Hahaha! I distinctly remembered you saying that (about the cam and lifters) but it was a brain fart and I dropped the piston and it broke. I am keeping the "shiny side up" though.

 

I don't suppose you can just replace 1 piston? Anyone?

 

thinking the same thing about the piston, did it fall and break? gotta see those bearings anyway to just to be certain since you got the engine out of the car.

 

Yes I dropped it! :-)

 

Here ya go:

http://www.northernautoparts.com/Pro...uctModelId=380


Keep the shiny side up!
Scott

 

That's what you tell the wife, don't lie to us. It was dropped on purpose, we know you wanted to buy some new one's, like what Scott sent you the link to.

 

Are they better than what I already had? I was so *@#^ when I did that! I just hope this doesn't make it even more difficult for me to do. Referaing to having to put the pistons together now....

 

HAHAHAHA! I guess someone better tell me how to measure main bearing, pistons, rings and rod bearing sizes.
There sure is a lot of little stuff in that package!

 

Yep, you can..... you can even replace 1 ring (do NOT ask me why I know this)

I bit of caution - you said "it looks good" as bearing measurements are measured in .0001 and your eyeball can do, at best, .03124 (1/32).... you've a ways to go before you can use the term "looks good."

Bearings can be reused if you keep them in order; but you still need to check their dimensions before you make that determination (plastic gauge)...

Also, measure your pistons to verify roundness and wear.... another, don't ask me why I know this *&(*&^^!!! Vega motor

 

I understand plastic guage but how do you measure pistons? I am just looking at not seeing the brass on the bearings. I won't ask how you know, we can leave the knowledge you have as it is! You are just really smart.

 

You need to slow down and get your Vizard book first. You might be able to buy 1 piston that matches your but it needs to weigh the same or your balance will be off. At this point your extra cost which may not have been needed because your getting ahead of your learning curve are camshaft, lifters, new pistons, removing and replacing pistons on rods (likely press fit, this is done at a machine shop), Rebalancing rotating assembly because pistons are being changed out. Hopefully you stamped numbers on the main caps, rod caps and rods so everything goes back as it came out. The above parts and labor are about $800 minimum to $1000 or more that may not have needed to be spent (There is your entire original budget). Slow down, be careful!. You need micrometers and bore guages to measure with and accurate torque wrenches. Your best bet is to find a good machine shop that will work with you to do measurements, hot tank, magnaflux block and heads, reinstall piston or pistons on rods after determining if you need to rebore and get bigger pistons. If so, and your already .030 over you need to sonic check the block, bore (if needed, likely) and torque plate hone, remove and install cam bearings, polish or turn crank, order correct size bearings, rebuild heads, check and recondition rod big ends if needed. Balance rotating assembly. This is more involved than you would think. The above steps have to be done at this point. I would have likely checked bearings one at a tiime and retorqued and checked for a ridge at the top of the cylinder and fresh crosshatch marks. If it all looked good the short block would have never come apart. Replace cam, lifters, timing set rebuild heads and regasket it. Could have done that for <$1000. Now you over $2000 easily, likely closer to $3000. SLOW DOWN!

 

Well, none of them are broken, so, yeah, they're better. A lot better!

If you go onto the linik I provided, you'll see that there are options that you can check off. One of them is flat-top, hypereutectic, 1.560" compression height pistons. I think those are the ones you will want. They are what I would get.

OK, let's start keeping score: So far, we have destroyed a piston through carelessness, and ruined what was most likely a perfectly servicable, already broken-in cam and lifter set, also though carelessness. Am I the only one starting to see a pattern here?

Try to be more careful! What's done is done, spilled milk, learn from your mistakes, blah, blah, blah........


Keep the shiny side up!
Scott

 

OK! OK! I think I will just clean on the engine compartment for a while.
The good news is I work for a shop and send alot of work to a machine shop, I do have a guy who might help me out of the bind I am in. I don't like to discuss my project at work because my boss thinks it means I am not focused at work and the guys I work with really don't like to talk shop after hours.

 

 

I'm going to go back to my broken record saying.... plan what you want, then work that plan. At this point, you've learned several things of what to do and what not to do when disassembling an engine...

Still

there is no law that says this motor must go back into your Corvette, nor is there one that says you cannot rebuild the one that is not going back in your Corvette.

And

It's always best to rebuild your buddy's motor so you can learn what not to do when HE is stranded beside the road.

last of all

it's a 350 Chevrolet - Starbucks sells parts for them with your morning espresso (okay, maybe I'm exaggerating a bit.... but still, the parts are plentiful and cheap)

 

Ya know, Fatcat, you are really starting to remind me of myself about 30 years ago. And that's not a compliment.......for either of us!

Take a break from the engine for awhile. Clean and paint your engine compartment. Go slow and be careful not to wreck anything in the engine compartment. Don't laugh, there are brake lines, wiring, suspension components, some of which can be delicate, so take it easy. Don't be too hard on yourself, we are moving forward, not dwelling on the past, but still learning from our mistakes, got it?


Keep the shiny side up!
Scott

 

I am starting to thinking the ole boy on CL selling rebuilt engins for 1300 may be a good option now!
http://tulsa.craigslist.org/pts/3309249298.html

 

Yuup! I have had to keep myself really calm right now, I realized when that piston fell out of the cylinder I had made a critical error... It's all good though, I didn't realize I was moving too fast but now I do. Believe me though, I have made some bigger mistakes in life than that so I am gooood!!!

 

hmmmm... I dunno - he's saying "all new parts" but "need core".... why would he need a core if it's all new parts? it could be a good price, or a waste of money - no way to tell from his ad -given that Craigslist is free, and that he could have put the list of what you're buying so you can check prices and quality before you go hear his slick sales pitch; the warning alarms are going off.

oh they're (mods) going to hate me, but there's a GM performance motor from Jegs that costs $1,500 and is completely a brand-new motor. It comes with 76 cc heads, so you swap to vortec heads and you'll raise the compression to happy land; add a cam and you have a brand new motor... sell the brand new heads on Craigslist and the cost would be a wash. Chevrolet Performance 10067353 - GM Goodwrench 350ci/260HP Engine & Packages

And I would spend $200 more for a motor from a company I trust and has a warranty every time. Oh yeah, and currently with free shipping

Still

5.3, junkyard motor would be comparable..... and you'll learn how to install a different (but not too different) motor.

 

Ha! I was way ahead of you here, SBG! Seriously, though, it's a pretty good deal, You could just bolt it in, scavenge a few parts off the old engine, like the intake, carb, distributor, and drive it that way for the next year or two while you take your time and build a real engine!


Keep the shiny side up!
Scott