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Ugh! This is the first I have heard about scoring the heads.
I am going to paint the timing line just haven't got to it yet.
Back to the heads, I scuffed the block surface, put sealer around the water jackets and put the heads on. I sure hope you aren't getting ready to tell me I have to pull them and get new gaskets! Ha!
You got to admit that is funny stuff right there. Haha
what makes that extra funny is in real life people take me too seriously - and I'm just terrible..... I tend to get them to do/believe things that, upon reflection, defy belief. An example, I sent a kid to the store to buy high-flow battery cables...
he came back, couldn't find them (shocking huh?)
So I sent him back for a cable balancer. See I had 2 cables running to the starter, and I couldn't have one cable carrying more electricity than the other.... so I needed a cable balancer..... drove 10 miles, twice, before he googled on his phone either of those items.
what makes that extra funny is in real life people take me too seriously - and I'm just terrible..... I tend to get them to do/believe things that, upon reflection, defy belief. An example, I sent a kid to the store to buy high-flow battery cables...
he came back, couldn't find them (shocking huh?)
So I sent him back for a cable balancer. See I had 2 cables running to the starter, and I couldn't have one cable carrying more electricity than the other.... so I needed a cable balancer..... drove 10 miles, twice, before he googled on his phone either of those items.
He got it after the second trip
DANG, and you wonder why lawers have a bad rep-----
but, I've been known to send helpers down 5 fights of stairs before to get a set of "sky hooks", that was funny as all---Until--- he ran into the foreman and told him what he was looking for.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Originally Posted by SuperBuickGuy
what makes that extra funny is in real life people take me too seriously - and I'm just terrible..... I tend to get them to do/believe things that, upon reflection, defy belief. An example, I sent a kid to the store to buy high-flow battery cables...
he came back, couldn't find them (shocking huh?)
So I sent him back for a cable balancer. See I had 2 cables running to the starter, and I couldn't have one cable carrying more electricity than the other.... so I needed a cable balancer..... drove 10 miles, twice, before he googled on his phone either of those items.
He got it after the second trip
There are battery cables capable of handling more ( amperage ) which by the way is not a real word, it would be like saying you need more "ohmage" instead of more resistance.
The proper term is handling more "current" or "power" so I would have come back biggest wire and most expensive cables they had in the store. So they would be capable of handling current which you could say higher flow of electrons through the cable, so they would be high flow battery cables. Only joking around here
My first job while I was in high school was in a newspaper printing room and if a new guy came in the first order he got was to run downstairs and get a bucket of "periods" because we were running out, then he would be told to get the paper stretcher because we didn't have enough paper.
So, I am attempting to adjust my valves. #1 @ TDC exhaust valve worked fine. I twisted back and forth until it grabbed then went another 1/2 turn. The intake valve, not doing the same. I dd the same process but the push rod will not tighten snug enough to stop. Any suggestions guys?
did you turn the motor so the cam had the lifter you're working on at full lift? also, I THINK I remember reading somewhere that the lift (hydraulic) should be soaked in motor oil for a while before installing them, they normally have oil in them when the motor is running. at least I think you're supposed to soak them.
did you turn the motor so the cam had the lifter you're working on at full lift? also, I THINK I remember reading somewhere that the lift (hydraulic) should be soaked in motor oil for a while before installing them, they normally have oil in them when the motor is running. at least I think you're supposed to soak them.
I have the piston at TDC with both valves closed. I did not soak them in oil but just used a lot of assembly lube on them. There seems to be some different opinions on the need to soak them.
Twisting them back and forth untill they bind a little then tighten 1/2 turn is going to get you way to tight and when you start it you will either bend pushrods, pull rocker studs, immedietly wipe your cam and lifters, or break rocker arms.
You loosen everything. When the lifter is on the base circle of the cam you jiggle the pushrod up and down, tightening the rocker nut until the play is just taken up. Then 1/2 turn and don't touch it.
