior to installation on the pistons? You cannot just stick the rings on the pistons without first verifying that the gaps are within tolerance; this takes a little time, but you HAVE to do it before assembly...Understand that cleaning the block is the LAST thing to do to it before assembly, so installing new cam bearings will make it dirty again, if only slightly....

Once ALL that is done, install new freezeplugs. Steel ones are generally better because they won't pop out like brass ones can.

THEN the camshaft goes in, and you should run down and pick up a tube of good assembly lube beforehand, and slather down the lobes with it before installing it. This is the time when Vizard's book comes in really handy, because the sequencing of all these things is important. Cam, crank, pistons, oil pump, oil pan, timing chain, timing cover, balancer, heads, lifters, pushrods, rockers, intake, then valve adjustment and last, valve covers. And every one of these steps has nuances and techniques involved that, while NOT especially difficult, MUST be followed TO THE LETTER for a good result.

Sit down, take a breath, and make sure that everything is complete before moving to the next step...

 

I have washed, oiled and cleaned the block a couple of times. As for the tap I am also picking up the tap also tomorrow. The install the crank was a little tongue and cheek!
I also realize that rings have to be fitted (somewhat nervous about it) just will need a little guidance there on the filing. Also picking up the ring compressor tomorrow as well.
I am breathing just thought I would get you guys geared up for help.

 

what did we do before Youtube?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pf1rb...ature=youtu.be

 

It's very rare for the rings to need filing on a pre sized kit .030 and you block is a re-hone so if anything those rings should be loose. After squaring up the ring halfway down in the cylinder with the piston. You should see .025+-.005 with a feeler gauge fitting snug. Watch the YouTube vids and you'll see how to measure but if you need to file? Something is up. Show us a pic with your feeler gauge in the ring gap

 

Unless he bought file fit - still, it's a step in any engine rebuild to check the ring gap with today's quality control it shouldn't happen, but I've now had twice (three if you count the time I didn't check and had to rebuild the motor) where the rings were either for a larger bore, or where they were too tight.

 

Hey guys, ready to do the cam bearings. Watched some videos and happened to pick up the bearings have to be in the right order. Can anyone tell me how to tell the order? I also noticed where the bearing on the back of the engine goes, there are actually 3 oiling holes but no bearing with 3. There is one bearing with 2 holes in it but the bearings on the front of the block is the only one with 2 holes in it. What say you?

 

Ditto...There is no way I would just throw a motor together WITHOUT at least CHECKING the ring gaps, ESPECIALLY on a motor whose bore sizes are a bit questionable. At the very least you need to put each ring into the cylinder in which it will be used and measure the gap at the BOTTOM of its travel to make sure that the ends won't crash into each other. After that, use a ring expander and mount the rings onto their respective pistons paying careful attention to top ring, second ring, and compression ring orientation and gap location.

 

Maybe I'm mistaken but wouldn't the timing cover go on BEFORE the oil pan due to the way the pan "pulls up" into the bottom seal on timing chain cover?

 

I figured it out, #1 does start at the front of the block. All cam bearings successfully installed and correctly aligned!!!

 

so when is this beast gonna get fired up?!

 

we're trying to convince him to slow down and take his time.... sheesh lol

 

Hahaha! I don't feel like I am still a bull in a china closet!!!
Also got all the bolt holes tapped and cleaned tonight.

 

 

Blow the engine down with air. Double check your cam bearings, make sure the hole in the bearing lins up with the hole in the block. You can test fit your oil cam. Just tape up the lobes so you don't nick the new bearings. Grease up the cam and slip it in and give it a spin. It should turn smoothly with very little drag from the grease.
Then move on to the crank

 

Oooops...you got me there.Oil pan LAST...

 

Hugie...what's an "oil cam"?

 

it goes right next to the muffler bearings (ceramic ones).... catch up here

 

They make ceramic muffler bearings now?? Next thing you know they'll invent synthetic blinker fluid!!!

 

Oh, yeah, they're coming up with new things all the time! I just installed a new, titanium johnson-rod in my 'vette last week!


Scott

 

lol, ok, so you were going by memory? alright, we forgive. I got out a paper and was starting to write it down and I said "hey wait..." lol