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Ok, here is a picture of cyl 1 bottom comp ring. It measured .17 gap.
Do I need to measure deeper in the cyl or shallower? I have a paper from an old chiltons that say they should be .10 -.21 what say you? Give me some feedback on this. Do I measure upper, lower and oil rings or just the comp rings?
BTW I finally got my own (was using a friends) copy of Vizards book today.
measure the ring at the top, especially on a worn motor since it's the tightest place
measure the 1st and 2nd rings, check (visually) the oil ring, but honestly, even if they butted against each other, it wouldn't cause any problem - they'd just ride one over the other..... with the 1st and 2nd, the ring would break if it were too tight.
dunno, what does you ring manufacturer say for gap? it's different depending on the material and the manufacturer but .17 would be plenty. Hastings says between .14 and .26 (optimal would be between the two at .20). That said, if you're going to put NOx on it or turbo charge it, you'd open up the gap, and for hp, the tightest you can run would be perfect (less blow by)...... still, .17 is a good number...
measure the ring at the top, especially on a worn motor since it's the tightest place
measure the 1st and 2nd rings, check (visually) the oil ring, but honestly, even if they butted against each other, it wouldn't cause any problem - they'd just ride one over the other..... with the 1st and 2nd, the ring would break if it were too tight.
dunno, what does you ring manufacturer say for gap? it's different depending on the material and the manufacturer but .17 would be plenty. Hastings says between .14 and .26 (optimal would be between the two at .20). That said, if you're going to put NOx on it or turbo charge it, you'd open up the gap, and for hp, the tightest you can run would be perfect (less blow by)...... still, .17 is a good number...
My biggest hole is 21 a 1/4" from the top, deeper down in the cyl, the gaps are all in the 19-16 range. Stab the cam in the morning, crank and pistons. I am really excited!! Prob can't sleep tonight.
Looks good. Be careful and pay attention to the ring orientation on the piston. The directions will tell you to look for dots or ring shape to install in the right order. Watch a YouTube video for tips and what not to do
Leave the cam shaft for now and start on the crank install. Cam shaft goes in last with the timing chain. You don't want the assembly lube catching any dirt on the cam while you're installing everything else
Looks good. Be careful and pay attention to the ring orientation on the piston. The directions will tell you to look for dots or ring shape to install in the right order. Watch a YouTube video for tips and what not to do
Leave the cam shaft for now and start on the crank install. Cam shaft goes in last with the timing chain. You don't want the assembly lube catching any dirt on the cam while you're installing everything else
this is purely preference - but I put the cam in first because it's easier to keep it from banging (as you can reach it from the bottom. However, I also rotate the motor so that the cylinder is perpendicular with the ground so that the rod can't swing into the cam while I'm putting it together.....
again, it's just a preference....
and while you are excited - the very first car motor I built was a Vega (I'm pretty special, eh?) and I put it together right, but presumed (this is hindsight, I had no idea) that the head was right and bolted it on. My car was 250 miles away, so I took the newly assembled motor to the car, installed it.... and it banged - sounded just like a rod knock, but it wasn't - talk about disappointed.... so be careful, you hear?
Stuck!
I cannot get the cam in the engine. I was having trouble and realized the #1 bearing had mushroomed when I put it in. Long story short, I went and got another set of bearings and replaced. This time no mushroom but the cam will still not go in. I took one of the extra bearings and tested it to see if it would go on the cam out of the block.
Anyone got a thought on this?
Stuck!
I cannot get the cam in the engine. I was having trouble and realized the #1 bearing had mushroomed when I put it in. Long story short, I went and got another set of bearings and replaced. This time no mushroom but the cam will still not go in. I took one of the extra bearings and tested it to see if it would go on the cam out of the block.
Anyone got a thought on this?
remember when I said that they machined the cam bearings in the block at the factory?
remember when I said that they machined the cam bearings in the block at the factory?
somehow hone them?
BIG THANKS! ronmaxxman came by and helped me out. Without a long story it was just nt working right but we got it. Just laid the crank in and got it torqued down....
Looks good....before you button it up completely you might want to find TDC on #1, slip the balancer onto the crank hub and make sure it lines up with the mark on your timing tab...if not put a paint mark on that thing so you can see EXACTLY where it is.
I also have muy bueno method of installing oil pan gasquettes when you get to that part too...nice work so far broddah!!
Lookin very nice!!! How does it spin? You should have a nice even drag all the way around. I would say it should take about 30lbs of torque to spin the crank and pistons in the short block. Make sure you keep a coating of oil on the cylinder walls. You don't want any rust forming
That blue almost looks like the Oldsmobile 455 blue. It will look awesome with a nice set of aluminum heads
Lookin very nice!!! How does it spin? You should have a nice even drag all the way around. I would say it should take about 30lbs of torque to spin the crank and pistons in the short block. Make sure you keep a coating of oil on the cylinder walls. You don't want any rust forming
That blue almost looks like the Oldsmobile 455 blue. It will look awesome with a nice set of aluminum heads
Thanks! I had hand surgery last Jan, so my hand strength isn't enough to really spin it at this point and I read somewhere you really shouldn't use the balancer to spin them only the flywheel. Any recomendations on this..
Looks good....before you button it up completely you might want to find TDC on #1, slip the balancer onto the crank hub and make sure it lines up with the mark on your timing tab...if not put a paint mark on that thing so you can see EXACTLY where it is.
I also have muy bueno method of installing oil pan gasquettes when you get to that part too...nice work so far broddah!!
I know you can't see it in this photo but it is setting at TDC. I am glad you brought up the balancer, mine seemed to have slipped so I need a new one and will have to go pick one up at Oreilly's unless you guys state otherwise on what I should get.
I did set the pan up there and the gasket really doesn't seem right the way it fits...I read in Vizard's book there are actually two types of pans, one early modle and one older. Do they use different gaskets?
I know you can't see it in this photo but it is setting at TDC. I am glad you brought up the balancer, mine seemed to have slipped so I need a new one and will have to go pick one up at Oreilly's unless you guys state otherwise on what I should get.
I did set the pan up there and the gasket really doesn't seem right the way it fits...I read in Vizard's book there are actually two types of pans, one early modle and one older. Do they use different gaskets?
Been watching the thread with great interest.
Go with a one piece gasket. You will need longer oil pan bolts and then torque to spec.