The only real change was the cam that would effect them I would think and it was pretty mild upgrade but maybe I should check that out.
I probably misunderstood but I was thinking the rod should not be able to move once tightened. Can u give me an idea how the rod should feel when done?
The only real change was the cam that would effect them I would think and it was pretty mild upgrade but maybe I should check that out.
I probably misunderstood but I was thinking the rod should not be able to move once tightened. Can u give me an idea how the rod should feel when done?
The only real change was the cam that would effect them I would think and it was pretty mild upgrade but maybe I should check that out.
I probably misunderstood but I was thinking the rod should not be able to move once tightened. Can u give me an idea how the rod should feel when done?
The camshaft won't have any effect on how long the pushrods need to be. But, you have installed aftermarket heads, so now we have an unknown variable when it comes to valvetrain geometry. From what I have read, aftermarket aluminum heads typically need a longer than stock pushrod. You will have to do some learning about valvetrain geometry to really understand what is going on here. When you tighten down the rocker arms, all you are doing is taking up the lash in the valvetrain, it's the pushrod length that establishes proper valvetrain geometry. Think of it this way: the rocker arm has to be in a certain position in order to be able to push straight down on the valve stem, and the pushrod needs to be the right length to reach from the lifter to the rocker arm when the rocker arm is in this position. A pushrod that is shorter or longer than ideal will impart a side load onto the valvestem, which will quickly wear out the valve guide. Then the valve is able to move around, and it beats the hell out of the valveseat, and your valves don't seal anymore. Don't take shortcuts on this issue, it's important enough to take the time and effort to do it right.
The camshaft won't have any effect on how long the pushrods need to be. But, you have installed aftermarket heads, so now we have an unknown variable when it comes to valvetrain geometry. From what I have read, aftermarket aluminum heads typically need a longer than stock pushrod. You will have to do some learning about valvetrain geometry to really understand what is going on here. When you tighten down the rocker arms, all you are doing is taking up the lash in the valvetrain, it's the pushrod length that establishes proper valvetrain geometry. Think of it this way: the rocker arm has to be in a certain position in order to be able to push straight down on the valve stem, and the pushrod needs to be the right length to reach from the lifter to the rocker arm when the rocker arm is in this position. A pushrod that is shorter or longer than ideal will imkpart a side load onto the valvestem, which will quickly wear out the valve guide. Then the valve is able to move around, and it beats the hell out of the valveseat, and your valves don't seal anymore. Don't take shortcuts on this issue, it's important enough to take the time and effort to do it right.
Scott
That makes perfect sense to me. Thanks! Where would I find the info and how do you properly measure the rod?
The camshaft won't have any effect on how long the pushrods need to be. But, you have installed aftermarket heads, so now we have an unknown variable when it comes to valvetrain geometry. From what I have read, aftermarket aluminum heads typically need a longer than stock pushrod. You will have to do some learning about valvetrain geometry to really understand what is going on here. When you tighten down the rocker arms, all you are doing is taking up the lash in the valvetrain, it's the pushrod length that establishes proper valvetrain geometry. Think of it this way: the rocker arm has to be in a certain position in order to be able to push straight down on the valve stem, and the pushrod needs to be the right length to reach from the lifter to the rocker arm when the rocker arm is in this position. A pushrod that is shorter or longer than ideal will impart a side load onto the valvestem, which will quickly wear out the valve guide. Then the valve is able to move around, and it beats the hell out of the valveseat, and your valves don't seal anymore. Don't take shortcuts on this issue, it's important enough to take the time and effort to do it right.
Scott
assuming he is/was truly at TDC, since the one nut tightened down and he was able to remove all the lash out of the intake valve, isn't it safe to say the pushrods are long enough?
In my discussion with Birdsmith, once at TDC you have to turn the crank approx 150* more for the adjustment after that you are a 90* crank turn for the next one to adjust in firing order. I did not correctly understand "lash" as being movement up and down and was thinking it was rotation as it pertains to the push rod.